第 71 节
作者:双曲线      更新:2022-04-14 11:08      字数:9322
  combined all that they desired。 Knowing their strict moral principles; I
  had suggested an 〃old woman〃 as the successor of Christina; as I
  explained to them that; to be in harmony with the establishment; a woman
  of a 〃certain age〃 as general servant would not detract from the
  religious character of the place。 However I might argue; the old monk
  hesitated; but while the monk wavered; Christina's 〃monkey was up;〃 and;
  taking her child in her arms; she started off without giving a 〃month's
  notice;〃 and fairly left the monastery; with monks; priests; deacons;
  servants and the dogs all aghast and barking。 There was nobody to wash
  the linen; to bake the bread; to sweep the rooms; to cook the dinner; to
  mend the clothes! Christina was gone; and the gentle sex was no longer
  represented in the monastery of Trooditissa。
  I was sorry for Christina; but I was glad the child was gone; although I
  pitied the poor abandoned and neglected little creature with all my
  heart。 As a rule; 〃maids of all work〃 should not be mothers; but if they
  are; they should endeavour to care for the unfortunate child。 This
  wretched little thing was about two years olda girl; its eyes were
  nearly closed with inflammation caused by dirt and neglect; it was
  naked; with the exception of a filthy rag that hung in tatters scarcely
  below its hips; and as its ill…tempered and over…worked mother
  alternately raved; or cried; the child; which even at this age depended
  mainly upon her nursing for its food; joined in a perpetual yell; which
  at length terminated in a faint and wearied moan; until it laid itself
  down upon the bare; hard stones; and fell asleep。 It was a sad picture
  of neglect and misery; the shepherd's pretty children shunned it; and in
  its abandoned solitude the little creature had to amuse itself。 The face
  looked like that of an old careworn person who had lost all pleasure in
  the world; and the child wandered about alone and uncared for; its only
  plaything was my good…tempered dog Wise; who allowed himself to be
  pulled about and teased in the most patient manner。 I cured the child's
  eyes after some days' attention; and my wife had it washed; and made it
  decent clothes。 This little unusual care; with a few kind words in a
  strange language only interpreted by a smile; attracted the poor thing
  to the tent; where it would sit for hours; until it at length found
  solace in the child's great refuge; sleep。 It would always follow Lady
  Baker to and fro along the only level walk we had; from the tent to the
  running spring; and would sit down by her side directly she arrived at
  our favourite seata large flat rock looking down upon a precipitous
  descent to the ravine some 500 feet below; and commanding a view of the
  low country and the distant sea。 It was an obstinate and perverse little
  creature; and it insisted upon climbing upon rocks and standing upon the
  extreme edge overhanging a precipice。 If it had been the loved and only
  offspring of fond parents; heiress to a large estate; it would of course
  have tumbled over; in the absence of nurses and a throng of careful
  attendants; but never having been cared for since its birth; it
  possessed an instinctive knowledge of self…preservation; and declined to
  relieve its mother of an extra anxiety。 It was an agreeable change to
  lose the sound of a child's constant wailing; and I suggested to the
  monks that its presence was hardly in accordance with the severe aspect
  of the establishment。 There was some mystery connected with it of which
  I am still ignorant; as I never ask questions; but it is at the least
  ill…judged and thoughtless on the part of 〃maids of all work〃 to engage
  themselves to any situation where the kissing of a rock; or a holy
  effigy; may lead to complications。 It was of no use to moralise;
  Christina was gone; together with the child; there was absolute quiet in
  the monastery; neither the scolding of the mother; nor the crying of an
  infant; was heard。 The monks looked more austere than ever; and remained
  in unwashed linen; until they at length succeeded in engaging a charming
  substitute in a middle…aged maid of all work of seventy…five!
  About the 20th July the swallows disappeared; and I have no idea to what
  portion of the world they would migrate at this season。 In the low
  country the heat is excessive; and even at the altitude of Trooditissa
  the average; since the 1st of the month; had been at 7 A。M。 70。7
  degrees3 P。M。 77。3 degrees。
  The birds that had sung so cheerfully upon our arrival had become
  silent。 There was a general absence of the feathered tribe; but
  occasionally a considerable number of hoopoes and jays had appeared for
  a few days; and had again departed; as though changing their migrations;
  and resting for a time upon the cool mountains。
  I frequently rambled among the highest summits with my dogs; but there
  was a distressing and unaccountable absence of game; in addition to
  which there was no scent; as the barren rocks were heated in the sun
  like bricks taken from the kiln。 The under…growth up to 4500 feet
  afforded both food and covert for hares; but they were very scarce。 A
  peculiar species of dwarf prickly broom covers the ground in some
  places; and the young shoots are eagerly devoured by goats; this spreads
  horizontally; and grows in such dense masses about one foot from the
  surface that it will support the weight of a man。
  When grubbed up by the root it forms an impervious mat about three or
  four feet in diameter; and supplies an excellent door to the entrance of
  a garden; to prevent the incursions of goats or fowls。 The Berberris
  grew in large quantities; which; together with the foliage of the dwarf
  ilex; is the goat's favourite food。 Not far from the village of
  Prodomos; upon the neighbouring heights; I found; for the first time in
  Cyprus; the juniper; which appeared to be kept low by the constant
  grazing of the numerous herds。
  The walking over the mountains is most fatiguing; and utterly
  destructive to boots; owing to the interminable masses of sharp rocks
  and stones of all sizes; which quite destroy the pleasure of a
  lengthened stroll。 The views from the various elevated ridges are
  exceedingly beautiful; and exhibit the numerous villages surrounded by
  vineyards snugly clustered in obscure dells among the mountains at great
  elevations above the sea。 Prodomos is about 4300 feet above the level;
  and can be easily distinguished by the foliage of numerous spreading
  walnut…trees and the large amount of cultivation by which it is
  surrounded。
  There was no difficulty in gaining the highest point of the island from
  our camp; as a zigzag rocky path led to the top of a ridge about 600
  feet directly above the monastery; which ascended with varying
  inclinations to the summit of Troodos; about 2100 feet above
  Trooditissa; by the maps 6590 feet above the sea; but hardly so much by
  recent measurement。
  The moufflon; or wild sheep; exists in Cyprus; but in the absence of
  protection they have been harassed at all seasons by the natives; who
  have no idea of sparing animals during the breeding season。 The present
  government have protected them by a total prohibition; under a penalty
  of ten pounds to be inflicted upon any person discovered in killing
  them。 In the absence of all keepers or guardians of the forests; it
  would be difficult to prove a case; and I have no doubt that the natives
  still attempt the sport; although from the extreme wariness of the
  animals they are most difficult to approach。 The authorities should
  employ some dependable sportsman to shoot a certain number of rams which
  are now in undue proportion; as the ewes with young lambs have been an
  easier prey to the unsparing Cypriotes。
  Absurd opinions have been expressed concerning the numbers of moufflon
  now remaining upon the island; and it would be quite impossible to
  venture upon a conjecture; as there is a very large area of the
  mountains perfectly wild and unoccupied to the west of Kyka monastery;
  extending to Poli…ton…Khrysokus; upon which the animals are said to be
  tolerably numerous。 There are some upon the Troodos range; but from all
  accounts they do not exceed fifteen。
  On 2nd July I started at 4 A。M。 with a shepherd lad for the highest
  point of Troodos; hoping by walking carefully to see moufflon among some
  of the numerous ravines near the summit; which are seldom invaded by the
  flocks of goats and their attendants。 I took a small rifle with me as a
  companion which is seldom absent in my walks; and although I should have
  rigidly respected the government prohibition in the case of ewes; or
  even of rams at a long shot that might have been uncertain and
  hazardous; I should at the same time have regarded a moufflon with good
  horns at a range under 150 yards; in the Abrahamic light of 〃a ram
  caught in a thicket〃 that had been placed in my way for the purpose of
  affording me a specimen。
  On arrival at the top of the ridge above the monastery the view was
  superb。 We looked down a couple of thousand feet into deep and narrow
  valleys rich in vineyards; the mountains rose in dark masses upon the
  western side; covered with pine forests; which at this distance did not
  exhibit the mutilations of the axe。 At