第 4 节
作者:双曲线      更新:2022-04-14 11:08      字数:9322
  the rain has percolated through the ground; it has become so thoroughly
  impregnated with sulphate of lime that it has deposited a series of
  strata some six or seven feet below the surface; which form a flaky
  subterranean pavement。 The ancients selected this shallow soil of a
  higher level for a burial…ground; and they burrowed beneath the stratum
  of stony deposit to form their tombs。 One of the chief occupations of
  modern Cypriotes appears to be the despoiling of the dead; thus the
  entire sides of the plateau…face for a distance of about two miles are
  burrowed into thousands of holes to a depth of ten and twelve feet in
  search of hidden treasures。 If the same amount of labour had been
  expended in the tillage of the surface; the result would have been far
  more profitable。 A small proportion of the land upon the outskirts of
  the town was cultivated; some had been recently ploughed; while in other
  plots the wheat had appeared above the surface。 Water is generally found
  at eight or nine feet below the level; but this is of an inferior
  description; and the town and environs are well supplied by an aqueduct
  which conveys the water from powerful springs about seven miles to the
  west of Larnaca; near Arpera。 This useful work was constructed according
  to the will of a former pacha; who bequeathed the sum required; for a
  public benefit。
  Large flocks of sheep were grazing in various portions of the
  uncultivated plain。 At first sight they appeared to be only searching
  for food among the stones and dust; but upon close examination I found a
  peculiar fleshy herb something like the stone…crop which grows upon the
  old walls and rocks of England。 This plant was exceedingly salt; and the
  sheep devoured it with avidity; and were in fair condition。 The wool was
  long; but of a coarse wiry texture; and much impaired by the adherence
  of thistles and other prickly plants。 The musical sound of distant bells
  denoted the arrival of a long string of camels; laden with immense bales
  of unpressed cotton on their way to the port of Larnaca。 Each animal
  carried two bales; and I observed that the saddles and pads were in
  excellent order; the camels well fed; and strongly contrasting with the
  cruel carelessness of the camel owners of Egypt; whose beasts are galled
  into terrible sores from the want of padding in their packs。 The cotton
  had been cleaned upon the plantation; but it would be subjected to
  hydraulic pressure and packed in the usual iron…bound bales for
  shipment; upon arrival in the stores of Larnaca。
  It was impossible to resist a feeling of depression upon strolling
  around the environs of the town and regarding the barren aspect of the
  distant country。 Every inch of this fertile plain should be cultivated;
  and numerous villages should be dotted upon the extensive surface。
  〃Thorns also and thistles shall it bring forth〃 was a curse that
  appeared to have adhered to Cyprus。
  It was unnecessary to seek for the chief cause of unhealthiness; this
  was at once apparent in the low swamps on the immediate outskirts of the
  town。 In ancient days the shallow harbour of Cittium existed on the east
  side of modern Larnaca; whether from a silting of the port; or from the
  gradual alteration in the level of the Mediterranean; the old harbour no
  longer exists; but is converted into a miserable swamp; bordered by a
  raised beach of shingles upon the seaboard。 The earth has been swept
  down by the rains; and the sand driven in by the sea; while man stood
  idly by; allowing Nature to destroy a former industry。 All the original
  harbours of the country have suffered from the same neglect。
  There was little to be seen in the neighbourhood。 The site was pointed
  out where the troops were encamped in the tremendous heat of July in the
  close vicinity of the swampy ground; upon pestiferous soil; and the
  usual tales of commissariat blunders were recounted。 Close to the
  borders of this unhealthy spot; but about twenty feet above the level of
  the lowest morass; stands the convent belonging to the Sisters of
  Charity; which includes a school; in addition to a hospital。 Great
  kindness was shown by these excellent ladies to many English sufferers;
  and their establishment deserves a liberal support from public
  contributions。
  I walked through the bazaar of Larnaca; this is situated at the west end
  of the town near the fort; close to which there is a public fountain
  supplied by the aqueduct to which I have already alluded。 Brass taps
  were arranged around the covered stone reservoir; but I remarked a
  distressing waste of water; as a continual flow escaped from an
  uncontrolled shoot which poured in a large volume uselessly into the
  street。 Within a few yards of the reservoir was a solitary old banian
  tree (ficus religiosa); around which a crowd of donkeys waited; laden
  with panniers containing large earthen jars; which in their turn were to
  be filled with the pure water of the Arpera springs。
  Although the crowd was large; and all were busied in filling their jars
  and loading their respective animals; there was no jostling or
  quarrelling for precedence; but every individual was a pattern of
  patience and good humour。 Mohammedans and Cypriotes thronged together in
  the same employment; and the orderly behaviour in the absence of police
  supervision formed a strong contrast to the crowds in England。
  The Mosque being within a few feet of them; the Mussulmans could perform
  their ablutions at the threshold。 Around the font; women were
  intermingled with a crowd of men and boys。 The girls and lads were
  regular in features and good…looking; though dirt and torn clothing of
  various gaudy colours gave a picturesque; but hardly an attractive;
  appearance to the group。 The bazaar was entered at right angles with the
  quay; the streets were paved with stones of irregular size; sloping from
  both sides towards the centre; which formed the gutter。 Camels; mules;
  bullock…carts; and the omnipresent donkeys thronged the narrow streets;
  either laden with produce for the quay; or returning after having
  delivered their heavy loads。 The donkeys were very large and were mostly
  dark brown; with considerable length of hair。 In like manner with the
  camels; they were carefully protected by thick and well stuffed packs;
  or saddles; and were accordingly free from sores。 They appeared to be
  exceedingly docile and intelligent; and did not require the incessant
  belabouring to which the ass of other countries is the victim。 Large
  droves of these animals; each laden with three heavy squared stones for
  building; picked their way through the narrow streets; and seemed to
  know exactly the space required for their panniers; as they never
  collided with either carts or passengers。
  The shops of the bazaar were all open; and contained the supplies
  usually seen in Turkish marketsvegetables; meat; and a predominance of
  native sweets and confectionery; in addition to stores of groceries; and
  of copper and brass utensils。 An absence of fish proved the general
  indolence of the people; there is abundance in the sea; but there are
  few fishermen。
  An hour's stroll was quite sufficient for one to form an opinion of
  Larnaca。 A good roadstead and safe anchorage offer great advantages; but
  until some protection shall be afforded that will enable boats to land
  in all weathers Larnaca can never be accepted as a port。 There is shoal
  water for a distance of about two hundred yards from the shore; which
  causes a violent surf even in a moderate breeze; and frequently prevents
  all communication with the shipping。 The quay was in many places
  undermined by the action of the waves; and it would be necessary to
  create an entirely new front by sinking a foundation for a sea…wall some
  yards in advance of the present face。 There would be no engineering
  difficulty in the formation of a boat…harbour; to combine by extensive
  pile…jetties the facility of landing in all weathers。 A very cursory
  view of Larnaca exhibited a true picture of its miserable financial
  position。 The numerous stores kept by Europeans were the result of a
  spasmodic impulse。 There was no wholesome trade; those who represented
  the commercial element were for the most part unfortunates who had
  rushed to Cyprus at the first intelligence of the British occupation;
  strong in expectations of a golden harvest。 The sudden withdrawal of the
  large military force left Larnaca in the condition of streets full of
  sellers; but denuded of buyers。 The stores were supplied with the usual
  amount of liquors; and tins of preserved provisions; none of the
  imported articles were adapted for native requirements; an utter
  stagnation of trade was the consequence; and prices fell below the cost
  of home production。 The preceding year had been exceptionally sickly;
  many of the storekeepers were suffering from the effects of fever;
  which; combined with the depression of spirits caused by ruined
  prospects; produced a condition of total collapse; from which there was
  only one reliefthat of writing to the newspapers and abusing the
  Government and the island generally。
  There must always be martyrssomebody must be sacrificedwhether burnt
  at the stake for religious principles; or put in a bell…tent