a　small　house。　　He　presently　reached　me；　stopped　and　smiled。　　A
  more　open　countenance　than　his　I　never　saw　in　all　the　days　of　my
  life。
  〃Dydd　dachwi；　sir；〃　said　the　man　of　the　open　countenance；　〃the
  weather　is　very　showy。〃
  〃Very　showy；　indeed；〃　said　I；　〃I　was　just　now　wishing　for　somebody；
  of　whom　I　might　ask　a　question　or　two。〃
  〃Perhaps　I　can　answer　those　questions；　sir？〃
  〃Perhaps　you　can。　　What　is　the　name　of　that　wonderful　peak　sticking
  up　behind　the　rocks　to　the　north？〃
  〃Many　people　have　asked　that　question；　sir；　and　I　have　given　them
  the　answer　which　I　now　give　you。　　It　is　called　the　'Knicht；'　sir；
  and　a　wondrous　hill　it　is。〃
  〃And　what　is　the　name　of　yonder　hill　opposite　to　it；　to　the　south；
  rising　like　one　big　lump。〃
  〃I　do　not　know　the　name　of　that　hill；　sir；　farther　than　that　I　have
  heard　it　called　the　Great　Hill。〃
  〃And　a　very　good　name　for　it；〃　said　I；　〃do　you　live　in　that　house？〃
  〃I　do；　sir；　when　I　am　at　home。〃
  〃And　what　occupation　do　you　follow？〃
  〃I　am　a　farmer；　though　a　small　one。〃
  〃Is　your　farm　your　own？〃
  〃It　is　not；　sir：　　I　am　not　so　far　rich。〃
  〃Who　is　your　landlord？〃
  〃Mr　Blicklin；　sir。　　He　is　my　landlord。〃
  〃Is　he　a　good　landlord？〃
  〃Very　good；　sir；　no　one　can　wish　for　a　better　landlord。〃
  〃Has　he　a　wife？〃
  〃In　truth；　sir；　he　has；　and　a　very　good　wife　she　is。〃
  〃Has　he　children？〃
  〃Plenty；　sir；　and　very　fine　children　they　are。〃
  〃Is　he　Welsh？〃
  〃He　is；　sir！　　Cumro　pur　iawn。〃
  〃Farewell；〃　said　I；　〃I　shall　never　forget　you；　you　are　the　first
  tenant　I　ever　heard　speak　well　of　his　landlord；　or　any　one
  connected　with　him。〃
  〃Then　you　have　not　spoken　to　the　other　tenants　of　Mr　Blicklin；　sir。
  Every　tenant　of　Mr　Blicklin　would　say　the　same　of　him　as　I　have
  said；　and　of　his　wife　and　his　children　too。　　Good…day；　sir！〃
  I　wended　on　my　way；　the　sun　was　very　powerful；　saw　cattle　in　a　pool
  on　my　right；　maddened　with　heat　and　flies；　splashing　and　fighting。
  Presently　I　found　myself　with　extensive　meadows　on　my　right；　and　a
  wall　of　rocks　on　my　left；　on　a　lofty　bank　below　which　I　saw　goats
  feeding；　beautiful　creatures　they　were；　white　and　black；　with　long
  silky　hair；　and　long　upright　horns。　　They　were　of　large　size；　and
  very　different　in　appearance　from　the　common　race。　　These　were　the
  first　goats　which　I　had　seen　in　Wales；　for　Wales　is　not　at　present
  the　land　of　goats；　whatever　it　may　have　been。
  I　passed　under　a　crag　exceedingly　lofty；　and　of　very　frightful
  appearance。　　It　hung　menacingly　over　the　road。　　With　this　crag　the
  wall　of　rocks　terminated；　beyond　it　lay　an　extensive　strath；
  meadow；　or　marsh　bounded　on　the　cast　by　a　lofty　hill。　　The　road　lay
  across　the　marsh。　　I　went　forward；　crossed　a　bridge　over　a
  beautiful　streamlet；　and　soon　arrived　at　the　foot　of　the　hill。　　The
  road　now　took　a　turn　to　the　right；　that　is　to　the　south；　and　seemed
  to　lead　round　the　hill。　　Just　at　the　turn　of　the　road　stood　a　small
  neat　cottage。　　There　was　a　board　over　the　door　with　an　inscription。
  I　drew　nigh　and　looked　at　it；　expecting　that　it　would　tell　me　that
  good　ale　was　sold　within；　and　read：　　〃Tea　made　here；　the　draught
  which　cheers　but　not　inebriates。〃　　I　was　before　what　is　generally
  termed　a　temperance　house。
  〃The　bill　of　fare　does　not　tempt　you；　sir；〃　said　a　woman　who　made
  her　appearance　at　the　door；　just　as　I　was　about　to　turn　away　with
  an　exceedingly　wry　face。
  〃It　does　not；〃　said　I；　〃and　you　ought　to　be　ashamed　of　yourself　to
  have　nothing　better　to　offer　to　a　traveller　than　a　cup　of　tea。　　I
  am　faint；　and　I　want　good　ale　to　give　me　heart；　not　wishy…washy　tea
  to　take　away　the　little　strength　I　have。〃
  〃What　would　you　have　me　do；　sir？　　Glad　should　I　be　to　have　a　cup　of
  ale　to　offer　you；　but　the　magistrates；　when　I　applied　to　them　for　a
  licence；　refused　me　one；　so　I　am　compelled　to　make　a　cup　of　tea；　in
  order　to　get　a　crust　of　bread。　　And　if　you　choose　to　step　in；　I
  will　make　you　a　cup　of　tea；　not　wishy…washy；　I　assure　you；　but　as
  good　as　ever　was　brewed。〃
  〃I　had　tea　for　my　breakfast　at　Beth　Gelert；〃　said　I；　〃and　want　no
  more　till　to…morrow　morning。　　What's　the　name　of　that　strange…
  looking　crag　across　the　valley？〃
  〃We　call　it　Craig　yr　hyll　ddrem；　sir；　which　means　…　I　don't　know
  what　it　means　in　English。〃
  〃Does　it　mean　the　crag　of　the　frightful　look？〃
  〃It　does；　sir；〃　said　the　woman；　〃ah；　I　see　you　understand　Welsh。
  Sometimes　it's　called　Allt　Traeth。〃
  〃The　high　place　of　the　sandy　channel；〃　said　I；　〃did　the　sea　ever
  come　up　here？〃
  〃I　can't　say；　sir；　perhaps　it　did；　who　knows？〃
  〃I　shouldn't　wonder；〃　said　I；　〃if　there　was　once　an　arm　of　the　sea
  between　that　crag　and　this　hill。　　Thank　you！　　Farewell。〃
  〃Then　you　won't　walk　in；　sir？
  〃Not　to　drink　tea；〃　said　I；　〃tea　is　a　good　thing　at　a　proper　time；
  but　were　I　to　drink　it　now；　it　would　make　me　ill。〃
  〃Pray；　sir；　walk　in；〃　said　the　woman；　〃and　perhaps　I　can
  accommodate　you。〃
  〃Then　you　have　ale？〃　said　I。
  〃No；　sir；　not　a　drop；　but　perhaps　I　can　set　something　before　you
  which　you　will　like　as　well。〃
  〃That　I　question；〃　said　I；　〃however；　I　will　walk　in。〃
  The　woman　conducted　me　into　a　nice　little　parlour；　and；　leaving　me；
  presently　returned　with　a　bottle　and　tumbler　on　a　tray。
  〃Here；　sir；〃　said　she；　〃is　something；　which　though　not　ale；　I　hope
  you　will　be　able　to　drink。〃
  〃What　is　it？〃　said　I。
  〃It　is　…；　sir；　and　better　never　was　drunk。〃
  I　tasted　it；　it　was　terribly　strong。　　Those　who　wish　for　either
  whisky　or　brandy　far　above　proof；　should　always　go　to　a　temperance
  house。
  I　told　the　woman　to　bring　me　some　water；　and　she　brought　me　a　jug
  of　water　cold　from　the　spring。　　With　a　little　of　the　contents　of
  the　bottle；　and　a　deal　of　the　contents　of　the　jug；　I　made　myself　a
  beverage　tolerable　enough；　a　poor　substitute；　however；　to　a　genuine
  Englishman　for　his　proper　drink；　the　liquor　which；　according　to　the
  Edda；　is　called　by　men　ale；　and　by　the　gods　beer。
  I　asked　the　woman　whether　she　could　read；　she　told　me　that　she
  could；　both　Welsh　and　English；　she　likewise　informed　me　that　she
  had　several　books　in　both　languages。　　I　begged　her　to　show　me　some；
  whereupon　she　brought　me　some　half　dozen；　and　placing　them　on　the
  table　left　me　to　myself。　　Amongst　the　books　was　a　volume　of　poems
  in　Welsh；　written　by　Robert　Williams　of　Betws　Fawr；　styled　in
  poetic　language；　Gwilym　Du　O　Eifion。　　The　poems　were　chiefly　on
  religious　subjects。　　The　following　lines　which　I　copied　from
  〃Pethau　a　wnaed　mewn　Gardd；〃　or　things　written　in　a　garden；
  appeared　to　me　singularly　beautiful：…
  〃Mewn　gardd　y　cafodd　dyn　ei　dwyllo；
  Mewn　gardd　y　rhoed　oddewid　iddo；
  Mewn　gardd　bradychwyd　Iesu　hawddgar；
  Mewn　gardd　amdowyd　ef　mewn　daear。〃
  〃In　a　garden　the　first　of　our　race　was　deceived；
  In　a　garden　the　promise　of　grace　he　received；
  In　a　garden　was　Jesus　betrayed　to　His　doom；
  In　a　garden　His　body　was　laid　in　the　tomb。〃
  Having　finished　my　glass　of　〃summut〃　and　my　translation；　I　called
  to　the　woman　and　asked　her　what　I　had　to　pay。
  〃Nothing；〃　said　she；　〃if　you　had　had　a　cup　of　tea　I　should　have
  charged　sixpence。〃
  〃You　make　no　charge；〃　said　I；　〃for　what　I　have　had？〃
  〃Nothing；　sir；　nothing。〃
  〃But　suppose；〃　said　I；　〃I　were　to　give　you　something　by　way　of
  present　would　you　…　〃　and　here　I　stopped。　　The　woman　smiled。
  〃Would　you　fling　it　in　my　face？〃　said　I。
  〃Oh　dear；　no；　sir；〃　said　the　woman；　smiling　more　than　before。
  I　gave　her　something　…　it　was　not　a　sixpence　…　at　which　she　not
  only　smiled　but　curtseyed；　then　bidding　her　farewell　I　went　out　of
  the　door。
  I　was　about　to　take　the　broad　road；　which　led　round　the　hill；　when
  she　inquired　of　me　where　I　was　going；　and　on　my　telling　her　to
  Festiniog；　she　advised　me　to　go　by　a　by…road　behind　the　house　which
  led　over　the　hill。
  〃If　you　do；　sir；〃　said　she；　〃you　will　see　some　of　the　finest
  prospects　in　Wales；　get　into　the　high　road　again；　and　save　a　mile
  and　a　half　of　way。〃
  I　told　the　temperance　woman　I　would　follow　her　advice；　whereupon
  she　led　me　behind　the　house；　pointed　to　a　rugged　path；　which　with　a
  considerable　ascent　seemed　to　lead　towards　the　north；　and　after
  giving　certain　directions；　not　very　intelligible；　returned　to　her
  temperance　temple。
  CHAPTER　XLVII
  Spanish　Proverb　…　The　Short　Cut　…　Predestinations　…　Rhys　Goch　…　Old
  Crusty　…　Undercharging　…　The　Cavalier。
  THE　Spaniards　have　a　proverb：　　〃No　hay　atajo　sin　trabajo；〃　there　is
  no　short　cut　without　a　deal　of　labour。　　This　proverb　is　very　true；
  as　I　know　by　my　own　experience；　for　I　never　took　a　short　cut　in　my
  life；　and　I　have　taken　many　in　my　wanderings；　without　falling　down；
  getting　into　a　slough；　or　losing　my　way。　　On　the　present　occasion　I
  lost　my　way；　and　wandered　about　for　nearly　two　hours　amidst　rocks；
  thickets；　and　precipices；　without　being　able　to　find　it。　　The
  temperance　woman；　however；　spoke　nothing　but　the　truth　when　she
  said　I　should　see　some　fine　scenery。　　From　a　rock　I　obtained　a
  wonderful　view　of　the　Wyddfa　towering　in　sublime　grandeur　in　the
  west；　and　of　the　beautiful；　but　spectral；　Knicht　shooting　up　high
  in　the　north；　and　from　the　top　of　a　bare　hill　I　obtained　a　prospect
  to　th