第 28 节
作者:敏儿不觉      更新:2021-02-19 21:45      字数:9322
  no one can form an idea of anything equal to it on shore。  We
  were seated on the deck; women and all; in the serenest evening
  that can be imagined。  Not a single cloud presented itself to our
  view; and the sun himself was the only object which engrossed our
  whole attention。  He did indeed set with a majesty which is
  incapable of description; with which; while the horizon was yet
  blazing with glory; our eyes were called off to the opposite part
  to survey the moon; which was then at full; and which in rising
  presented us with the second object that this world hath offered
  to our vision。  Compared to these the pageantry of theaters; or
  splendor of courts; are sights almost below the regard of
  children。  We did not return from the deck till late in the
  evening; the weather being inexpressibly pleasant; and so warm
  that even my old distemper perceived the alteration of the
  climate。  There was indeed a swell; but nothing comparable to
  what we had felt before; and it affected us on the deck much less
  than in the cabin。
  Friday。The calm continued till sun…rising; when the wind
  likewise arose; but unluckily for us it came from a wrong
  quarter; it was S。S。E。; which is that very wind which Juno would
  have solicited of Aeolus; had Gneas been in our latitude bound
  for Lisbon。
  The captain now put on his most melancholy aspect; and resumed
  his former opinion that he was bewitched。  He declared with great
  solemnity that this was worse and worse; for that a wind directly
  in his teeth was worse than no wind at all。  Had we pursued the
  course which the wind persuaded us to take we had gone directly
  for Newfoundland; if we had not fallen in with Ireland in our
  way。  Two ways remained to avoid this; one was to put into a port
  of Galicia; the other; to beat to the westward with as little
  sail as possible:  and this was our captain's election。
  As for us; poor passengers; any port would have been welcome to
  us; especially; as not only our fresh provisions; except a great
  number of old ducks and fowls; but even our bread was come to an
  end; and nothing but sea…biscuit remained; which I could not
  chew。  So that now for the first time in my life I saw what it
  was to want a bit of bread。
  The wind however was not so unkind as we had apprehended; but;
  having declined with the sun; it changed at the approach of the
  moon; and became again favorable to us; though so gentle that the
  next day's observation carried us very little to the southward of
  Cape Finisterre。  This evening at six the wind; which had been
  very quiet all day; rose very high; and continuing in our favor
  drove us seven knots an hour。
  This day we saw a sail; the only one; as I heard of; we had seen
  in our whole passage through the bay。  I mention this on account
  of what appeared to me somewhat extraordinary。  Though she was at
  such a distance that I could only perceive she was a ship; the
  sailors discovered that she was a snow; bound to a port in Galicia。
  Sunday。After prayers; which our good captain read on the deck
  with an audible voice; and with but one mistake; of a lion for
  Elias; in the second lesson for this day; we found ourselves far
  advanced in 42 degrees; and the captain declared we should sup
  off Porte。  We had not much wind this day; but; as this was
  directly in our favor; we made it up with sail; of which we
  crowded all we had。  We went only at the rate of four miles an
  hour; but with so uneasy a motion; continuing rolling from side
  to side; that I suffered more than I had done in our whole
  voyage; my bowels being almost twisted out of my belly。  However;
  the day was very serene and bright; and the captain; who was in
  high spirits; affirmed he had never passed a pleasanter at sea。
  The wind continued so brisk that we ran upward of six knots an
  hour the whole night。
  Monday。In the morning our captain concluded that he was got
  into lat。 40 degrees; and was very little short of the
  Burlings; as they are called in the charts。  We came up with them
  at five in the afternoon; being the first land we had distinctly
  seen since we left Devonshire。  They consist of abundance of
  little rocky islands; a little distant from the shore; three of
  them only showing themselves above the water。
  Here the Portuguese maintain a kind of garrison; if we may allow
  it that name。  It consists of malefactors; who are banished
  hither for a term; for divers small offensesa policy which they
  may have copied from the Egyptians; as we may read in Diodorus
  Siculus。  That wise people; to prevent the corruption of good
  manners by evil communication; built a town on the Red Sea;
  whither they transported a great number of their criminals;
  having first set an indelible mark on them; to prevent their
  returning and mixing with the sober part of their citizens。
  These rocks lie about fifteen leagues northwest of Cape Roxent;
  or; as it is commonly called; the Rock of Lisbon; which we passed
  early the next morning。  The wind; indeed; would have carried us
  thither sooner; but the captain was not in a hurry; as he was to
  lose nothing by his delay。
  Tuesday。This is a very high mountain; situated on the northern
  side of the mouth of the river Tajo; which; rising about Madrid;
  in Spain; and soon becoming navigable for small craft; empties
  itself; after a long course; into the sea; about four leagues
  below Lisbon。
  On the summit of the rock stands a hermitage; which is now in the
  possession of an Englishman; who was formerly master of a vessel
  trading to Lisbon; and; having changed his religion and his
  manners; the latter of which; at least; were none of the best;
  betook himself to this place; in order to do penance for his
  sins。  He is now very old; and hath inhabited this hermitage for
  a great number of years; during which he hath received some
  countenance from the royal family; and particularly from the
  present queen dowager; whose piety refuses no trouble or expense
  by which she may make a proselyte; being used to say that the
  saving one soul would repay all the endeavors of her life。  Here
  we waited for the tide; and had the pleasure of surveying the
  face of the country; the soil of which; at this season; exactly
  resembles an old brick…kiln; or a field where the green sward is
  pared up and set a…burning; or rather a smoking; in little heaps
  to manure the land。  This sight will; perhaps; of all others;
  make an Englishman proud of; and pleased with; his own country;
  which in verdure excels; I believe; every other country。  Another
  deficiency here is the want of large trees; nothing above a shrub
  being here to be discovered in the circumference of many miles。
  At this place we took a pilot on board; who; being the first
  Portuguese we spoke to; gave us an instance of that religious
  observance which is paid by all nations to their laws; for;
  whereas it is here a capital offense to assist any person in
  going on shore from a foreign vessel before it hath been
  examined; and every person in it viewed by the magistrates of
  health; as they are called; this worthy pilot; for a very small
  reward; rowed the Portuguese priest to shore at this place;
  beyond which he did not dare to advance; and in venturing whither
  he had given sufficient testimony of love for his native country。
  We did not enter the Tajo till noon; when; after passing several
  old castles and other buildings which had greatly the aspect of
  ruins; we came to the castle of Bellisle; where we had a full
  prospect of Lisbon; and were; indeed; within three miles of it。
  Here we were saluted with a gun; which was a signal to pass no
  farther till we had complied with certain ceremonies which the
  laws of this country require to be observed by all ships which
  arrive in this port。  We were obliged then to cast anchor; and
  expect the arrival of the officers of the customs; without whose
  passport no ship must proceed farther than this place。
  Here likewise we received a visit from one of those magistrates
  of health before mentioned。  He refused to come on board the ship
  till every person in her had been drawn up on deck and personally
  viewed by him。  This occasioned some delay on my part; as it was
  not the work of a minute to lift me from the cabin to the deck。
  The captain thought my particular case might have been excused
  from this ceremony; and that it would be abundantly sufficient if
  the magistrate; who was obliged afterwards to visit the cabin;
  surveyed me there。  But this did not satisfy the magistrate's
  strict regard to his duty。  When he was told of my lameness; he
  called out; with a voice of authority; 〃Let him be brought up;〃
  and his orders were presently complied with。  He was; indeed; a
  person of great dignity; as well as of the most exact fidelity in
  the discharge of his trust。  Both which are the more admirable as
  his salary is less than thirty pounds English per annum。
  Before a ship hath been visited by o