第 19 节
作者:双曲线      更新:2022-04-14 11:08      字数:9322
  Africa; which; with three thousand pounds; require ten or twelve oxen。
  The heavier weight in a difficulty of soft ground; or in crossing a
  river; would be serious; but if the vehicles are numerous; and the
  weight distributed accordingly; it stands to sense that an enormous
  advantage is secured by the presence of ten oxen in five light carts;
  all of which can be applied to drag a single cart out of a serious
  dilemma; instead of remaining hopelessly fixed in soft mud; anchored by
  a weight of a ton and a half; as in the case of an African
  baggage…waggon。 High and broad wheels are the first necessity; with a
  compound axle of wood and iron; the unequal elasticity of which relieves
  the shock。
  I invariably found that during the day I hated my van; and in the
  evening I blessed it。 It certainly delayed us on the march; and as we
  rode some miles in advance we noted the obstacles that would cause a
  stoppage; and generally halted to assist when the 〃tortoise〃 should
  arrive。 All this was of course annoying in a country where a horse would
  have cantered cheerily along and have accomplished forty miles a day;
  but; on the other hand; the van was never intended for grande vitesse;
  neither is express travelling the proper method of obtaining an accurate
  knowledge of a new country。 Thus we crawled along; making twelve or
  thirteen miles per diem through a most uninteresting country; the usual
  scene of treeless waste; but dotted over with extensive villages of
  mud…built houses; and the inevitable white arched…roof Greek churches。
  The only incidents that occurred in this land of apathy were occasioned
  by our guide; who generally lost his way; and spent some hours in
  finding the vans at the halting…place in the evening; this was not
  improving to the temper; and of course I laid the blame upon Cyprus
  generally; and abused the island almost to the superlative degree
  adopted by the 〃newspaper correspondents。〃
  The 17th February was a day of considerable bodily exercise; as we
  arrived at a series of watercourses as deep and broad as military
  trenches for sapping up to a fortress。 We had no sooner levelled an
  embankment; and with great difficulty dragged the vans across; than we
  encountered a new and similar obstruction。 At length we arrived within
  half a mile of the large village Arshia; which; being well irrigated;
  opposed a perfect network of barriers in the shape of artificial
  water…channels。 The oxen became disheartened; and the pair which drew
  the blue van driven by our favourite Georgi determined to strike work
  just as he was applying the sharp driving prick to their posteriors in
  ascending a steep bank; through which we had cut a passage from the deep
  water…course beneath。 Instead of keeping a straight course; these
  pig…headed bullocks made a sharp turn to the right up the incline。 Down
  went one upon its knees in rage and despair! while round went the other
  in an opposite direction: crash went the pole in two pieces! and the
  blue van; having vainly endeavoured to right itself like a lady about to
  faint when no one is at hand to save her; tottered for a moment; and
  turned over with a crash that betokened general destruction。 My
  Abyssinian lad; Amarn; was only just in time to escape; as he had been
  endeavouring to support the van on the impending side when it suddenly
  capsised; and he would have been flattened like a black…edged mourning
  envelope had he not actively sprung out of the way。
  All hands set about righting the shipwhich was upon her beam…ends; and
  the wheels uppermost。 The first thing necessary was to discharge cargo;
  this we quickly effected; as there were doors in front and behind; and
  the numerous packages were soon piled upon the wayside。 No sooner was
  the van empty; than my dogs; who had been watching the operation in
  bewilderment; jumped in; and no inducement would persuade them to quit
  the comfortable vehicle; which they supposed had been specially cleared
  for their convenience; the doors were accordingly shut; and they were
  locked up。 We now passed ropes beneath the van; and secured the ends to
  the bottom of the wheels; which rested upon the ground; the other ends
  were thrown over the cap…roof and manned; while the rest of the party
  endeavoured to raise the van bodily。 All working together; we righted it
  immediately; the astonished dogs were liberated; and we soon replaced
  the contents。 I sent a messenger to Arshia to purchase if possible a
  piece of wood sufficiently long to form a pole; and in the meantime I
  employed my tools and myself in splicing the broken pole sufficiently to
  enable us to creep a little nearer to the village; as we were far from
  water。
  It was nearly dark by the time I had completed my work; and the bullocks
  were once more fastened to the van。 In this way we approached within a
  quarter of a mile of the village and halted for the night。 I made a
  capital pole from the stem of a young fir…tree which I procured from the
  natives; and lashed it securely to the rough but strong splinter…bar of
  dwarf…cypress。
  On the following morning at daybreak I made a few alterations in the
  work of the preceding night; and having thoroughly secured the new pole;
  we started for Kuklia; about thirteen miles distant。 After passing a few
  more watercourses; we arrived at the best ground we had seen in Cyprus;
  and the vans travelled with ease at upwards of three miles an hour。
  Throughout this march I observed that the water in the various wells and
  open pits was hardly five feet from the surface; although the country
  was suffering from an absence of rain。 Notwithstanding this natural
  advantage; there were only two farms upon which the cattle…wheels were
  used for purposes of irrigation; which proves the lack of enterprise and
  capital throughout this miserable district。
  There were many important villages upon the higher ground; which
  overlooked the lower plain through which the river Pedias was supposed
  to flow。 These heights were about a hundred and fifty feet above the
  lower level; and continued to increase their elevation for many miles;
  until they formed the horizon on the south…west and west。 The soil was
  extremely fertile; but as usual covered with stones; the debris of
  decayed limestone of the post…tertiary period; such as is found
  throughout the Messaria。 The flat valley below was about thirteen miles
  across due north; and was bounded by the Carpas range; which extended to
  the east beyond telescopic view。 In our front was a cheering scene;
  towards which we hastened with all speed; as sailors rush on deck at the
  first cry of 〃Land ahead!〃 we hurried forward at the unusual sight;
  〃Green trees!〃 Groves of tall cypress; poplars; and other varieties;
  springing from a base of exquisite verdure; formed a rare and
  unmistakable landmark。 This was Kuklia; our halting…place; the property
  of Monsieur Richard Mattei。
  Upon arrival at the village we selected a pretty spot upon elevated
  ground which overlooked the entire country; and from which we could
  faintly distinguish Famagousta; twelve miles distant。 Upon our right;
  within a hundred and twenty yards; was an aqueduct of masonry supported
  upon arches; which conveyed a powerful stream to turn a large overshot
  water…wheel in the valley immediately below。 The surplus water; after
  having worked the mill; was used for the irrigation of extensive
  cotton…grounds; beyond which it flowed into the marshes and formed a
  swamp。 On the opposite side of this narrow valley were heights and
  undulating ground; corresponding to those upon which we stoodall
  treeless and cold; while upon our right; close to the aqueduct; was the
  bright green of high cultivation; and groves of tall trees which towered
  above gardens of oranges and lemons now bending beneath the burden of
  yellow fruit。 The village was disappointing; as the houses were of a low
  order and much neglected; the lanes were occupied by the usual filth and
  noisy dogs; but the agreeable view of bright green fields and real
  thriving trees was a delightful change; and exhibited a picture of what
  Cyprus might become when developed by capital and enterprise。 While the
  camp was being arranged I took my gun and strolled with the dogs into
  the narrow valley below the mill。 The waterwheel was at work; and the
  people were engaged in cleaning cotton; as the machinery was adapted for
  both purposes of grinding corn or of ginning cotton when required。 There
  were plenty of snipe in the marshes below the cotton…fields; for which
  rushes; low bushes of tamarisk and other shrubs; afforded excellent
  cover。 I quickly bagged two couple and my first Francolin partridge; and
  was just in time; before dark; to assist the dinner。
  At sunrise on the following morning the view was interesting; as the sea
  glittered brightly to the south; while the bold rocks and wall…like
  sides of the Carpas mountains stood out in sharply…defined edges and
  varying colours on the north。 To the east we looked over the broadest
  portion of a dead flat created by the deposit from inundations of the
  eccentric river Pedias; which; although dry at the present time;
  periodically floods the country and converts the valley into an
  extensive lake。 It was about twenty miles acros