第 95 节
作者:随便看看      更新:2021-02-25 00:47      字数:9321
  broken by a footstep at a distance in the street。  At length;
  finding myself yawning; I determined to go to bed。  The freckled
  maid as she lighted me to my room inquired how I liked the sermon。
  〃Very much;〃 said I。  〃Ah;〃 said she; 〃did I not tell you that Mr
  Pugh was a capital preacher?〃  She then asked me how I liked the
  singing of the gals who sat in the next pew to mine。  I told her
  that I liked it exceedingly。  〃Ah;〃 said she; 〃them gals have the
  best voices in Bala。  They were once Methody gals; and sang in the
  chapels; but were converted; and are now as good Church as myself。
  Them gals have been the cause of a great many convarsions; for all
  the young fellows of their acquaintance amongst the Methodists … 〃
  〃Follow them to church;〃 said I; 〃and in time become converted。
  That's a thing of course。  If the Church gets the girls she is
  quite sure of the fellows。〃
  CHAPTER LXXIV
  Proceed on Journey … The Lad and Dog … Old Bala … The Pass …
  Extensive View … The Two Men … The Tap Nyth … The Meeting of the
  Waters … The Wild Valley … Dinas Mawddwy。
  THE Monday morning was gloomy and misty; but it did not rain; a
  circumstance which gave me no little pleasure; as I intended to
  continue my journey without delay。  After breakfast I bade farewell
  to my kind host; and also to the freckled maid; and departed; my
  satchel o'er my shoulder and my umbrella in my hand。
  I had consulted the landlord on the previous day as to where I had
  best make my next halt; and had been advised by him to stop at
  Mallwyd。  He said that if I felt tired I could put up at Dinas
  Mawddwy; about two miles on this side of Mallwyd; but that if I
  were not he would advise me to go on; as I should find very poor
  accommodation at Dinas。  On my inquiring as to the nature of the
  road; he told me that the first part of it was tolerably good;
  lying along the eastern side of the lake; but that the greater part
  of it was very rough; over hills and mountains; belonging to the
  great chain of Arran; which constituted upon the whole the wildest
  part of all Wales。
  Passing by the northern end of the lake I turned to the south; and
  proceeded along a road a little way above the side of the lake。
  The day had now to a certain extent cleared up; and the lake was
  occasionally gilded by beams of bright sunshine。  After walking a
  little way I overtook a lad dressed in a white greatcoat and
  attended by a tolerably large black dog。  I addressed him in
  English; but finding that he did not understand me I began to talk
  to him in Welsh。
  〃That's a fine dog;〃 said I。
  LAD。 … Very fine; sir; and a good dog; though young he has been
  known to kill rats。
  MYSELF。 … What is his name?
  LAD。 … His name is Toby; sir。
  MYSELF。 … And what is your name?
  LAD。 … John Jones; sir。
  MYSELF。 … And what is your father's?
  LAD。 … Waladr Jones; sir。
  MYSELF。 … Is Waladr the same as Cadwaladr?
  LAD。 … In truth; sir; it is。
  MYSELF。 … That is a fine name。
  LAD。 … It is; sir; I have heard my father say that it was the name
  of a king。
  MYSELF。 … What is your father?
  LAD。 … A farmer; sir。
  MYSELF。 … Does he farm his own land?
  LAD。 … He does not; sir; he is tenant to Mr Price of Hiwlas。
  MYSELF。 … Do you live far from Bala?
  LAD。 … Not very far; sir。
  MYSELF。 … Are you going home now?
  LAD。 … I am not; sir; our home is on the other side of Bala。  I am
  going to see a relation up the road。
  MYSELF。 … Bala is a nice place。
  LAD。 … It is; sir; but not so fine as old Bala。
  MYSELF。 … I never heard of such a place。  Where is it?
  LAD。 … Under the lake; sir。
  MYSELF。 … What do you mean?
  LAD。 … It stood in the old time where the lake now is; and a fine
  city it was; full of fine houses; towers; and castles; but with
  neither church nor chapel; for the people neither knew God nor
  cared for Him; and thought of nothing but singing and dancing and
  other wicked things。  So God was angry with them; and one night;
  when they were all busy at singing and dancing and the like; God
  gave the word; and the city sank down into Unknown; and the lake
  boiled up where it once stood。
  MYSELF。 … That was a long time ago。
  LAD。 … In truth; sir; it was。
  MYSELF。 … Before the days of King Cadwaladr。
  LAD。 … I daresay it was; sir。
  I walked fast; but the lad was a shrewd walker; and though
  encumbered with his greatcoat contrived to keep tolerably up with
  me。  The road went over hill and dale; but upon the whole more
  upward than downward。  After proceeding about an hour and a half we
  left the lake; to the southern extremity of which we had nearly
  come; somewhat behind; and bore away to the south…east; gradually
  ascending。  At length the lad; pointing to a small farm…house on
  the side of a hill; told me he was bound thither; and presently
  bidding me farewell; turned aside up a footpath which led towards
  it。
  About a minute afterwards a small delicate furred creature with a
  white mark round its neck and with a little tail trailing on the
  ground ran swiftly across the road。  It was a weasel or something
  of that genus; on observing it I was glad that the lad and the dog
  were gone; as between them they would probably have killed it。  I
  hate to see poor wild animals persecuted and murdered; lose my
  appetite for dinner at hearing the screams of a hare pursued by
  greyhounds; and am silly enough to feel disgust and horror at the
  squeals of a rat in the fangs of a terrier; which one of the
  sporting tribe once told me were the sweetest sounds in 〃natur。〃
  I crossed a bridge over a deep gulley which discharged its waters
  into a river in a valley on the right。  Arran rose in great majesty
  on the farther side of this vale; its head partly shrouded in mist。
  The day now became considerably overcast。  I wandered on over much
  rough ground till I came to a collection of houses at the bottom of
  a pass leading up a steep mountain。  Seeing the door of one of the
  houses open I peeped in; and a woman who was sitting knitting in
  the interior rose and came out to me。  I asked the name of the
  place。  The name which she told me sounded something like Ty Capel
  Saer … the House of the Chapel of the Carpenter。  I inquired the
  name of the river in the valley。  Cynllwyd; hoary…headed; she
  seemed to say; but here; as well as with respect to her first
  answer; I speak under correction; for her Welsh was what my old
  friends; the Spaniards; would call muy cerrado; that is; close or
  indistinct。  She asked me if I was going up the bwlch。  I told her
  I was。
  〃Rather you than I;〃 said she; looking up to the heavens; which had
  assumed a very dismal; not to say awful; appearance。
  Presently I began to ascend the pass or bwlch; a green hill on my
  right intercepting the view of Arran; another very lofty hill on my
  left with wood towards the summit。  Coming to a little cottage
  which stood on the left I went to the door and knocked。  A smiling
  young woman opened it; of whom I asked the name of the house。
  〃Ty Nant … the House of the Dingle;〃 she replied。
  〃Do you live alone?〃 said I。
  〃No; mother lives here。〃
  〃Any Saesneg?〃
  〃No;〃 said she with a smile; 〃S'sneg of no use here。〃
  Her face looked the picture of kindness。  I was now indeed in Wales
  amongst the real Welsh。  I went on some way。  Suddenly there was a
  moaning sound; and rain came down in torrents。  Seeing a deserted
  cottage on my left I went in。  There was fodder in it; and it
  appeared to serve partly as a barn; partly as a cow…house。  The
  rain poured upon the roof; and I was glad I had found shelter。
  Close behind this place a small brook precipitated itself down
  rocks in four successive falls。
  The rain having ceased I proceeded; and after a considerable time
  reached the top of the pass。  From thence I had a view of the
  valley and lake of Bala; the lake looking like an immense sheet of
  steel。  A round hill; however; somewhat intercepted the view of the
  latter。  The scene in my immediate neighbourhood was very desolate;
  moory hillocks were all about me of a wretched russet colour; on my
  left; on the very crest of the hill up which I had so long been
  toiling; stood a black pyramid of turf; a pole on the top of it。
  The road now wore nearly due west down a steep descent。  Arran was
  slightly to the north of me。  I; however; soon lost sight of it; as
  I went down the farther side of the hill; which lies over against
  it to the south…east。  The sun; now descending; began to shine out。
  The pass down which I was now going was yet wilder than the one up
  which I had lately come。  Close on my right was the steep hill's
  side out of which the road or path had been cut; which was here and
  there overhung by crags of wondrous forms; on my left was a very
  deep glen; beyond which was a black; precipitous; rocky wall; from
  a chasm near the top of which tumbled with a rushing sound a
  slender brook; seemingly the commencement of a mountain stream;
  which hurried into a valley far below towards the west。  When
  nearly at the bottom of the descent I stood still to look around
  me。  Grand and wild was the scenery。  On my left were noble green