第 31 节
作者:双曲线      更新:2022-04-14 11:08      字数:9322
  forts upon as many points which now exist would render Famagousta
  impregnable; should the present works be repaired; and improved by some
  slight modifications。
  I had been through the fortifications upon a former occasion; when I had
  the advantage of Captain Inglis the chief commissioner's guidance; but
  they are so extensive and of such exceeding interest that many days
  might be expended in a study of the details。
  Upon entering the fortress by the drawbridge we passed through the
  arched and dark way beneath the ramparts; and emerged into a narrow
  street; which was swept and free from the usual impurities of a Turkish
  town; thus exhibiting proofs of a British occupation。 A perfect
  labyrinth of narrow lanes; bordered by most inferior dwellings; confused
  a stranger; but with the assistance of a guide I reached the residence
  of the chief commissioner and the various officers attached to the
  establishment。 Beyond this all modern buildings ceased; and Famagousta
  was presented as it must have appeared after the sack and utter
  destruction by the Turks in 1571。 It looked as though a town had been
  shattered and utterly destroyed by an earth…quake; whose terrible
  tremblings had shaken every house to its foundation; and left nothing
  but shapeless heaps of squared stones。 O Turk! insatiable in
  destruction; who breaks down; but never restores; what a picture of
  desolation was here! Three centuries had passed away since by treachery
  the place was won; and from that hour the neglected harbour had silted
  up and ceased to be; the stones of palaces rested where they fell; the
  filth of ages sweltered among these blood…sodden ruins; and the proverb
  seemed fulfilled; 〃The grass never grows on the foot…print of the Turk。〃
  I never saw so fearful an example of ruin。
  Although the town was in this hideous state; the fortifications were in
  very tolerable repair; and had guns been mounted an enemy would quickly
  have acknowledged their formidable importance。 Time appeared to be
  almost harmless in attacks against these vast piles of solid masonry。
  The parapets in the angles of the embrasures were twenty…five and
  twenty…seven feet in thickness。 From these we looked down forty…five and
  fifty feet into the ditch beneath。 As we walked round the ramparts and
  various bastions we remarked the enormous strength of the commanding
  cavaliers to which I alluded from the outside appearance of the forts。
  There were also vast subterranean works; store…houses; magazines;
  cannon…foundries; and all the appliances of a first…class fortified town
  and arsenal; but these were of course empty; and with the exception of a
  small chamber near the water…gate; which contained a number of rusty
  helmets and breastplates; there was no object of interest beyond the
  actual plan of the defences。
  The water…gate was approached by a winding entrance beneath a powerful
  circular bastion from an extremely narrow quay; from which the remains
  of a once powerful mote projected about 120 yards into the sea and
  commanded the inner harbour。 This was now a mere line of loose and
  disjointed stones。 A citadel that is separated from the main fortress by
  a wet ditch which communicates with the sea by an adit beneath the wall
  commands the harbour on the east side。 This ditch is as usual scarped
  from the rock; and otherwise of solid masonry; should the fortress have
  been successfully carried by assault on the land side; a vigorous
  defence might have been maintained in this independent citadel until
  either reinforcements should arrive by sea; or an escape might be
  effected to friendly vessels。
  It is commonly asserted that Famagousta under the Lusignans and
  Venetians 〃counted its churches by hundreds and its palatial mansions by
  thousands。〃 It would certainly have been impossible that they could have
  existed within the present area; as a large extent must have been
  required for barrack accommodation for the garrison; parade…grounds; &c。
  There are ruins of several fine churches with the frescoes still visible
  upon the walls。 The Cathedral of St。 Nicholas is a beautiful object in
  the Gothic style。 Although dismantled and converted into a mosque by the
  Turks; the roof is in good repair; and its magnificent proportions
  remain; but they are marred by the stopping of the windows with rough
  stones and mortar。 The total length of the cathedral is 172 feet 6。5
  inches。 Length of apse (included in above) 30 feet 9 inches; breadth of
  apse 32 feet 3 inches; breadth of cathedral 74 feet 1 inch;
  circumference of pillars 15 feet 3 inches; there being 12 pillars in
  all。
  On the outside walls are the marks of various cannon…shot which appear
  to have been successfully resisted by the soft but tough sedimentary
  limestone; which is of similar quality to that used in the construction
  of the fortress。 I observed that the impact of the shot has been
  confined to the immediate neighbourhood of the blow; and that the
  concussion has not been communicated to the adjoining stone; but has
  expended itself in crumbling the opposing surface to the depth in which
  it was eventually imbedded。 It would be interesting to try some
  experiments upon those walls of Famagousta (which may already require
  repair or alteration) with modern heavy artillery; as should this stone
  exhibit unusual powers of resistance it may become valuable。 Nothing
  would be easier than to fire a few rounds from a ship's battery to prove
  the question。
  The courtyard of an ancient Venetian palace now forms the British
  parade…ground。 This faces the cathedral entrance; and is ornamented by
  piles of marble cannon…shot; which are upwards of ten inches in
  diameter; these were the Venetian relics of the siege of 1571。
  From Cape Greco to Cape Elaea; south to north; is about twenty…five
  miles; these points form the bay; nine miles in extreme width。 Although
  open to the east and south…east; Famagousta is the only real harbour in
  Cyprus that can be available for large vessels; and there can be no
  doubt that a very moderate outlay would not only restore its ancient
  importance; but would make those additions of modern times that are
  required for a first…rate and impregnable coaling…station and arsenal。
  It was blowing a fresh gale from the south…east when I was standing on
  the ramparts facing the sea above the water…gate; and an admirable
  example was displayed in the wave…breaking power of the long line of
  sunken reefs which form a continuation of those natural breakwaters
  above the surface that have formed the harbour。 A tremendous surf
  exhibited a creamy streak along the margin of comparatively still water
  within the reefs for about a mile parallel with the shore; comprising an
  area of about 700 yards' width at the extremity of the sunken rocks; and
  500 from the existing breakwater exactly opposite the water…gate。
  Within this secure haven several native vessels were snugly at anchor;
  but ships of war would hardly venture among the varying shallows caused
  by centuries of silt; such large vessels generally anchor in seventeen
  fathoms about a mile from the shore; but they are completely exposed to
  wind from east and south…east。 The inner harbour is formed by the
  artificial connection of raised heads of projecting reefs by stone
  jetties。 At right angles with this complete defence of limestone rock is
  a wall or jetty from the shore; which for a distance of 170 yards
  incloses the basin of perfectly still water within。 The entrance to this
  snug little port is about forty yards in width; and the depth is most
  irregular; varying from dry silt close to the south end of the reefs up
  to twelve feet beneath the walls of the fortress。 There were many small
  coasting…vessels and caiques which trade between the various ports of
  Syria and Asia Minor; all having sought shelter from the bad weather
  within the port; and the picture presented during the strong gale was
  thoroughly illustrative of the natural advantages and the future
  requirements of the harbour。 The long line of reefs which form the outer
  protection would; were they exposed in their whole length; represent an
  irregular incline from about twelve feet above the sea level at the
  southern end to three fathoms below water at the northern extremity。 A
  wedge laid with its broad base to the south would represent the
  inclination of this long line of useful reef; which can be converted
  into a sea…wall by simply filling…in with blocks of concrete to a
  sufficient height above the extreme water…mark。 The ancient jetty which
  connects the small islands that form the northern head of the reef is in
  itself an example of the necessity of such an extension throughout the
  line。 A natural headland terminating in disconnected rocks upon the
  north boundary of the reef about half a mile above the fortress is a
  secure protection from the sea; but it admits the silt。 This has
  completely filled in a considerable portion of the original harbour; and
  were this sea…communication destroyed by connecting the various reefs
  with the main headland; the evil would be at once prevented; and the
  inclosed area might be cleansed by dredging。 This would not only add to
  the accommodation of the inner harbour by a considerable extension; but
  it would a