第 14 节
作者:双曲线      更新:2022-04-14 11:08      字数:9322
  Troodos; 6590 feet; Adelphe; 5380 feet; Makhera; 4730 feet。 These are
  the measurements as they appear upon the maps; but the recent survey by
  the Royal Engineers has reduced the height of Troodos by 250 feet。 A
  green patch at the foot of the Carpas range denoted the position of
  Kythrea; about twelve miles distant east; watered by the extraordinary
  spring which has rendered it famous both in ancient and modern times;
  and almost at our feet; or a mile in a direct line; the fortified
  capital; Lefkosia; presented the usual picturesque appearance of a
  Turkish town。 A combination of date…palms; green orange…gardens;
  minarets; mosques; houses quaint in their irregularity and colouring;
  and the grand old Venetian Cathedral; St。 Sophia; towering above all
  other buildings; were enclosed within the high masonry walls and
  bastions; comprising a circuit of three statute miles。
  The position of Lefkosia has been badly chosen; as it lies in the flat;
  and must always have been exposed to a plunging fire from an enemy
  posted upon the heights。 It was fortified in the time of Constantine the
  Great; but in 1570 the Venetians demolished the old works and
  constructed the present elaborate fortifications。 Although the walls are
  in several places crumbling into ruins; they are still imposing in
  appearance; and present a clean front of masonry flanked by eleven
  bastions; and entered by three gates; those of Baffo; Famagousta; and
  Kyrenia。 The original ditch can be traced in various places; but the
  counterscarp and glacis have been destroyed; therefore the soil has
  washed in during the rainy seasons; and to an unpractised eye has
  obliterated all traces of the former important work。 On the other hand;
  the disappearance of the glacis renders the height of the walls still
  more imposing; as they rise for thirty or forty feet abruptly from the
  level base; and at a distance maintain the appearance of good condition。
  It is difficult to imagine the reason which induced the Venetians to
  reproduce Lefkosia after they had demolished the original
  fortifications; but it is probable that they had already erected the
  cathedral before the expected Turkish invasion rendered the improved
  defences necessary。 Although in the early days of artillery shell…fire
  was unknown; both the Turks and Venetians possessed guns of heavy
  calibre far exceeding any that were used in Great Britain until recent
  years。 The marble shot which are still to be seen in Famagousta are the
  same which served in the defence of that fortress in 1571。 These are
  nearly eleven inches in diameter; while in the fort of Kyrenia the stone
  shot are still existing; nineteen inches in diameter; composed of an
  exceedingly hard and heavy metamorphic rock。 The long bronze guns which
  threw the smaller stone shot of from six to eleven inches; would command
  a far more extensive range than the interval of the heights which
  dominate Lefkosia; and even should battering have been ineffective at
  that distance against walls of masonry; the plunging fire would have
  destroyed the town and rendered it untenable。
  Traces are still visible of the Turkish approaches when the town was
  successfully carried by storm on the 9th of September; 1570; after a
  siege of only forty…five days。 The short duration of the attack compared
  to the length of time required in the siege of Famagousta; which at
  length succumbed to famine; and not to direct assaults; is a proof of
  the faulty strategical position of the fortress of Lefkosia。
  Most Turkish towns are supplied with water by aqueducts from a
  considerable distance; which would naturally be cut by an enemy as the
  first operation。 The water is brought to Lefkosia from the hills at some
  miles' distance; and is of excellent quality; but the wells of the town
  must be contaminated by sewage; as there is no means of effective
  drainage upon the dead level of the town; unless the original ditch is
  turned into a pestilential cesspool。 The filth of centuries must have
  been imbibed by the soil; and during the process of infiltration must in
  successive rainy seasons have found its way to the wells。 In case of
  invasion; Lefkosia could never have resisted a prolonged siege; as in
  the absence of the aqueduct a garrison would quickly have succumbed to
  disease when dependent for a water…supply upon the wells alone。 When the
  Turks captured the city by assault; the population far exceeded that of
  the present time (16;000); and the greater portion were massacred during
  several days of sack and pillage。 Some thousands of girls and boys were
  transported to Constantinople。 Richard I。 of England occupied Lefkosia
  without resistance; after his victory over Isaac Comnenus。
  Although experienced in the illusion of Turkish towns; I was more than
  disappointed when I visited the interior of Lefkosia。 The new Chief
  Commissioner; Colonel Biddulph; R。A。; C。B。; had already improved certain
  streets; and the eye was immediately attracted to points which bore the
  unmistakable stamp of a British occupation; but nothing can be effected
  in the arrangement of such a town without an unlimited purse and a
  despotic power。 It is almost as hopeless as London in the incongruity of
  architecture; and the individual indulgence of independent taste; which
  absolutely dismays a stranger。 The beautiful Gothic cathedral of the
  Venetians has been converted into a mosque by the conquerors; and two
  exceedingly lofty and thin minarets have added an absurd embellishment;
  resembling two gigantic candles capped by extinguishers; as though the
  altar…tapers had been taken for the models。 The neighbouring church of
  St。 Nicholas has been converted into a granary。 In all Turkish towns the
  bazaars are the most interesting portion; as they illustrate the
  commercial and agricultural industries of the country。 Those of Lefkosia
  formed a labyrinth of the usual narrow streets; and resembled each other
  so closely that it was difficult to find the way。 The preparation of
  leather from the first process of tanning is exhibited on an extensive
  scale; which does not add to the natural sweetness of the air。 Native
  manufactures for which the town is celebrated; that are more agreeable;
  may be purchased at a moderate price in the shape of silk stuffs; and a
  variety of mule…harness; pack…saddles; and the capacious double bags of
  hair and wool that; slung across the animal; are almost indispensable to
  the traveller。 There were a few shops devoted to European articles which
  were hardly adapted to the country; and were expensive in a ridiculous
  degree。 The narrow streets were muddy from the recent rain; and the
  temperature was at 55 degrees; but the inhabitants were sitting at the
  various cafes in the open air smoking and drinking their steaming coffee
  as though in summer。 From natural politeness they invariably rose as we
  passed by; and at one place I was immediately furnished with a string
  that I might measure a large vine…stem which during summer must afford a
  dense shade。 I found the main stem of this unusual specimen was
  twenty…two inches in circumference。
  The only agreeable walk in Lefkosia is the circuit of the ramparts; as
  the high elevation admits of fresh air and an extensive view。 From this
  we looked down upon numerous gardens well irrigated by the surplus water
  of the aqueduct; and the remarkably healthy orange and lemon trees were
  crowded with their loads of ripe fruit。 There are many good and roomy
  houses in the town; each furnished with a considerable garden; but as
  they are surrounded with high walls; it is difficult to form an opinion
  of their actual dimensions。 The house occupied by the Chief Commissioner
  is large and well constructed; the staircase and landing airy and
  capacious; with an entrance…hall open at the extreme end and well
  arranged for the burning climate during summer。 All houses are paved
  with slabs of gypsum; which abound in many parts of the island; and are
  sold at a remarkably low price; as the blocks laminate; and are divided
  into sheets of the required thickness with a minimum of labour。
  The Turkish Pacha (Rifat) still remained at Lefkosia; as he was
  responsible for the transfer of various movable property to
  Constantinople。 The interesting Venetian cannon of bronze that were
  utterly valueless as modern weapons had been conveyed away both from
  Lefkosia and Famagousta。 One of these was a double octagon; or
  sixteen…sided; and would have been a valuable specimen in the collection
  at the Tower of London。 Many of the curious old Venetian cannon had
  recently been burst into fragments with dynamite; to save the trouble of
  moving the heavy guns entire。
  There can be little doubt that the prime object in selecting a central
  position for the capital of Cyprus was a regard for safety from any
  sudden attack; but upon any other grounds I cannot conceive a greater
  absurdity。 The capital should be Limasol; which will become the
  Liverpool of Cyprus。 Lefkosia is completely out of the commercial route;
  it is valueless as a military position; and it offers no climatic
  advantage; but; on the contrary; it is frightfully hot in the summer
  months; and is secluded from the more active portions of the island。 It
  IS; simply because it