第 1 节
作者:双曲线      更新:2021-04-30 17:21      字数:9321
  THE MOUNTAINS
  THE MOUNTAINS
  BY STEWART EDWARD WHITE
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  THE MOUNTAINS
  PREFACE
  The author has followed a true sequence of events practically in all
  particulars save in respect to the character of the Tenderfoot。           He is in one
  sense    fictitious;  in  another   sense   real。   He    is  real  in  that  he  is  the
  apotheosis     of   many    tenderfeet;   and   that  everything     he  does    in  this
  narrative   he   has   done   at   one   time   or   another   in   the   author's   experience。
  He is fictitious in the sense that he is in no way to be identified with the
  third member of our party in the actual trip。
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  THE MOUNTAINS
  I
  THE RIDGE TRAIL
  Six trails lead to the main ridge。        They are all good trails; so that even
  the casual tourist in the little Spanish…American town on the seacoast need
  have nothing to fear from the ascent。            In some spots they contract to an
  arm's    length   of   space;   outside   of  which    limit   they  drop    sheer   away;
  elsewhere they stand up on end; zigzag in lacets each more hair… raising
  than the last; or fill to demoralization with loose boulders and shale。                  A
  fall on the part of your horse would mean a more than serious accident;
  but   Western     horses   do   not  fall。  The    major    premise    stands:   even   the
  casual tourist has no real reason for fear; however scared he may become。
  Our   favorite   route   to   the   main   ridge   was   by   a   way   called   the   Cold
  Spring Trail。      We used to enjoy taking visitors up it; mainly because you
  come on the top suddenly; without warning。               Then we collected remarks。
  Everybody; even the most stolid; said something。
  You    rode   three   miles   on   the  flat;  two  in  the   leafy  and   gradually
  ascending creek…bed of a canon; a half
  hour of laboring steepness in the overarching mountain lilac and laurel。
  There   you   came   to   a   great   rock   gateway   which   seemed   the   top   of   the
  world。     At the gateway was a Bad Place where the ponies planted warily
  their little hoofs; and the visitor played 〃eyes front;〃 and besought that his
  mount should not stumble。
  Beyond the gateway a lush level canon into which you plunged as into
  a   bath;   then   again   the   laboring   trail;   up   and   always   up   toward   the   blue
  California sky; out of the lilacs;  and laurels; and redwood chaparral   into
  the   manzanita;     the   Spanish    bayonet;    the  creamy     yucca;    and   the  fine
  angular   shale   of   the   upper   regions。   Beyond   the   apparent   summit   you
  found   always   other   summits   yet   to   be   climbed。     And   all   at   once;   like
  thrusting your shoulders out of a hatchway; you looked over the top。
  Then     came     the    remarks。      Some       swore    softly;    some    uttered
  appreciative      ejaculation;   some    shouted     aloud;   some    gasped;    one   man
  uttered    three   times    the  word     〃Oh;〃once     breathlessly;    Oh!    once   in
  awakening       appreciation;     OH!     once    in  wild    enthusiasm;     OH!     Then
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  invariably they fell silent and looked。
  For the ridge; ascending from seaward in a gradual coquetry of foot…
  hills;   broad   low   ranges;    cross…systems;     canons;    little  flats;  and  gentle
  ravines;   inland   dropped   off   almost   sheer   to   the   river   below。 And   from
  under your very feet rose; range after range; tier after tier; rank after rank;
  in increasing crescendo of wonderful tinted mountains to the main crest of
  the Coast Ranges; the blue distance; the mightiness of California's western
  systems。      The eye followed them up and up; and farther and farther; with
  the accumulating emotion of a wild rush on a toboggan。                    There came a
  point where the fact grew to be almost too big for the appreciation; just as
  beyond   a   certain   point   speed   seems   to   become   unbearable。      It   left   you
  breathless; wonder…stricken; awed。            You could do nothing but look; and
  look; and look again; tongue… tied by the impossibility of doing justice to
  what you felt。      And in the far distance; finally; your soul; grown big in a
  moment;   came   to   rest   on   the   great   precipices   and   pines   of   the   greatest
  mountains of all; close under the sky。
  In   a   little;   after   the   change   had   come   to   you;   a   change   definite   and
  enduring; which left your inner processes forever different from what they
  had been; you turned sharp to the west and rode five miles along the knife…
  edge Ridge Trail to where Rattlesnake Canon led you down and back to
  your accustomed environment。
  To the left as you rode you saw; far on the horizon; rising to the height
  of   your    eye;  the   mountains     of   the  channel    islands。    Then     the   deep
  sapphire of the Pacific; fringed with the soft; unchanging white of the surf
  and the yellow of the shore。         Then the town like a little map; and the lush
  greens of the wide meadows; the fruit…groves; the lesser ranges all vivid;
  fertile; brilliant; and pulsating with vitality。        You filled your senses with it;
  steeped them in the beauty of it。         And at once; by a mere turn of the eyes;
  from the almost crude insistence of the bright primary color of life; you
  faced the tenuous azures of distance; the delicate mauves and amethysts;
  the lilacs and saffrons of the arid country。
  This    was   the   wonder     we   never   tired   of  seeing    for  ourselves;    of
  showing to others。        And often; academically; perhaps a little wistfully; as
  one talks of something to be dreamed of but never enjoyed; we spoke of
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  THE MOUNTAINS
  how     fine   it  would    be   to  ride   down     into  that   land   of   mystery    and
  enchantment; to penetrate one after another the canons dimly outlined in
  the   shadows      cast  by   the  westering     sun;   to  cross   the  mountains      lying
  outspread in easy grasp of the eye; to gain the distant blue Ridge; and see
  with our own eyes what lay beyond。
  For to its other attractions the prospect added that of impossibility; of
  unattainableness。        These   rides   of   ours   were   day   rides。  We   had   to   get
  home   by   nightfall。     Our   horses   had   to   be   fed;   ourselves   to   be   housed。
  We had not time to continue on down the other side whither the trail led。
  At the very and literal brink of achievement we were forced to turn back。
  Gradually the idea possessed us。             We promised ourselves that some
  day    we    would    explore。     In   our   after…dinner    smokes     we   spoke    of  it。
  Occasionally; from some hunter or forest…ranger; we gained little items of
  information; we learned the fascination of musical namesMono Canon;
  Patrera   Don   Victor;   Lloma   Paloma;   Patrera   Madulce;   Cuyamas;   became
  familiar   to   us   as   syllables。  We   desired   mightily   to   body   them   forth   to
  ourselves as facts。       The extent of our mental vision expanded。              We heard
  of   other   mountains   far   beyond   these   farthestmountains   whose   almost
  unexplored       vastnesses    contained     great   forests;   mighty     valleys;   strong
  water…courses; beautiful hanging…meadows; deep canons of granite; eternal
  snows;mountains   so   extended;   so   wonderful;   that   their   secrets   offered
  whole summers of solitary exploration。              We came to feel their marvel; we
  came to respect the inferno of the Desert that hemmed them in。                      Shortly
  we graduated from the indefiniteness of railroad maps to the intricacies of
  geological survey charts。         The fever was on us。         We must go。
  A dozen of us desired。          Three of us went; and of the manner of our
  going; and what you must know who would do likewise; I shall try here to
  tell。
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  THE MOUNTAINS
  II
  ON EQUIPMENT
  If you would travel far in the great mountains where the