第 45 节
作者:双曲线      更新:2022-04-14 11:08      字数:9322
  waves。 We ascended the stream for a short distance; until; tempted by
  two or three large plane…trees; we halted for luncheon beneath their
  shade。 The river; which occasionally flooded sufficiently to bring down
  heavy timber when felled among the mountains; flowed through an
  extremely rich but narrow valley; which extended into a glen between
  their precipitous slopes until it became a mere ravine。 The mass of
  mountains in this district; which form a succession of wild and
  impassable steeps; is marked upon Kiepert's map as 〃unexplored。〃 They
  were originally pine…forests; but the destruction of timber has been
  carried to such an excess that comparatively few trees remain。 With my
  glass I could distinguish large trunks that lay rotting upon the ground;
  where they had pitched among the stems; and roots of trees that had been
  already felled; these had been rolled from the steep heights above; but
  having been caught in their descent to the torrent below by the opposing
  stumps; they had been abandoned; and other trees had been felled in
  their stead; where the inclination was more favourable for their
  transport。
  This portion of the coast should be thoroughly explored by practical
  miners; as it is rich in minerals。 I procured some fine specimens of
  pyrites of copper; which the natives mistook for silver; and should a
  mineralogical investigation be made by the authorities; I feel sure that
  the metallic wealth of Cyprus will be discovered between Caravastasi and
  Poli…ton…Krysokhus。
  It was late before our baggage animals appeared; and when they at length
  arrived; Iiani's venerable camel was missing。 It appeared that this
  worn…out old creature had been performing acrobatic feats in tumbling
  throughout the difficult journey; and had rolled; together with its
  load; down several places that had threatened its destruction。 It had
  delayed the march several hours; as it had been many times released from
  difficulties by unloading; reloading; and dividing the heavier portions
  of baggage among the other camels which received a smaller pay。 At
  length; upon arriving upon the deep sand of the beach; about a mile
  distant; it had fallen down; and given up everything except the ghost。
  It was a natural annoyance to the owners of the other camels that Iiani
  should be paid highly for a useless animal; while they had to carry its
  load divided among them assisted by a division of the smaller weights
  among the servants' riding mules。 The evening was passed in grumbling:
  everybody was in a bad humour。 It was declared impossible to pitch the
  tent upon the sandy beach by the pool of fresh water; as there was no
  holding…ground for the tent…pegs。 I quickly instructed them in making
  faggots of tamarisk…boughs which; tied to the ropes and buried in the
  sand; were much more secure than pegs in the hardest soil; and the tent
  was at length arranged。 A small species of curlew tempted its fate by
  visiting the fresh…water margin just before our dinner…hour; I bagged
  it; and as the cook was in a bad humour; I made a fire of driftwood;
  with which the beach was strewed; and when the glowing embers had
  succeeded to the flame and formed a red…hot heap; I cut two forked
  sticks; which; placed on either side upright in the sand; supported my
  bird upon a long skewer of green tamarisk…wood。 A little salt; pepper;
  and a smear of butter occasionally; produced a result that would have
  beaten Christo's best attempts。
  On the following morning we were all once more in good humour; the old
  camel had not died; but had been brought into camp late at night。 It now
  formed the object for everybody's joke; and its owner liani was
  recommended to 〃try and sell it;〃 or 〃to make it a present to a friend;〃
  or 〃to ride it himself;〃 the latter course would have been a deserved
  punishment。 Iiani escaped further remarks by jumping upon his mule and
  riding ahead; and we followed our guide without delay along the deep
  sandy beach。
  We rode for fourteen miles along cliffs bordering the sea; with the deep
  hollows occasioned by the natural drainage causing a continual series of
  ups and downs; which reminded me forcibly of the coast of South Devon
  between Torquay and Dawlish。 The difference lay in the rocks; which were
  all plutonic; and in the scenery upon our left; which was a wild and
  confused mass of mountains; scarred by deep and dark ravines; while the
  more distant summits exhibited the still…existing pine…forests; these
  had disappeared from the slopes which faced the coast; and had afforded
  facilities for exportation。 We halted in a deep glen between exceedingly
  steep hills; through which a torrent…bed had cut its course directly to
  the sea。 In this secluded spot; far from all villages or inhabitants; we
  arranged to encamp upon a flat and inviting plot of turf; which in
  Cyprus is rarely met with。 Some tolerable elms and other trees formed a
  dense shade in a deep and narrow portion of the glen beneath the
  over…hanging cliffs; and a beautiful spring of water issued from the
  rock; received in a stone cistern beneath。 An arch of masonry inclosed
  the spring; which some kind person had thus carefully arranged for the
  public good; this was richly clothed with maiden…hair ferns。 The surplus
  water; after overflowing the stone basin; formed a faint stream; which
  trickled over the rocks between cliffs only a few feet apart; until it
  emerged from this narrow cleft and joined the sea。 I walked down this
  natural alley to the beach and bathed; to the astonishment of my guide
  Iiani and another Cypriote; who rushed to the top of the cliff as though
  they thought I contemplated suicide; these people having a natural
  horror of cold water。 The name of this secluded glen was Symboli。
  On the following morning we started for Polis; fourteen miles by an easy
  route along the coast。 The mountains upon our left were very
  precipitous; and exhibited the same character of complete wilderness
  which had marked them for the last two marches; the only difference
  apparent was an increase in the remaining pines; which fairly clothed
  their summits and ravines。 The sea was perfectly calm; and for the first
  time during our stay in Cyprus we observed many shoals of fish playing
  upon the surface close to the beach。 Two cormorants were in the bay; and
  I made some fortunate shots; killing one with the rifle at upwards of
  200 yards; and disabling the other at about 250。 There appeared to be
  more signs of game in this part of the country; as the cock francolins
  were crowing in many directions throughout our route; until we arrived
  at Polis; or; in full; 〃Poli…ton…Krysokhus。〃
  This place was formerly important as one of the principal mineral
  centres of the island; and the large accumulations of scoriae in several
  mounds near the coast prove that mining operations were conducted upon
  an extensive scale。 A concession had recently been granted to a small
  private company for the working of copper in this neighbourhood; and
  should the existence of metallic wealth be proved there can be no doubt
  that capital will be embarked in mining enterprises; and the locality
  will recover its former importance。 On the other hand; all mining
  adventures should be conducted with the greatest caution。 A common error
  is committed by sanguine speculators in following the footsteps of the
  ancients; upon the supposition that because in former ages a locality
  was productive; it should remain in the same profitable condition。
  Nothing can be more erroneous; it is generally poor gleaning after the
  Phoenicians。 The bronze of those extraordinary miners and metallurgists
  was renowned above all other qualities; they worked the copper…mines of
  Cyprus and the tin…mines of Cornwall; but the expenses of working a mine
  in those days bore no comparison with the outlay of modern times。 Slaves
  were employed as a general rule: forced labour was obtainable; and the
  general conditions of the labour…market were utterly at variance with
  those of the present day。 The ancient miners would seldom have abandoned
  their veins of ore until they were completely exhausted; and the vast
  heaps of scoriae which now mark the sites of their operations may be the
  remains of works that were deserted as worn out and unproductive。 It is
  true that traces of copper are visible in many places throughout the
  metamorphous rocks; and the greenstone from Soli to Poli…ton…Krysokhus;
  but it remains to be proved whether the metal exists in sufficient
  quantities to be profitably worked。 It is generally believed that zinc
  was formerly produced at Soli; where vestiges of ancient mining
  operations are to be seen upon the surface; but for many centuries the
  works have been abandoned。
  A very careful scientific examination of the island has been made by
  various explorersM。 Gaudry; Unger; and Kotschy: their reports are not
  encouraging; but at the same time it must be allowed that they were not
  practical miners。 The work of M。 Gaudry must always be accepted as a
  most valuable authority upon the geology; mineralogy; and general
  agricultural resources of Cyprus; but it will be remarked by all
  practical men that the explorations of the country have been
  superficial; no money has been expended; and is it