第 18 节
作者:两块      更新:2021-02-18 22:15      字数:9322
  A man who entertains in this wayand; alas; how few do
  not!is like a fellow who would borrow his neighbour's
  coat to make a show in; or a lady who flaunts in the
  diamonds from next doora humbug; in a word; and amongst
  the Snobs he must be set down。
  A man who goes out of his natural sphere of society to
  ask Lords; Generals; Aldermen; and other persons of
  fashion; but is niggardly of his hospitality towards his
  own equals; is a Dinner…giving Snob。  My dear friend;
  Jack Tufthunt; for example; knows ONE Lord whom he met at
  a watering…place: old Lord Mumble; who is as toothless as
  a three…months…old baby; and as mum as an undertaker; and
  as dull aswell; we will not particularise。  Tufthunt
  never has a dinner now but you see this solemn old
  toothless patrician at the right…hand of Mrs。 Tufthunt
  Tufthunt is a Dinner…giving Snob。
  Old Livermore; old Soy; old Chutney; the East Indian
  Director; old Cutler; the Surgeon; &c。;that society of
  old fogies; in fine; who give each other dinners round
  and round; and dine for the mere purpose of guttling
  these; again; are Dinner…giving Snobs。
  Again; my friend Lady MacScrew; who has three grenadier
  flunkeys in lace round the table; and serves up a scrag…
  of…mutton on silver; and dribbles you out bad sherry and
  port by thimblefuls; is a Dinner…giving Snob of the other
  sort; and I confess; for my part; I would rather dine
  with old Livermore or old Soy than with her Ladyship。
  Stinginess is snobbish。  Ostentation is snobbish。  Too
  great profusion is snobbish。  Tuft…hunting is snobbish。
  But I own there are people more snobbish than all those
  whose defects are above mentioned: viz。; those
  individuals who can; and don't give dinners at all。  The
  man without hospitality shall never sit SUB IISDEM
  TRABIBUS with ME。  Let the sordid wretch go mumble his
  bone alone!
  What; again; is true hospitality?  Alas; my dear friends
  and brother Snobs! how little do we meet of it after all!
  Are the motives PURE which induce your friends to ask you
  to dinner?  This has often come across me。  Does your
  entertainer want something from you?  For instance; I am
  not of a suspicious turn; but it IS a fact that when
  Hookey is bringing out a new work; he asks the critics
  all round to dinner; that when Walker has got his picture
  ready for the Exhibition; he somehow grows exceedingly
  hospitable; and has his friends of the press to a quiet
  cutlet and a glass of Sillery。  Old Hunks; the miser; who
  died lately (leaving his money to his housekeeper) lived
  many years on the fat of the land; by simply taking down;
  at all his friends'; the names and Christian names OF ALL
  THE CHILDREN。  But though you may have your own opinion
  about the hospitality of your acquaintances; and though
  men who ask you from sordid motives are most decidedly
  Dinner…giving Snobs; it is best not to inquire into their
  motives too keenly。  Be not too curious about the mouth
  of a gift…horse。  After all; a man does not intend to
  insult you by asking you to dinner。
  Though; for that matter; I know some characters about
  town who actually consider themselves injured and
  insulted if the dinner or the company is not to their
  liking。  There is Guttleton; who dines at home off a
  shilling's…worth of beef from the cookshop; but if he is
  asked to dine at a house where there are not pease at the
  end of May; or cucumbers in March along with the turbot;
  thinks himself insulted by being invited。  'Good Ged!'
  says he; 'what the deuce do the Forkers mean by asking ME
  to a family dinner?  I can get mutton at home;' or 'What
  infernal impertinence it is of the Spooners to get
  ENTREES from the pastrycook's; and fancy that I am to be
  deceived with their stories about their French cook!'
  Then; again; there is Jack PuddingtonI saw that honest
  fellow t'other day quite in a rage; because; as chance
  would have it; Sir John Carver asked him to meet the very
  same party he had met at Colonel Cramley's the day
  before; and he had not got up a new set of stories to
  entertain them。  Poor Dinner…giving Snobs! you don't know
  what small thanks you get for all your pains and money!
  How we Dining…out Snobs sneer at your cookery; and pooh…
  pooh your old hock; and are incredulous about your four…
  and…six…penny champagne; and know that the side…dishes of
  to…day are RECHAUFFES from the dinner of yesterday; and
  mark how certain dishes are whisked off the table
  untasted; so that they may figure at the banquet
  tomorrow。  Whenever; for my part; I see the head man
  particularly anxious to ESCAMOTER a fricandeau or a
  blanc…mange; I always call out; and insist upon
  massacring it with a spoon。  All this sort of conduct
  makes one popular with the Dinner…giving Snob。  One
  friend of mine; I know; has made a prodigious sensation
  in good society; by announcing apropos of certain dishes
  when offered to him; that he never eats aspic except at
  Lord Tittup's; and that Lady Jimmy's CHEF is the only man
  in London who knows how to dressFILET EN SERPENTEAUor
  SUPREME DE VOLAILLE AUX TRUFFES。
  CHAPTER XX
  DINNER…GIVING SNOBS FURTHER CONSIDERED
  If my friends would but follow the present prevailing
  fashion; I think they ought to give me a testimonial for
  the paper on Dinner…giving Snobs; which I am now writing。
  What do you say now to a handsome comfortable dinner…
  service of plate (NOT including plates; for I hold silver
  plates to be sheer wantonness; and would almost as soon
  think of silver teacups); a couple of neat teapots; a
  coffeepot; trays; &c。; with a little inscription to my
  wife; Mrs。 Snob; and a half…score of silver tankards for
  the little Snoblings; to glitter on the homely table
  where they partake of their quotidian mutton?
  If I had my way; and my plans could be carried out;
  dinner…giving would increase as much on the one hand as
  dinner…giving Snobbishness would diminish:to my mind
  the most amiable part of the work lately published by my
  esteemed friend (if upon a very brief acquaintance he
  will allow me to call him so); Alexis Soyer; the
  regeneratorwhat he (in his noble style) would call the
  most succulent; savoury; and elegant passagesare those
  which relate; not to the grand banquets and ceremonial
  dinners; but to his 'dinners at home。'
  The 'dinner at home' ought to be the centre of the whole
  system of dinner…giving。  Your usual style of mealthat
  is; plenteous; comfortable; and in its perfectionshould
  be that to which you welcome your friends; as it is that
  of which you partake yourself。
  For; towards what woman in the world do I entertain a
  higher regard than towards the beloved partner of my
  existence; Mrs。 Snob?  Who should have a greater place in
  my affections than her six brothers (three or four of
  whom we are pretty sure will favour us with their company
  at seven o'clock); or her angelic mother; my own valued
  mother…in…law?for whom; finally; would I wish to cater
  more generously than for your very humble servant; the
  present writer?  Now; nobody supposes that the Birmingham
  plate is had out; the disguised carpet…beaters introduced
  to the exclusion of the neat parlour…maid; the miserable
  ENTREES from the pastrycook's ordered in; and the
  children packed off (as it is supposed) to the nursery;
  but really only to the staircase; down which they slide
  during the dinner…time; waylaying the dishes as they come
  out; and fingering the round bumps on the jellies; and
  the forced…meat balls in the soup;nobody; I say;
  supposes that a dinner at home is characterized by the
  horrible ceremony; the foolish makeshifts; the mean pomp
  and ostentation which distinguish our banquets on grand
  field…days。
  Such a notion is monstrous。  I would as soon think of
  having my dearest Bessy sitting opposite me in a turban
  and bird of paradise; and showing her jolly mottled arms
  out of blond sleeves in her famous red satin gown: ay; or
  of having Mr。 Toole every day; in a white waistcoat; at
  my back; shouting; 'Silence FAW the chair!'
  Now; if this be the case; if the Brummagem…plate pomp and
  the processions of disguised footmen are odious and
  foolish in everyday life; why not always?  Why should
  Jones and I; who are in the middle rank; alter the modes
  of our being to assume an ECLAT which does not belong to
  usto entertain our friends; who (if we are worth
  anything and honest fellows at bottom;) are men of the
  middle rank too; who are not in the least deceived by our
  temporary splendour; and who play off exactly the same
  absurd trick upon us when they ask us to dine?
  If it be pleasant to dine with your friends; as all
  persons with good stomachs and kindly hearts will; I
  presume; allow it to be; it is better to dine twice than
  to dine once。  It is impossible for men of small means to
  be continually spending five…and…twenty or thirty
  shillings on each friend who sits down to their table。
  People dine for less。  I my