第 59 节
作者:双曲线      更新:2022-04-14 11:08      字数:9322
  articles being fixed at a common standard! According to this absurd rule
  inferior mutton would fetch an equal price with the best quality: the
  natural consequence ensued; that only inferior meat was introduced; to
  the exclusion of all other。 The supply of fish was extremely irregular;
  and they were generally small and dear。 Upon some occasions we purchased
  good red mullet; also a larger fish of the bass species; but there were
  only a few fishermen; who required an opposition to induce activity and
  moderate prices。 Their nets were made of exceedingly fine twine; and the
  smallness of the mesh denoted a scarcity of the larger species of fish。
  A number of Maltese settlers were arriving; to whom lands had been
  granted by the government in the neighbourhood of Limasol; this
  excellent arrangement will have the effect of infusing a new spirit
  among the people by the introduction of fresh blood; and the well…known
  fishermen of Malta will of themselves be a boon to the large towns;
  where a regular demand may be depended upon at a reasonable price。
  There was nothing to induce a longer stay at Limasol; and I resolved
  upon Trooditissa monastery as the position for a mountain residence
  during the summer months。 Upon Kiepert's map; which is the best I have
  seen of Cyprus; this point was placed among the angles in the various
  crests and ridges of the Troodos mountain; and was marked by measurement
  as 4340 feet above the sea…level。 The new government road extended from
  Limasol to Platraes; from which a good mule…path led to the camp
  prepared for the 20th Regiment and the Royal Engineers at an altitude of
  5740 feet。 It appeared to me that in north latitude 35 degrees this was
  an unnecessary elevation。 My old residence at Newera Ellia in Ceylon was
  6210 feet above the sea in north latitude 6 degrees 30'; and in that low
  latitude we had sharp frosts at night。 Any heights approaching 6000 feet
  in north latitude 35 degrees would; I imagined; become disagreeably
  chilly in the morning and evening; at seasons when in the low country
  the heat would still be too oppressive for a return from the mountain
  sanatorium。
  The mean temperature at Limasol from 1st May to 18th had been at 7 A。M。
  65 degrees; at 3 P。M。 78。6 degrees; during which interval there had been
  sudden variations of temperature; ranging from a minimum of 56 degrees
  to 84 degrees。 On the 11th May; having engaged twenty…three mules for
  our tents; baggage; and party; we started from Limasol for Trooditissa。
  The dog Merry; that had been bitten by the snake; had lain for days in a
  state of stupor; black and swollen; I had poured quantities of olive…oil
  down his throat; as he could not eat; and at length I gave him a dose of
  two grains of calomel; with three grains of emetic tartar。 After this he
  slowly recovered; the ear that was bitten mortified; and was cut off;
  but the dog was sufficiently restored to accompany us upon the march;
  together with his companion Wise。 We were now about to enter the great
  vine…growing district of Cyprus; which produces the large exportations
  that form the chief industry of Limasol。
  At a distance of a mile from our camp we entered the new government road
  which connected Limasol with Platraes; thirty miles distant。 The country
  quickly assumed an agreeable character; undulations and watercourses
  were more or less covered with trees; and the road scarped out of the
  steep sides exhibited the cretaceous formation similar to that between
  Larnaca and Lefkosia。 Wild lavender was just blooming upon many portions
  of the way; while along the rocky courses of ravines the oleanders were
  in the richest blossom。 The road was furnished with mile…posts; and the
  mules ambled along at a little more than five miles an hour。 I found
  considerable fault in the low gradients (one in thirty); which had
  produced a road unnecessary for the vehicles of the country; at a
  proportionate outlay; it was altogether too good; and would have been
  excellent trotting…ground for a light phaeton and pair。 As there was no
  such vehicle in the island; the beautifully traced highway exhibited a
  model of engineering that was scarcely appreciated by the natives; who
  invariably took the short and direct cuts to avoid the circuitous
  zigzags in descending the numerous valleys and in rounding the deep
  ravines。 After a ride of twelve miles through a beautiful country; well
  wooded; and comprising a succession of wild hills and deep gorges; which
  formed torrents in the wet season; we arrived at a river flowing in a
  clear but extremely shallow and narrow stream beneath cliffs of
  cretaceous limestone。 The banks were richly clad with rosy oleanders;
  myrtles; mastic shrubs; and the shade of several fine old plane…trees in
  full foliage invited us at once to halt immediately upon the edge of the
  rippling stream。 This spot was known as Zigu; where an ancient stone
  bridge; with pointed arches; crossed the ravine about a hundred paces
  above the new wooden bridge erected by the Royal Engineers。 This was a
  most charming spot for luncheon; and the dense shade of the planes was
  far more agreeable than the shelter of a wooden military hut that stood
  upon the height above and by no means improved the beauty of the view。
  Our dogs seemed to enjoy the change; and raced up and down the river's
  bed; delighted with the cold water from the mountains; fresh from the
  highest springs of Troodos Some cold roast pigeons; young and fat; and
  some hard…boiled eggs; formed our luncheon; together with bread and
  cheese。 These were quickly despatched and the carpets being spread
  beneath the trees; an hour's nap was good for man while the mules rolled
  and then dozed in luxury upon the turf…like surface of the glen。 I was
  awakened by the clatter of horse's hoofs; and Mr。 Allen; the chief
  officer of the police of Limasol; appeared; having most kindly ridden
  after us with the post just arrived from England。 Unfortunately not a
  crumb of luncheon remained; the dogs having swallowed our leavings。 We
  now saddled; and continued the journey upon the firm surface of the new
  road。
  When about fourteen miles from Limasol we entered upon a grand scene;
  which exhibited the commencement of the wine…producing district。 The
  road was scarped from the mountain side several hundred feet above the
  river; which murmured over its rocky bed in the bottom of the gorge。 We
  were skirting a deep valley; and upon either side the mountains rose to
  a height of about 1400 feet; completely covered with vineyards from the
  base to the summit; this long vale or chasm extended to the Troodos
  range; which towered to upwards of 6000 feet; at a distance of about
  fourteen miles immediately in our front。 The vines were all green with
  their early foliage; and the surface of the hill…sides was most
  cheering; contrasting with the yellow plain we had left at Limasol。
  The good road rendered travelling delightful after the stony paths that
  we had traversed for some months in Cyprus; and the time passed so
  rapidly that we could hardly believe the distance marked upon the
  nineteenth milestone; where it was necessary to halt for the arrival of
  our baggage animals。 After waiting till nearly dark we found they had
  quitted the new road and preferred a short cut across country; which had
  led them to the village of Menagria down in the glen nearly a mile below
  us。 We walked down the steep hill and joined the party; pitched the
  tent; and made ready for the night。
  On the following morning; instead of adhering to the new road; we
  descended to the bottom of the gorge and crossed the river near some
  water…mills; as the bridge was not yet completed in the distant angle of
  the glen。 We now ascended an exceedingly steep hill from the river's
  bed; which severely tried our animals; until; after passing a succession
  of cereal crops and vineyards; we arrived at the summit; about 1200 feet
  above the valley。 From this point the view was magnificent。 The
  pine…covered sides of Troodos appeared close before us; and a valley
  stretched away to our right richly clothed with trees below the steep
  vine…covered sides of the surrounding mountains。 Keeping to our left and
  passing through several insignificant villages; we commenced a most
  dangerous descent; with an occasional deep precipice on the right of the
  extremely narrow path; until we reached a contracted but verdant glen。
  This was a remarkable change: we had suddenly entered one of those
  picturesque vales for which Devonshire is famous。 The vegetation had
  changed to that of Europe; as we were now nearly 3000 feet above the
  sea。 Apple and pear trees of large size were present; not in orchards;
  but growing independently as though wild。 Dog…roses of exquisite colour
  were in full bloom; and reminded us of English hedges。 Beautiful
  oak…trees scattered upon the green surface gave a park…like appearance
  to the scene; and numerous streams of clear water rippled though the
  myrtle…covered banks; over the deep brown rocks of the plutonic
  formation; which had now succeeded to the cretaceous limestone。
  It was a curious geological division; limited by the glen: on the left;
  the hills and mountains were the usual white marls and cretaceous
  limestone; while