the　farmer　on　the　preceding　Saturday；　and　soon　entered　the　glen；
  the　appearance　of　which　had　so　much　attracted　my　curiosity。　　A
  torrent；　rushing　down　from　the　north；　was　on　my　right。　　It　soon
  began　to　drizzle；　and　mist　so　filled　the　glen　that　I　could　only
  distinguish　objects　a　short　way　before　me；　and　on　either　side。　　I
  wandered　on　a　considerable　way；　crossing　the　torrent　several　times
  by　rustic　bridges。　　I　passed　two　lone　farm…houses　and　at　last　saw
  another　on　my　left　hand。　　The　mist　had　now　cleared　up；　but　it　still
  slightly　rained　…　the　scenery　was　wild　to　a　degree　…　a　little　way
  before　me　was　a　tremendous　pass；　near　it　an　enormous　crag　of　a
  strange　form　rising　to　the　very　heavens；　the　upper　part　of　it　of　a
  dull　white　colour。　　Seeing　a　respectable…looking　man　near　the　house
  I　went　up　to　him。
  〃Am　I　in　the　right　way　to　Wrexham？〃　said　I；　addressing　him　in
  English。
  〃You　can　get　to　Wrexham　this　way；　sir；〃　he　replied。
  〃Can　you　tell　me　the　name　of　that　crag？〃　said　I；　pointing　to　the
  large　one。
  〃That　crag；　sir；　is　called　Craig　y　Forwyn。〃
  〃The　maiden's　crag；〃　said　I；　〃why　is　it　called　so？〃
  〃I　do　not　know　sir；　some　people　say　that　it　is　called　so　because
  its　head　is　like　that　of　a　woman；　others　because　a　young　girl　in
  love　leaped　from　the　top　of　it　and　was　killed。〃
  〃And　what　is　the　name　of　this　house？〃　said　I。
  〃This　house；　sir；　is　called　Plas　Uchaf。〃
  〃Is　it　called　Plas　Uchaf；〃　said　I；　〃because　it　is　the　highest　house
  in　the　valley？〃
  〃It　is；　sir；　it　is　the　highest　of　three　homesteads；　the　next　below
  it　is　Plas　Canol　…　and　the　one　below　that　Plas　Isaf。〃
  〃Middle　place　and　lower　place；〃　said　I。　　〃It　is　very　odd　that　I
  know　in　England　three　people　who　derive　their　names　from　places　so
  situated。　　One　is　Houghton；　another　Middleton；　and　the　third
  Lowdon；　in　modern　English；　Hightown；　Middletown；　and　Lowtown。〃
  〃You　appear　to　be　a　person　of　great　intelligence；　sir。〃
  〃No；　I　am　not　…　but　I　am　rather　fond　of　analysing　words；
  particularly　the　names　of　persons　and　places。　　Is　the　road　to
  Wrexham　hard　to　find？〃
  〃Not　very；　sir；　that　is；　in　the　day…time。　　Do　you　live　at　Wrexham？〃
  〃No；〃　I　replied；　〃I　am　stopping　at　Llangollen。〃
  〃But　you　won't　return　there　to…night？〃
  〃Oh　yes；　I　shall！〃
  〃By　this　road？〃
  〃No；　by　the　common　road。　　This　is　not　a　road　to　travel　by　night。〃
  〃Nor　is　the　common　road；　sir；　for　a　respectable　person　on　foot；
  that　is；　on　a　Saturday　night。　　You　will　perhaps　meet　drunken
  colliers　who　may　knock　you　down。〃
  〃I　will　take　my　chance　for　that；〃　said　I；　and　bade　him　farewell。　　I
  entered　the　pass；　passing　under　the　strange…looking　crag。　　After　I
  had　walked　about　half　a　mile　the　pass　widened　considerably　and　a
  little　way　further　on　debauched　on　some　wild　moory　ground。　　Here
  the　road　became　very　indistinct。　　At　length　I　stopped　in　a　state　of
  uncertainty。　　A　well…defined　path　presented　itself；　leading　to　the
  east；　whilst　northward　before　me　there　seemed　scarcely　any　path　at
  all。　　After　some　hesitation　I　turned　to　the　east　by　the　well…
  defined　path；　and　by　so　doing　went　wrong；　as　I　soon　found。
  I　mounted　the　side　of　a　brown　hill　covered　with　moss…like　grass；
  and　here　and　there　heather。　　By　the　time　I　arrived　at　the　top　of
  the　hill　the　sun　shone　out；　and　I　saw　Rhiwabon　and　Cefn　Mawr　before
  me　in　the　distance。　　〃I　am　going　wrong；〃　said　I；　〃I　should　have
  kept　on　due　north。　　However；　I　will　not　go　back；　but　will　steeple…
  chase　it　across　the　country　to　Wrexham；　which　must　be　towards　the
  north…east。〃　　So　turning　aside　from　the　path；　I　dashed　across　the
  hills　in　that　direction；　sometimes　the　heather　was　up　to　my　knees；
  and　sometimes　I　was　up　to　the　knees　in　quags。　　At　length　I　came　to
  a　deep　ravine　which　I　descended；　at　the　bottom　was　a　quagmire；
  which；　however；　I　contrived　to　cross　by　means　of　certain　stepping…
  stones；　and　came　to　a　cart　path　up　a　heathery　hill　which　I
  followed。　　I　soon　reached　the　top　of　the　hill；　and　the　path　still
  continuing；　I　followed　it　till　I　saw　some　small　grimy…looking　huts；
  which　I　supposed　were　those　of　colliers。　　At　the　door　of　the　first
  I　saw　a　girl。　　I　spoke　to　her　in　Welsh；　and　found　she　had　little　or
  none。　　I　passed　on；　and　seeing　the　door　of　a　cabin　open　I　looked　in
  …　and　saw　no　adult　person；　but　several　grimy　but　chubby　children。
  I　spoke　to　them　in　English；　and　found　they　could　only　speak　Welsh。
  Presently　I　observed　a　robust　woman　advancing　towards　me；　she　was
  barefooted　and　bore　on　her　head　an　immense　lump　of　coal。　　I　spoke
  to　her　in　Welsh；　and　found　she　could　only　speak　English。　　〃Truly；〃
  said　I　to　myself；　〃I　am　on　the　borders。　　What　a　mixture　of　races
  and　languages！〃　　The　next　person　I　met　was　a　man　in　a　collier's
  dress；　he　was　a　stout…built　fellow　of　the　middle　age；　with　a　coal…
  dusty　surly　countenance。　　I　asked　him　in　Welsh　if　I　was　in　the
  right　direction　for　Wrexham；　he　answered　in　a　surly　manner　in
  English；　that　I　was。　　I　again　spoke　to　him　in　Welsh；　making　some
  indifferent　observation　on　the　weather；　and　he　answered　in　English
  yet　more　gruffly　than　before。　　For　the　third　time　I　spoke　to　him　in
  Welsh；　whereupon　looking　at　me　with　a　grin　of　savage　contempt；　and
  showing　a　set　of　teeth　like　those　of　a　mastiff；　he　said；　〃How's
  this？　why　you　haven't　a　word　of　English？　　A　pretty　fellow　you；　with
  a　long　coat　on　your　back　and　no　English　on　your　tongue；　an't　you
  ashamed　of　yourself？　　Why；　here　am　I　in　a　short　coat；　yet　I'd　have
  you　to　know　that　I　can　speak　English　as　well　as　Welsh；　aye　and　a
  good　deal　better。〃　　〃All　people　are　not　equally　clebber；〃　said　I；
  still　speaking　Welsh。　　〃Clebber；〃　said　he；　〃clebber！　what　is
  clebber？　why　can't　you　say　clever！　　Why；　I　never　saw　such　a　low；
  illiterate　fellow　in　my　life；〃　and　with　these　words　he　turned　away
  with　every　mark　of　disdain；　and　entered　a　cottage　near　at　hand。
  〃Here　I　have　had；〃　said　I　to　myself；　as　I　proceeded　on　my　way；　〃to
  pay　for　the　over…praise　which　I　lately　received。　　The　farmer　on　the
  other　side　of　the　mountain　called　me　a　person　of　great
  intelligence；　which　I　never　pretended　to　be；　and　now　this　collier
  calls　me　a　low；　illiterate　fellow；　which　I　really　don't　think　I　am。
  There　is　certainly　a　Nemesis　mixed　up　with　the　affairs　of　this
  world；　every　good　thing　which　you　get；　beyond　what　is　strictly　your
  due；　is　sure　to　be　required　from　you　with　a　vengeance。　　A　little
  over…praise　by　a　great　deal　of　underrating　…　a　gleam　of　good
  fortune　by　a　night　of　misery。〃
  I　now　saw　Wrexham　Church　at　about　the　distance　of　three　miles；　and
  presently　entered　a　lane　which　led　gently　down　from　the　hills；
  which　were　the　same　heights　I　had　seen　on　my　right　hand；　some
  months　previously；　on　my　way　from　Wrexham　to　Rhiwabon。　　The　scenery
  now　became　very　pretty　…　hedge…rows　were　on　either　side；　a
  luxuriance　of　trees　and　plenty　of　green　fields。　　I　reached　the
  bottom　of　the　lane；　beyond　which　I　saw　a　strange…looking　house　upon
  a　slope　on　the　right　hand。　　It　was　very　large；　ruinous；　and
  seemingly　deserted。　　A　little　beyond　it　was　a　farm…house；　connected
  with　which　was　a　long　row　of　farming　buildings　along　the　road…side。
  Seeing　a　woman　seated　knitting　at　the　door　of　a　little　cottage；　I
  asked　her　in　English　the　name　of　the　old；　ruinous　house？
  〃Cadogan　Hall；　sir；〃　she　replied。
  〃And　whom　does　it　belong　to？〃　said　I。
  〃I　don't　know　exactly；〃　replied　the　woman；　〃but　Mr　Morris　at　the
  farm　holds　it；　and　stows　his　things　in　it。〃
  〃Can　you　tell　me　anything　about　it？〃　said　I。
  〃Nothing　farther；〃　said　the　woman；　〃than　that　it　is　said　to　be
  haunted；　and　to　have　been　a　barrack　many　years　ago。〃
  〃Can　you　speak　Welsh？〃　said　I。
  〃No；〃　said　the　woman；　〃I　are　Welsh　but　have　no　Welsh　language。〃
  Leaving　the　woman　I　put　on　my　best　speed　and　in　about　half　an　hour
  reached　Wrexham。
  The　first　thing　I　did　on　my　arrival　was　to　go　to　the　bookshop　and
  purchase　the　Welsh　Methodistic　book。　　It　cost　me　seven　shillings；
  and　was　a　thick；　bulky　octavo　with　a　cut…and…come…again　expression
  about　it；　which　was　anything　but　disagreeable　to　me；　for　I　hate
  your　flimsy　publications。　　The　evening　was　now　beginning　to　set　in；
  and　feeling　somewhat　hungry　I　hurried　off　to　the　Wynstay　Arms
  through　streets　crowded　with　market　people。　　On　arriving　at　the　inn
  I　entered　the　grand　room　and　ordered　dinner。　　The　waiters；
  observing　me　splashed　with　mud　from　head　to　foot；　looked　at　me
  dubiously；　seeing；　however；　the　respectable…looking　volume　which　I
  bore　in　my　hand　…　none　of　your　railroad　stuff　…　they　became　more
  assured；　and　I　presently　heard　one　say　to　the　other；　〃It's　all
  right　…　that's　Mr　So…and…So；　the　great　Baptist　preacher。　　He　has
  been　preaching　amongst　the　hills　…　don't　you　see　his　Bible？〃
  Seating　myself　at　a　table　I　inspected　the　volume。　　And　here　perhaps
  the　reader　expects　that　I　shall　regale　him　with　an　analysis　of　the
  Methodistical　volume　at　least　as　long　as　that　of　the　life　of　Tom　O'
  the　Dingle。　　In　that　case；　however；　he　will　be　disappointed；　all
  that　I　shall　at　present　say　of　it　is；　that　it　contained　a　history
  of　Methodism　in　Wales；　with　the　lives　of　the　principal　Welsh
  Methodists。　　That　it　was　fraught　with　curious　and　original　matte