Methodists。　　That　it　was　fraught　with　curious　and　original　matter；
  was　written　in　a　straightforward；　Methodical　style；　and　that　I　have
  no　doubt　it　will　some　day　or　other　be　extensively　known　and　highly
  prized。
  After　dinner　I　called　for　half　a　pint　of　wine。　　Whilst　I　was
  trifling　over　it；　a　commercial　traveller　entered　into　conversation
  with　me。　　After　some　time　he　asked　me　if　I　was　going　further　that
  night。
  〃To　Llangollen；〃　said　I。
  〃By　the　ten　o'clock　train？〃　said　he。
  〃No；〃　I　replied；　〃I'm　going　on　foot。〃
  〃On　foot！〃　said　he；　〃I　would　not　go　on　foot　there　this　night　for
  fifty　pounds。〃
  〃Why　not？〃　said　I。
  〃For　fear　of　being　knocked　down　by　the　colliers；　who　will　be　all
  out　and　drunk。〃
  〃If　not　more　than　two　attack　me；〃　said　I；　〃I　shan't　much　mind。
  With　this　book　I　am　sure　I　can　knock　down　one；　and　I　think　I　can
  find　play　for　the　other　with　my　fists。〃
  The　commercial　traveller　looked　at　me。　　〃A　strange　kind　of　Baptist
  minister；〃　I　thought　I　heard　him　say。
  CHAPTER　LXII
  Rhiwabon　Road　…　The　Public…house　Keeper　…　No　Welsh　…　The　Wrong　Road
  …　The　Good　Wife。
  I　PAID　my　reckoning　and　started。　　The　night　was　now　rapidly　closing
  in。　　I　passed　the　toll…gate　and　hurried　along　the　Rhiwabon　road；
  overtaking　companies　of　Welsh　going　home；　amongst　whom　were　many
  individuals；　whom；　from　their　thick　and　confused　speech；　as　well　as
  from　their　staggering　gait；　I　judged　to　be　intoxicated。　　As　I
  passed　a　red　public…house　on　my　right　hand；　at　the　door　of　which
  stood　several　carts；　a　scream　of　Welsh　issued　from　it。
  〃Let　any　Saxon；〃　said　I；　〃who　is　fond　of　fighting　and　wishes　for　a
  bloody　nose　go　in　there。〃
  Coming　to　the　small　village　about　a　mile　from　Rhiwabon；　I　felt
  thirsty；　and　seeing　a　public…house；　in　which　all　seemed　to　be
  quiet；　I　went　in。　　A　thick…set　man　with　a　pipe　in　his　mouth　sat　in
  the　tap…room；　and　also　a　woman。
  〃Where　is　the　landlord？〃　said　I。
  〃I　am　the　landlord；〃　said　the　man；　huskily。　　〃What　do　you　want？〃
  〃A　pint　of　ale；〃　said　I。
  The　man　got　up　and　with　his　pipe　in　his　mouth　went　staggering　out
  of　the　room。　　In　about　a　minute　he　returned　holding　a　mug　in　his
  hand；　which　he　put　down　on　a　table　before　me；　spilling　no　slight
  quantity　of　the　liquor　as　he　did　so。　　I　put　down　three…pence　on　the
  table。　　He　took　the　money　up　slowly　piece　by　piece；　looked　at　it
  and　appeared　to　consider；　then　taking　the　pipe　out　of　his　mouth　he
  dashed　it　to　seven　pieces　against　the　table；　then　staggered　out　of
  the　room　into　the　passage；　and　from　thence　apparently　out　of　the
  house。　　I　tasted　the　ale　which　was　very　good；　then　turning　to　the
  woman　who　seemed　about　three…and…twenty　and　was　rather　good…
  looking；　I　spoke　to　her　in　Welsh。
  〃I　have　no　Welsh；　sir；〃　said　she。
  〃How　is　that？〃　said　I；　〃this　village　is　I　think　in　the　Welshery。〃
  〃It　is；〃　said　she；　〃but　I　am　from　Shropshire。〃
  〃Are　you　the　mistress　of　the　house？〃　said　I。
  〃No；〃　said　she；　〃I　am　married　to　a　collier；〃　then　getting　up　she
  said；　〃I　must　go　and　see　after　my　husband。〃
  〃Won't　you　take　a　glass　of　ale　first？〃　said　I；　offering　to　fill　a
  glass　which　stood　on　the　table。
  〃No；〃　said　she；　〃I　am　the　worst　in　the　world　for　a　glass　of　ale；〃
  and　without　saying　anything　more　she　departed。
  〃I　wonder　whether　your　husband　is　anything　like　you　with　respect　to
  a　glass　of　ale；〃　said　I　to　myself；　then　finishing　my　ale　I　got　up
  and　left　the　house；　which　when　I　departed　appeared　to　be　entirely
  deserted。
  It　was　now　quite　night；　and　it　would　have　been　pitchy…dark　but　for
  the　glare　of　forges。　　There　was　an　immense　glare　to　the　south…west；
  which　I　conceived　proceeded　from　those　of　Cefn　Mawr。　　It　lighted　up
  the　south…western　sky；　then　there　were　two　other　glares　nearer　to
  me；　seemingly　divided　by　a　lump　of　something；　perhaps　a　grove　of
  trees。
  Walking　very　fast　I　soon　overtook　a　man。　　I　knew　him　at　once　by　his
  staggering　gait。
  〃Ah；　landlord！〃　said　I；　〃whither　bound？〃
  〃To　Rhiwabon；〃　said　he；　huskily；　〃for　a　pint。〃
  〃Is　the　ale　so　good　at　Rhiwabon；〃　said　I；　〃that　you　leave　home　for
  it？〃
  〃No；〃　said　he；　rather　shortly；　〃there's　not　a　glass　of　good　ale　in
  Rhiwabon。〃
  〃Then　why　do　you　go　thither？〃　said　I。
  〃Because　a　pint　of　bad　liquor　abroad　is　better　than　a　quart　of　good
  at　home；〃　said　the　landlord；　reeling　against　the　hedge。
  〃There　are　many　in　a　higher　station　than　you　who　act　upon　that
  principle；〃　thought　I　to　myself　as　I　passed　on。
  I　soon　reached　Rhiwabon。　　There　was　a　prodigious　noise　in　the
  public…houses　as　I　passed　through　it。　　〃Colliers　carousing；〃　said
  I。　　〃Well；　I　shall　not　go　amongst　them　to　preach　temperance；　though
  perhaps　in　strict　duty　I　ought。〃　　At　the　end　of　the　town；　instead
  of　taking　the　road　on　the　left　side　of　the　church；　I　took　that　on
  the　right。　　It　was　not　till　I　had　proceeded　nearly　a　mile　that　I
  began　to　be　apprehensive　that　I　had　mistaken　the　way。　　Hearing　some
  people　coming　towards　me　on　the　road　I　waited　till　they　came　up；
  they　proved　to　be　a　man　and　a　woman。　　On　my　inquiring　whether　I　was
  right　for　Llangollen；　the　former　told　me　that　I　was　not；　and　in
  order　to　get　there　it　was　necessary　that　I　should　return　to
  Rhiwabon。　　I　instantly　turned　round。　　About　half…way　back　I　met　a
  man　who　asked　me　in　English　where　I　was　hurrying　to。　　I　said　to
  Rhiwabon；　in　order　to　get　to　Llangollen。　　〃Well；　then；〃　said　he；
  〃you　need　not　return　to　Rhiwabon　…　yonder　is　a　short　cut　across　the
  fields；〃　and　he　pointed　to　a　gate。　　I　thanked　him；　and　said　I　would
  go　by　it；　before　leaving　him　I　asked　to　what　place　the　road　led
  which　I　had　been　following。
  〃To　Pentre　Castren；〃　he　replied。　　I　struck　across　the　fields　and
  should　probably　have　tumbled　half…a…dozen　times　over　pales　and　the
  like；　but　for　the　light　of　the　Cefn　furnaces　before　me　which　cast
  their　red　glow　upon　my　path。　　I　debauched　upon　the　Llangollen　road
  near　to　the　tramway　leading　to　the　collieries。　　Two　enormous　sheets
  of　flame　shot　up　high　into　the　air　from　ovens；　illumining　two
  spectral　chimneys　as　high　as　steeples；　also　smoky　buildings；　and
  grimy　figures　moving　about。　　There　was　a　clanging　of　engines；　a
  noise　of　shovels　and　a　falling　of　coals　truly　horrible。　　The　glare
  was　so　great　that　I　could　distinctly　see　the　minutest　lines　upon　my
  hand。　　Advancing　along　the　tramway　I　obtained　a　nearer　view　of　the
  hellish　buildings；　the　chimneys；　and　the　demoniac　figures。　　It　was
  just　such　a　scene　as　one　of　those　described　by　Ellis　Wynn　in　his
  Vision　of　Hell。　　Feeling　my　eyes　scorching　I　turned　away；　and
  proceeded　towards　Llangollen；　sometimes　on　the　muddy　road；
  sometimes　on　the　dangerous　causeway。　　For　three　miles　at　least　I
  met　nobody。　　Near　Llangollen；　as　I　was　walking　on　the　causeway；
  three　men　came　swiftly　towards　me。　　I　kept　the　hedge；　which　was　my
  right；　the　two　first　brushed　roughly　past　me；　the　third　came　full
  upon　me　and　was　tumbled　into　the　road。　　There　was　a　laugh　from　the
  two　first　and　a　loud　curse　from　the　last　as　he　sprawled　in　the
  mire。　　I　merely　said　〃Nos　Da'ki；〃　and　passed　on；　and　in　about　a
  quarter　of　an　hour　reached　home；　where　I　found　my　wife　awaiting　me
  alone；　Henrietta　having　gone　to　bed　being　slightly　indisposed。　　My
  wife　received　me　with　a　cheerful　smile。　　I　looked　at　her　and　the
  good　wife　of　the　Triad　came　to　my　mind。
  〃She　is　modest；　void　of　deceit；　and　obedient。
  〃Pure　of　conscience；　gracious　of　tongue；　and　true　to　her　husband。
  〃Her　heart　not　proud；　her　manners　affable；　and　her　bosom　full　of
  compassion　for　the　poor。
  〃Labouring　to　be　tidy；　skilful　of　hand；　and　fond　of　praying　to　God。
  〃Her　conversation　amiable；　her　dress　decent；　and　her　house　orderly。
  〃Quick　of　hand；　quick　of　eye；　and　quick　of　understanding。
  〃Her　person　shapely；　her　manners　agreeable；　and　her　heart　innocent。
  〃Her　face　benignant；　her　head　intelligent；　and　provident。
  〃Neighbourly；　gentle；　and　of　a　liberal　way　of　thinking。
  〃Able　in　directing；　providing　what　is　wanting；　and　a　good　mother　to
  her　children。
  〃Loving　her　husband；　loving　peace；　and　loving　God。
  〃Happy　the　man；〃　adds　the　Triad；　〃who　possesses　such　a　wife。〃　　Very
  true；　O　Triad；　always　provided　he　is　in　some　degree　worthy　of　her；
  but　many　a　man　leaves　an　innocent　wife　at　home　for　an　impure
  Jezebel　abroad；　even　as　many　a　one　prefers　a　pint　of　hog's　wash
  abroad　to　a　tankard　of　generous　liquor　at　home。
  CHAPTER　LXIII
  Preparations　for　Departure　…　Cat　provided　for　…　A　Pleasant　Party　…
  Last　Night　at　Llangollen。
  I　WAS　awakened　early　on　the　Sunday　morning　by　the　howling　of　wind。
  There　was　a　considerable　storm　throughout　the　day；　but
  unaccompanied　by　rain。　　I　went　to　church　both　in　the　morning　and
  the　evening。　　The　next　day　there　was　a　great　deal　of　rain。　　It　was
  now　the　latter　end　of　October；　winter　was　coming　on；　and　my　wife
  and　daughter　were　anxious　to　return　home。　　After　some　consultation
  it　was　agreed　that　they　should　depart　for　London；　and　that　I　should
  join　them　there　after　making　a　pedestrian　tour　in　South　Wales。
  I　should　have　been　loth　to　quit　Wales　without　visiting　the
  Deheubarth　or　Southern　Region；　a　land　differing　widely；　as　I　had
  heard；　both　in　language　and　customs　from　Gwy