Book　out　of　my　satchel；　and　also　my　single　white　shirt；　which　I　put
  on。
  Having　dressed　myself　I　went　to　the　coffee…room　and　sat　down　to
  breakfast。　　What　a　breakfast！　…　pot　of　hare；　ditto　of　trout；　pot　of
  prepared　shrimps；　dish　of　plain　shrimps；　tin　of　sardines；　beautiful
  beef…steak；　eggs；　muffin；　large　loaf；　and　butter；　not　forgetting
  capital　tea。　　There's　a　breakfast　for　you！
  As　the　little　freckled　maid　was　removing　the　breakfast　things　I
  asked　her　how　old　she　was。
  〃Eighteen；　sir；　last　Candlemas；〃　said　the　freckled　maid。
  〃Are　your　parents　alive？〃
  〃My　mother　is；　sir；　but　my　father　is　dead。〃
  〃What　was　your　father？〃
  〃He　was　an　Irishman；　sir！　and　boots　to　this　inn。〃
  〃Is　your　mother　Irish？〃
  〃No；　sir；　she　is　of　this　place；　my　father　married　her　shortly　after
  he　came　here。〃
  〃Of　what　religion　are　you？〃
  〃Church；　sir；　Church。〃
  〃Was　your　father　of　the　Church？〃
  〃Not　always；　sir；　he　was　once　what　is　called　a　Catholic。　　He　turned
  to　the　Church　after　he　came　here。〃
  〃A'n't　there　a　great　many　Methodists　in　Bala？〃
  〃Plenty；　sir；　plenty。〃
  〃How　came　your　father　not　to　go　over　to　the　Methodists　instead　of
  the　Church？〃
  〃'Cause　he　didn't　like　them；　sir；　he　used　to　say　they　were　a
  trumpery；　cheating　set；　that　they　wouldn't　swear；　but　would　lie
  through　a　three…inch　board。〃
  〃I　suppose　your　mother　is　a　Church…woman？〃
  〃She　is　now；　sir；　but　before　she　knew　my　father　she　was　a
  Methodist。〃
  〃Of　what　religion　is　the　master　of　the　house？〃
  〃Church；　sir；　Church；　so　is　all　the　family。〃
  〃Who　is　the　clergyman　of　the　place？〃
  〃Mr　Pugh；　sir！〃
  〃Is　he　a　good　preacher？〃
  〃Capital；　sir！　and　so　is　each　of　his　curates；　he　and　they　are
  converting　the　Methodists　left　and　right。〃
  〃I　should　like　to　hear　him。〃
  〃Well；　sir！　that　you　can　do。　　My　master；　who　is　going　to　church
  presently；　will　be　happy　to　accommodate　you　in　his　pew。〃
  I　went　to　church　with　the　landlord；　a　tall　gentlemanly　man　of　the
  name　of　Jones　…　Oh　that　eternal　name　of　Jones！　　Rain　was　falling
  fast；　and　we　were　glad　to　hold　up　our　umbrellas。　　We　did　not　go　to
  the　church　at　Bala；　at　which　there　was　no　service　that　morning；　but
  to　that　of　a　little　village　close　by；　on　the　side　of　the　lake；　the
  living　of　which　is　incorporated　with　that　of　Bala。　　The　church
  stands　low　down　by　the　lake　at　the　bottom　of　a　little　nook。　　Its
  name　which　is　Llan　uwch　Llyn；　is　descriptive　of　its　position；
  signifying　the　Church　above　the　Lake。　　It　is　a　long；　low；　ancient
  edifice；　standing　north…east　by　south…west。　　The　village　is　just
  above　it　on　a　rising　ground；　behind　which　are　lofty　hills
  pleasantly　dotted　with　groves；　trees；　and　houses。　　The　interior　of
  the　edifice　has　a　somewhat　dilapidated　appearance。　　The　service　was
  in　Welsh。　　The　clergyman　was　about　forty　years　of　age；　and　had　a
  highly…intelligent　look。　　His　voice　was　remarkably　clear　and
  distinct。　　He　preached　an　excellent　practical　sermon；　text；　14th
  chapter；　22nd　verse　of　Luke；　about　sending　out　servants　to　invite
  people　to　the　supper。　　After　the　sermon　there　was　a　gathering　for
  the　poor。
  As　I　returned　to　the　inn　I　had　a　good　deal　of　conversation　with　the
  landlord　on　religious　subjects。　　He　told　me　that　the　Church　of
  England；　which　for　a　long　time　had　been　a　down…trodden　Church　in
  Wales；　had　of　late　begun　to　raise　its　head；　and　chiefly　owing　to
  the　zeal　and　activity　of　its　present　ministers；　that　the　former
  ministers　of　the　Church　were　good　men；　but　had　not　energy　enough　to
  suit　the　times　in　which　they　lived；　that　the　present　ministers
  fought　the　Methodist　preachers　with　their　own　weapons；　namely；
  extemporary　preaching；　and　beat　them；　winning　shoals　from　their
  congregations。　　He　seemed　to　think　that　the　time　was　not　far
  distant　when　the　Anglican　Church　would　be　the　popular　as　well　as
  the　established　Church　of　Wales。
  Finding　myself　rather　dull　in　the　inn；　I　went　out　again；
  notwithstanding　that　it　rained。　　I　ascended　the　toman　or　mound
  which　I　had　visited　on　a　former　occasion。　　Nothing　could　be　more
  desolate　and　dreary　than　the　scene　around。　　The　woods　were　stripped
  of　their　verdure　and　the　hills　were　half　shrouded　in　mist。　　How
  unlike　was　this　scene　to　the　smiling；　glorious　prospect　which　had
  greeted　my　eyes　a　few　months　before。　　The　rain　coming　down　with
  redoubled　violence；　I　was　soon　glad　to　descend　and　regain　the　inn。
  Shortly　before　dinner　I　was　visited　by　the　landlady；　a　fine　tall
  woman　of　about　fifty；　with　considerable　remains　of　beauty　in　her
  countenance。　　She　came　to　ask　me　if　I　was　comfortable。　　I　told　her
  that　it　was　my　own　fault　if　I　was　not。　　We　were　soon　in　very
  friendly　discourse。　　I　asked　her　her　maiden　name。
  〃Owen；〃　said　she；　laughing；　〃which；　after　my　present　name　of　Jones；
  is　the　most　common　name　in　Wales。〃
  〃They　were　both　one　and　the　same　originally；〃　said　I；　〃Owen　and
  Jones　both　mean　John。〃
  She　too　was　a　staunch　member　of　the　Church　of　England；　which　she
  said　was　the　only　true　Church。　　She　spoke　in　terms　of　high　respect
  and　admiration　of　her　minister；　and　said　that　a　new　church　was
  being　built；　the　old　one　not　being　large　enough　to　accommodate　the
  numbers　who　thronged　to　hear　him。
  I　had　a　noble　goose　for　dinner；　to　which　I　did　ample　justice。
  About　four　o'clock；　the　weather　having　cleared　up；　I　took　a　stroll。
  It　was　a　beautiful　evening；　though　rain　clouds　still　hovered　about。
  I　wandered　to　the　northern　end　of　Llyn　Tegid；　which　I　had　passed　in
  the　preceding　evening。　　The　wind　was　blowing　from　the　south；　and
  tiny　waves　were　beating　against　the　shore；　which　consisted　of　small
  brown　pebbles。　　The　lake　has　certainly　not　its　name；　which
  signifies　Lake　of　Beauty；　for　nothing。　　It　is　a　beautiful　sheet　of
  water；　and　beautifully　situated。　　It　is　oblong　and　about　six　miles
  in　length。　　On　all　sides；　except　to　the　north；　it　is　bounded　by
  hills。　　Those　at　the　southern　end　are　very　lofty；　the　tallest　of
  which　is　Arran；　which　lifts　its　head　to　the　clouds　like　a　huge
  loaf。　　As　I　wandered　on　the　strand　I　thought　of　a　certain　British
  prince　and　poet；　who　in　the　very　old　time　sought　a　refuge　in　the
  vicinity　of　the　lake　from　the　rage　of　the　Saxons。　　His　name　was
  Llewarch　Hen；　of　whom　I　will　now　say　a　few　words。
  Llewarch　Hen；　or　Llewarch　the　Aged；　was　born　about　the　commencement
  of　the　sixth　and　died　about　the　middle　of　the　seventh　century；
  having　attained　to　the　prodigious　age　of　one　hundred　and　forty　or
  fifty　years；　which　is　perhaps　the　lot　of　about　forty　individuals　in
  the　course　of　a　millennium。　　If　he　was　remarkable　for　his　years　he
  was　no　less　so　for　the　number　of　his　misfortunes。　　He　was　one　of
  the　princes　of　the　Cumbrian　Britons；　but　Cumbria　was　invaded　by　the
  Saxons；　and　a　scene　of　horrid　war　ensued。　　Llewarch　and　his　sons；
  of　whom　he　had　twenty…four；　put　themselves　at　the　head　of　their
  forces；　and　in　conjunction　with　the　other　Cumbrian　princes　made　a
  brave　but　fruitless　opposition　to　the　invaders。　　Most　of　his　sons
  were　slain；　and　he　himself　with　the　remainder　sought　shelter　in
  Powys；　in　the　hall　of　Cynddylan；　its　prince。　　But　the　Saxon　bills
  and　bows　found　their　way　to　Powys　too。　　Cynddylan　was　slain；　and
  with　him　the　last　of　the　sons　of　Llewarch；　who；　reft　of　his
  protector；　retired　to　a　hut　by　the　side　of　the　lake　of　Bala；　where
  he　lived　the　life　of　a　recluse；　and　composed　elegies　on　his　sons
  and　slaughtered　friends；　and　on　his　old　age；　all　of　which　abound
  with　so　much　simplicity　and　pathos　that　the　heart　of　him　must　be
  hard　indeed　who　can　read　them　unmoved。　　Whilst　a　prince　he　was
  revered　for　his　wisdom　and　equity；　and　he　is　said　in　one　of　the
  historical　triads　to　have　been　one　of　the　three　consulting　warriors
  of　Arthur。
  In　the　evening　I　attended　service　in　the　old　church　at　Bala。　　The
  interior　of　the　edifice　was　remarkably　plain；　no　ornament　of　any
  kind　was　distinguishable；　the　congregation　was　overflowing；　amongst
  whom　I　observed　the　innkeeper　and　his　wife；　the　little　freckled
  maid　and　the　boots。　　The　entire　service　was　in　Welsh。　　Next　to　the
  pew　in　which　I　sat　was　one　filled　with　young　singing　women；　all　of
  whom　seemed　to　have　voices　of　wonderful　power。　　The　prayers　were
  read　by　a　strapping　young　curate　at　least　six　feet　high。　　The
  sermon　was　preached　by　the　rector；　and　was　a　continuation　of　the
  one　which　I　had　heard　him　preach　in　the　morning。　　It　was　a　very
  comforting　discourse；　as　the　preacher　clearly　proved　that　every
  sinner　will　be　pardoned　who　comes　to　Jesus。　　I　was　particularly
  struck　with　one　part。　　The　preacher　said　that　Jesus'　arms　being
  stretched　out　upon　the　cross　was　emblematic　of　His　surprising　love
  and　His　willingness　to　receive　anybody。　　The　service　concluded　with
  the　noble　anthem　Teyrnasa　Jesu　Mawr；　〃May　Mighty　Jesus　reign！〃
  The　service　over　I　returned　to　the　parlour　of　the　inn。　　There　I　sat
  for　a　long…time；　lone　and　solitary；　staring　at　the　fire　in　the
  grate。　　I　was　the　only　guest　in　the　house；　a　great　silence
  prevailed　both　within　and　without；　sometimes　five　minutes　elapsed
  without　my　hearing　a　sound；　and　then；　perhaps；　the　silence　would　be
  broken　by　a　footstep　at　a　distance　in　the　street。　　At　length；
  finding　myself　yaw