第 30 节
作者:双曲线      更新:2022-04-14 11:08      字数:9322
  against a search for antiquities in Cyprus had destroyed the interest
  which would otherwise have been taken by travellers in such
  explorations。 As I have before remarked; there are no remains to attract
  attention upon the surface; but all ancient works are buried far
  beneath; therefore in the absence of permission to excavate; the
  practical study of the past is impossible; and it is a sealed book。
  Fortunately General di Cesnola has published his most interesting
  volume; combining historical sketches of ancient times with a minute
  description of the enormous collection of antiquities which rewarded his
  labours during ten years' research; so that if our government will
  neither explore nor permit others to investigate; we have at least an
  invaluable fund of information collected by those whose consular
  position during the Turkish rule enabled them to make additions to our
  historical knowledge。 Mr。 Hamilton Lang has also published his
  experiences of a long residence in the island; during which his
  successful excavations brought to light valuable relics of the past
  which explain more forcibly than the leaves of a book the manners;
  customs; and incidents among the various races which have made up
  Cyprian history。 General di Cesnola; after quoting the legend which
  connects the origin of Salamis with the arrival of a colony of Greeks
  under Teucer (the son of Telamon; king of the island of Salamis) from
  the Trojan expedition; continues; 〃Of the history of Salamis almost
  nothing is known till we come to the time of the Persian wars; but from
  that time down to the reign of the Ptolemies it was by far the most
  conspicuous and flourishing of the towns of Cyprus。〃 〃Onesius seized the
  government of Salamis from his brother; Gorgus; and set up an obstinate
  resistance to the Persian oppression under which the island was
  labouring; about 500 B。C。 In the end he was defeated by a Persian army
  and fell in battle; and it was about this time; if not in consequence of
  this defeat; that the dynasty of Teucer was; for a period; removed from
  the government of Salamis。 As to the length of this period there is
  great obscurity。 It seems; however; to be certain that with the help of
  the Persians a Tyrian named Abdemon had seized the throne; and not only
  paid tribute to Persia; but endeavoured to extend the Persian power over
  the rest of the island。 To Salamis itself he invited Phoenician
  immigrants; and introduced Asiatic tastes and habits。〃 Following upon
  this usurpation came the revolt and the restoration of the Teucer
  dynasty; under Evagoras; B。C。 374; and eventually upon the partition of
  the empire of Alexander the Great it fell to the lot of Antigonus; after
  the severe contests between Demetrius and Menelaus。
  Like all ancient sea…ports of importance; Salamis was the object of
  continual attacks; and by degrees its prosperity declined。 In addition
  to the damage and loss by sieges; it was seriously affected by an
  earthquake; and a portion disappeared beneath the sea。 The sand has
  submerged a large area of the ruins which face the sea; but General di
  Cesnola was able to trace the ancient wall for a distance of 6850 feet。
  It is quite possible that the earthquake may have altered the conditions
  of the harbour; which in former days was of considerable importance。 It
  has now entirely changed; and the bay near the shore is extremely
  shallow; although good anchorage exists in the roadstead in ten to
  sixteen fathoms。
  The high masonry piers which had supported the arches of the ancient
  aqueduct from Kythrea looked like spectres of past greatness among the
  silent ruins; made doubly desolate by the miserable aspect of the
  withered plain around them。 A short distance from these is the church of
  St。 Barnabas; raised upon the site where it is believed that the body of
  the Saint was discovered; together with the Gospel of St。 Matthew。 How
  the Saint and the Gospel had been preserved in the damp soil of that
  neighbourhood must be left to the imagination。
  Passing through the ruins of the old town with the line of the wall
  distinctly visible upon the sea front; we shortly arrived at the spot
  where the river Pedias should have an exit to the sea。 No sign of a
  river…bed existed; but a long series of swamps; composed chiefly of
  bare mud; would during wet weather have made a considerable detour
  necessary; they were now dry; with the exception of two or three holes
  full of muddy water; which were unconnected with any perceptible
  channel。 A long stone causeway proved that occasionally the hardened mud
  upon which we rode would become a lake; but from the numerous tracks of
  animals the earth was preferred to the uneven and slippery pavement of
  the artificial road。 The enormous quantity of mud brought down by the
  Pedias during its fitful inundations had completely obliterated all
  signs of an ordinary river…bed; and the deposit had produced a surface
  that was scored in numerous places by the rush of water; without in any
  way suggesting that we were in the neighbourhood of the largest river in
  Cyprus。 The width of this muddy swamp was about two miles; and
  terminated by a shallow lake upon our left。 We were now within a mile
  and a quarter of Famagousta; and the ground began to rise。 It struck me
  that an eminence upon our right was superior to the height of the city
  walls; and I rode up to examine the position。 There was no doubt that it
  commanded the lower portion of the fortress; and that a direct shell…
  fire could be plunged into the rear of the guns which protect the
  entrance of the harbour。 In the event of modifications being introduced
  when restoring the defensive works of Famagousta; it would be necessary
  to erect a powerful detached fort upon this position; which would be an
  immense addition to the defences of the city; as it would enfilade the
  approaches upon two sides。
  The walls of Famagousta are most imposing; they are constructed of
  carefully…squared stone joined with cement of such extreme hardness that
  the weather has had no destructive effect。 The perimeter of the fortress
  is about 4000 yards; the shape is nearly a parallelogram。 The fosse
  varies in depth and width; but the minimum of the former is twenty…five
  feet; and of the width eighty feet; but in some places it exceeds one
  hundred and forty。 This formidable ditch is cut out of the solid rock;
  which is the usual calcareous sedimentary limestone; and the stone thus
  obtained has been used in the construction of the walls。 The rock
  foundation would render all mining operations extremely difficult。 The
  fire from the ramparts is increased by cavaliers of great size and
  strength; capable of mounting numerous heavy guns at a superior
  altitude。 The only entrance from the land side is at the south…west
  corner; this is exceedingly striking; as the fosse is about 140 feet
  wide; the scarp and counter…scarp almost perpendicular; being cut from
  the original rock。
  A narrow stone bridge upon arches spans this peculiar ditch; the
  communication depending upon a double drawbridge and portcullis。
  Immediately facing the entrance outside the fortress is an old Turkish
  churchyard; through and above which the closed masonry aqueduct is
  conducted into the town。 Following the course of the aqueduct along a
  straight line of sandy heights which somewhat resemble a massive railway
  embankment; we arrived at a mosque in which is the venerated tomb of the
  Turkish soldier who first planted the flag upon the walls of Famagousta
  when captured; in 1571; from the Venetians。 This tomb is in a small
  chamber within the building and is covered with green silk; embroidered;
  but as the city was never taken by assault; and capitulated upon
  honourable terms after a protracted defence; the fact of establishing
  the Turkish flag upon the walls after their evacuation by the garrison
  would hardly have entitled the standard…bearer to a Victoria Cross;
  however he may have otherwise distinguished himself; which entailed
  post…mortem honours; perhaps by skinning alive the gallant Venetian
  commandant Bragadino; whose skin; stuffed with straw; was taken in
  triumph to Constantinople hanging at the yard…arm of the victorious
  general's ship。
  Quitting the mosque; we continued along the aqueduct; always upon the
  same sandy heights; which gradually increased; until we arrived at a
  position about 200 yards from a windmill。 This formed a prominent object
  at the back of the large village of Varoschia; situated upon the slope
  beneath facing the sea; about a quarter of a mile distant。 I selected
  the highest position for a camp; this was close to the aqueduct and
  about 600 yards from the entrance of the fortress。 I counted the
  embrasures of six guns that could have been brought to bear exactly upon
  our tent; but at the same time I remarked that we commanded the lower
  portion of the fortress; and could fire into the rear of the batteries
  upon the sea…wall within the water…gate at a most destructive range。
  This position would require a detached fort with a line of works along
  the heights flanked by a small fort at the extremity。 Three detached
  forts upon as many points which now exist would render Famagousta
  impregnable; should the present works be repai