第 34 节
作者:开了      更新:2021-02-19 01:06      字数:9322
  THE saying that 〃One…half of the world ignores how the other half
  lives〃 received for me an additional confirmation this last week;
  when I had the good fortune to meet again an old friend; now for
  some years retired from the stage; where she had by her charm and
  beauty; as well as by her singing; held all the Parisian world at
  her pretty feet。
  Our meeting was followed on her part by an invitation to take
  luncheon with her the next day; 〃to meet a few friends; and talk
  over old times。〃  So half…past twelve (the invariable hour for the
  〃second breakfast;〃 in France) the following day found me entering
  a shady drawing…room; where a few people were sitting in the cool
  half…light that strayed across from a canvas…covered balcony
  furnished with plants and low chairs。  Beyond one caught a glimpse
  of perhaps the gayest picture that the bright city of Paris offers;
  … the sweep of the Boulevard as it turns to the Rue Royale; the
  flower market; gay with a thousand colors in the summer sunshine;
  while above all the color and movement; rose; cool and gray; the
  splendid colonnade of the Madeleine。  The rattle of carriages; the
  roll of the heavy omnibuses and the shrill cries from the street
  below floated up; softened into a harmonious murmur that in no way
  interfered with our conversation; and is sweeter than the finest
  music to those who love their Paris。
  Five or six rooms EN SUITE opening on the street; and as many more
  on a large court; formed the apartment; where everything betrayed
  the ARTISTE and the singer。  The walls; hung with silk or tapestry;
  held a collection of original drawings and paintings; a fortune in
  themselves; the dozen portraits of our hostess in favorite roles
  were by men great in the art world; a couple of pianos covered with
  well…worn music and numberless photographs signed with names that
  would have made an autograph…fiend's mouth water。
  After a gracious; cooing welcome; more whispered than spoken; I was
  presented to the guests I did not know。  Before this ceremony was
  well over; two maids in black; with white caps; opened a door into
  the dining…room and announced luncheon。  As this is written on the
  theme that 〃people know too little how their neighbors live;〃 I
  give the MENU。  It may amuse my readers and serve; perhaps; as a
  little object lesson to those at home who imagine that quantity and
  not quality is of importance。
  Our gracious hostess had earned a fortune in her profession (and I
  am told that two CHEFS preside over her simple meals); so it was
  not a spirit of economy which dictated this simplicity。  At first;
  HORS D'OEUVRES were served; … all sorts of tempting little things;
  … very thin slices of ham; spiced sausages; olives and caviar; and
  eaten … not merely passed and refused。  Then came the one hot dish
  of the meal。  〃One!〃  I think I hear my reader exclaim。  Yes; my
  friend; but that one was a marvel in its way。  Chicken A
  L'ESPAGNOLE; boiled; and buried in rice and tomatoes cooked whole …
  a dish to be dreamed of and remembered in one's prayers and
  thanksgivings!  After at least two helpings each to this CHEF…
  D'OEUVRE; cold larded fillet and a meat pate were served with the
  salad。  Then a bit of cheese; a beaten cream of chocolate; fruit;
  and bon…bons。  For a drink we had the white wine from which
  champagne is made (by a chemical process and the addition of many
  injurious ingredients); in other words; a pure BRUT champagne with
  just a suggestion of sparkle at the bottom of your glass。  All the
  party then migrated together into the smoking…room for cigarettes;
  coffee; and a tiny glass of LIQUEUR。
  These details have been given at length; not only because the meal
  seemed to me; while I was eating it; to be worthy of whole columns
  of print; but because one of the besetting sins of our dear land is
  to serve a profusion of food no one wants and which the hostess
  would never have dreamed of ordering had she been alone。
  Nothing is more wearisome than to sit at table and see course after
  course; good; bad; and indifferent; served; after you have eaten
  what you want。  And nothing is more vulgar than to serve them; for
  either a guest refuses a great deal of the food and appears
  uncivil; or he must eat; and regret it afterwards。  If we ask
  people to a meal; it should be to such as we eat; as a general
  thing; ourselves; and such as they would have at home。  Otherwise
  it becomes ostentation and vulgarity。  Why should one be expelled
  to eat more than usual because a friend has been nice enough to ask
  one to take one's dinner with him; instead of eating it alone?  It
  is the being among friends that tempts; not the food; the fact at
  skilful waiters have been able to serve a dozen varieties of fish;
  flesh; and fowl during the time you were at table has added little
  to any one's pleasure。  On the contrary!  Half the time one eats
  from pure absence of mind; a number of most injurious mixtures and
  so prepares an awful to…morrow and the foundation of many
  complicated diseases。
  I see Smith and Jones daily at the club; where we dine cheerfully
  together on soup; a cut of the joint; a dessert; and drink a pint
  of claret。  But if either Mrs。 Smith or Mrs。 Jones asks me to
  dinner; we have eight courses and half as many wines; and Smith
  will say quite gravely to me; 〃Try this '75 'Perrier Jouet';〃 as if
  he were in the habit of drinking it daily。  It makes me smile; for
  he would as soon think of ordering a bottle of that wine at the
  club as he would think of ordering a flask of nectar。
  But to return to our 〃mutton。〃  As we had none of us eaten too much
  (and so become digesting machines); we were cheerful and sprightly。
  A little music followed and an author repeated some of his poetry。
  I noticed that during the hour before we broke up our hostess
  contrived to have a little talk with each of her guests; which she
  made quite personal; appearing for the moment as though the rest of
  the world did not exist for her; than which there is no more subtle
  flattery; and which is the act of a well…bred and appreciative
  woman。  Guests cannot be treated EN MASSE any more than food; to
  ask a man to your house is not enough。  He should be made to feel;
  if you wish him to go away with a pleasant remembrance of the
  entertainment; that his presence has in some way added to it and
  been a personal pleasure to his host。
  A good soul that all New York knew a few years ago; whose
  entertainments were as though the street had been turned into a
  SALON for the moment; used to go about among her guests saying;
  〃There have been one hundred and seventy…five people here this
  Thursday; ten more than last week;〃 with such a satisfied smile;
  that you felt that she had little left to wish for; and found
  yourself wondering just which number you represented in her mind。
  When you entered she must have murmured a numeral to herself as she
  shook your hand。
  There is more than one house in New York where I have grave doubts
  if the host and hostess are quite sure of my name when I dine
  there; after an abstracted welcome; they rarely put themselves out
  to entertain their guests。  Black coats and evening dresses
  alternate in pleasing perspective down the long line of their
  table。  Their gold plate is out; and the CHEF has been allowed to
  work his own sweet will; so they give themselves no further
  trouble。
  Why does not some one suggest to these amphitrions to send fifteen
  dollars in prettily monogrammed envelopes to each of their friends;
  requesting them to expend it on a dinner。  The compliment would be
  quite as personal; and then the guests might make up little parties
  to suit themselves; which would be much more satisfactory than
  going 〃in〃 with some one chosen at hazard from their host's
  visiting list; and less fatiguing to that gentleman and his family。
  CHAPTER 33 … The Introducer
  WE all suffer more or less from the perennial 〃freshness〃 of
  certain acquaintances … tiresome people whom a misguided Providence
  has endowed with over…flowing vitality and an irrepressible love of
  their fellowmen; and who; not content with looking on life as a
  continual 〃spree;〃 insist on making others happy in spite of
  themselves。  Their name is legion and their presence ubiquitous;
  but they rarely annoy as much as when disguised under the mask of
  the 〃Introducer。〃  In his clutches one is helpless。  It is
  impossible to escape from such philanthropic tyranny。  He; in his
  freshness; imagines that to present human beings to each other is
  his mission in this world and moves through life making these
  platonic unions; oblivious; as are other match…makers; of the
  misery he creates。
  If you are out for a quiet stroll; one of these genial gentlemen is
  sure to come bounding up; and without notice or warnin