第 61 节
作者:随便看看      更新:2021-02-25 00:47      字数:9321
  I passed。  The torrent attended me on my right hand the whole way
  to Beth Gelert。  The descent now became very rapid。  I passed a
  pine wood on my left; and proceeded for more than two miles at a
  tremendous rate。  I then came to a wood … this wood was just above
  Beth Gelert … proceeding in the direction of a black mountain; I
  found myself amongst houses; at the bottom of a valley。  I passed
  over a bridge; and inquiring of some people whom I met the way to
  the inn; was shown an edifice brilliantly lighted up; which I
  entered。
  CHAPTER XLV
  Inn at Beth Gelert … Delectable Company … Lieutenant P…。
  THE inn or hotel at Beth Gelert was a large and commodious
  building; and was anything but thronged with company; what company;
  however; there was; was disagreeable enough; perhaps more so than
  that in which I had been the preceding evening; which was composed
  of the scum of Manchester and Liverpool; the company amongst which
  I now was; consisted of seven or eight individuals; two of them
  were military puppies; one a tallish fellow; who though evidently
  upwards of thirty; affected the airs of a languishing girl; and
  would fain have made people believe that he was dying of ENNUI and
  lassitude。  The other was a short spuddy fellow; with a broad ugly
  face and with spectacles on his nose; who talked very
  consequentially about 〃the service〃 and all that; but whose tone of
  voice was coarse and his manner that of an under…bred person; then
  there was an old fellow about sixty…five; a civilian; with a red
  carbuncled face; he was father of the spuddy military puppy; on
  whom he occasionally cast eyes of pride and almost adoration; and
  whose sayings he much applauded; especially certain DOUBLES
  ENTENDRES; to call them by no harsher term; directed to a fat girl;
  weighing some fifteen stone; who officiated in the coffee…room as
  waiter。  Then there was a creature to do justice to whose
  appearance would require the pencil of a Hogarth。  He was about
  five feet three inches and a quarter high; and might have weighed;
  always provided a stone weight had been attached to him; about half
  as much as the fat girl。  His countenance was cadaverous and was
  eternally agitated by something between a grin and a simper。  He
  was dressed in a style of superfine gentility; and his skeleton
  fingers were bedizened with tawdry rings。  His conversation was
  chiefly about his bile and his secretions; the efficacy of licorice
  in producing a certain effect; and the expediency of changing one's
  linen at least three times a day; though had he changed his six; I
  should have said that the purification of the last shirt would have
  been no sinecure to the laundress。  His accent was decidedly
  Scotch:  he spoke familiarly of Scott and one or two other Scotch
  worthies; and more than once insinuated that he was a member of
  Parliament。  With respect to the rest of the company I say nothing;
  and for the very sufficient reason that; unlike the above described
  batch; they did not seem disposed to be impertinent towards me。
  Eager to get out of such society I retired early to bed。  As I left
  the room the diminutive Scotch individual was describing to the old
  simpleton; who on the ground of the other's being a 〃member;〃 was
  listening to him with extreme attention; how he was labouring under
  an access of bile owing to his having left his licorice somewhere
  or other。  I passed a quiet night; and in the morning breakfasted;
  paid my bill; and departed。  As I went out of the coffee…room the
  spuddy; broad…faced military puppy with spectacles was vociferating
  to the languishing military puppy; and to his old simpleton of a
  father; who was listening to him with his usual look of undisguised
  admiration; about the absolute necessity of kicking Lieutenant P…
  out of the army for having disgraced 〃the service。〃  Poor P…; whose
  only crime was trying to defend himself with fist and candlestick
  from the manual attacks of his brutal messmates。
  CHAPTER XLVI
  The Valley of Gelert … Legend of the Dog … Magnificent Scenery …
  The Knicht … Goats in Wales … The Frightful Crag … Temperance House
  … Smile and Curtsey。
  BETH GELERT is situated in a valley surrounded by huge hills; the
  most remarkable of which are Moel Hebog and Cerrig Llan; the former
  fences it on the south; and the latter; which is quite black and
  nearly perpendicular; on the east。  A small stream rushes through
  the valley; and sallies forth by a pass at its south…eastern end。
  The valley is said by some to derive its name of Beddgelert; which
  signifies the grave of Celert; from being the burial…place of
  Celert; a British saint of the sixth century; to whom Llangeler in
  Carmarthenshire is believed to have been consecrated; but the
  popular and most universally received tradition is that it has its
  name from being the resting…place of a faithful dog called Celert
  or Gelert; killed by his master; the warlike and celebrated
  Llywelyn ab Jorwerth; from an unlucky misapprehension。  Though the
  legend is known to most people; I shall take the liberty of
  relating it。
  Llywelyn during his contests with the English had encamped with a
  few followers in the valley; and one day departed with his men on
  an expedition; leaving his infant son in a cradle in his tent;
  under the care of his hound Gelert; after giving the child its fill
  of goat's milk。  Whilst he was absent a wolf from the neighbouring
  mountains; in quest of prey; found its way into the tent; and was
  about to devour the child; when the watchful dog interfered; and
  after a desperate conflict; in which the tent was torn down;
  succeeded in destroying the monster。  Llywelyn returning at evening
  found the tent on the ground; and the dog; covered with blood;
  sitting beside it。  Imagining that the blood with which Gelert was
  besmeared was that of his own son devoured by the animal to whose
  care he had confided him; Llywelyn in a paroxysm of natural
  indignation forthwith transfixed the faithful creature with his
  spear。  Scarcely; however; had he done so when his ears were
  startled by the cry of a child from beneath the fallen tent; and
  hastily removing the canvas he found the child in its cradle; quite
  uninjured; and the body of an enormous wolf; frightfully torn and
  mangled; lying near。  His breast was now filled with conflicting
  emotions; joy for the preservation of his son; and grief for the
  fate of his dog; to whom he forthwith hastened。  The poor animal
  was not quite dead; but presently expired; in the act of licking
  his master's hand。  Llywelyn mourned over him as over a brother;
  buried him with funeral honours in the valley; and erected a tomb
  over him as over a hero。  From that time the valley was called Beth
  Gelert。
  Such is the legend; which; whether true or fictitious; is
  singularly beautiful and affecting。
  The tomb; or what is said to be the tomb; of Gelert; stands in a
  beautiful meadow just below the precipitous side of Cerrig Llan:
  it consists of a large slab lying on its side; and two upright
  stones。  It is shaded by a weeping willow; and is surrounded by a
  hexagonal paling。  Who is there acquainted with the legend; whether
  he believes that the dog lies beneath those stones or not; can
  visit them without exclaiming with a sigh; 〃Poor Gelert!〃
  After wandering about the valley for some time; and seeing a few of
  its wonders; I inquired my way for Festiniog; and set off for that
  place。  The way to it is through the pass at the south…east end of
  the valley。  Arrived at the entrance of the pass I turned round to
  look at the scenery I was leaving behind me; the view which
  presented itself to my eyes was very grand and beautiful。  Before
  me lay the meadow of Gelert with the river flowing through it
  towards the pass。  Beyond the meadow the Snowdon range; on the
  right the mighty Cerrig Llan; on the left the equally mighty; but
  not quite so precipitous; Hebog。  Truly; the valley of Gelert is a
  wondrous valley … rivalling for grandeur and beauty any vale either
  in the Alps or Pyrenees。  After a long and earnest view I turned
  round again and proceeded on my way。
  Presently I came to a bridge bestriding the stream; which a man
  told me was called Pont Aber Glas Lyn; or the bridge of the
  debouchement of the grey lake。  I soon emerged from the pass; and
  after proceeding some way stopped again to admire the scenery。  To
  the west was the Wyddfa; full north was a stupendous range of
  rocks; behind them a conical peak seemingly rivalling the Wyddfa
  itself in altitude; between the rocks and the road; where I stood;
  was beautiful forest scenery。  I again went on; going round the
  side of a hill by a gentle ascent。  After a little time I again
  stopped to look about me。  There was the rich forest scenery to the
  north; behind it were the rocks and behind the rocks rose the
  wonderful conical hill impaling heaven; confronting it to the
  south…east; was a huge lumpish hill。  As I stood looking about me I
  saw a man coming across a field which sloped down to the road from
  a small house。  He presently reached me; stopped and smiled。  A
  more