第 16 节
作者:阎王      更新:2022-03-20 20:46      字数:9322
  for the robbers durst not wait till the injured clan should find
  them in the morning。
  The interior inclosures; if the whole building were once a house;
  were the chambers of the chief inhabitants。  If it was a place of
  security for cattle; they were probably the shelters of the
  keepers。
  From the Dun we were conducted to another place of security; a cave
  carried a great way under ground; which had been discovered by
  digging after a fox。  These caves; of which many have been found;
  and many probably remain concealed; are formed; I believe; commonly
  by taking advantage of a hollow; where banks or rocks rise on
  either side。  If no such place can be found; the ground must be cut
  away。  The walls are made by piling stones against the earth; on
  either side。  It is then roofed by larger stones laid across the
  cavern; which therefore cannot be wide。  Over the roof; turfs were
  placed; and grass was suffered to grow; and the mouth was concealed
  by bushes; or some other cover。
  These caves were represented to us as the cabins of the first rude
  inhabitants; of which; however; I am by no means persuaded。  This
  was so low; that no man could stand upright in it。  By their
  construction they are all so narrow; that two can never pass along
  them together; and being subterraneous; they must be always damp。
  They are not the work of an age much ruder than the present; for
  they are formed with as much art as the construction of a common
  hut requires。  I imagine them to have been places only of
  occasional use; in which the Islander; upon a sudden alarm; hid his
  utensils; or his cloaths; and perhaps sometimes his wife and
  children。
  This cave we entered; but could not proceed the whole length; and
  went away without knowing how far it was carried。  For this
  omission we shall be blamed; as we perhaps have blamed other
  travellers; but the day was rainy; and the ground was damp。  We had
  with us neither spades nor pickaxes; and if love of ease surmounted
  our desire of knowledge; the offence has not the invidiousness of
  singularity。
  Edifices; either standing or ruined; are the chief records of an
  illiterate nation。  In some part of this journey; at no great
  distance from our way; stood a shattered fortress; of which the
  learned minister; to whose communication we are much indebted; gave
  us an account。
  Those; said he; are the walls of a place of refuge; built in the
  time of James the Sixth; by Hugh Macdonald; who was next heir to
  the dignity and fortune of his chief。  Hugh; being so near his
  wish; was impatient of delay; and had art and influence sufficient
  to engage several gentlemen in a plot against the Laird's life。
  Something must be stipulated on both sides; for they would not dip
  their hands in blood merely for Hugh's advancement。  The compact
  was formerly written; signed by the conspirators; and placed in the
  hands of one Macleod。
  It happened that Macleod had sold some cattle to a drover; who; not
  having ready money; gave him a bond for payment。  The debt was
  discharged; and the bond re…demanded; which Macleod; who could not
  read; intending to put into his hands; gave him the conspiracy。
  The drover; when he had read the paper; delivered it privately to
  Macdonald; who; being thus informed of his danger; called his
  friends together; and provided for his safety。  He made a public
  feast; and inviting Hugh Macdonald and his confederates; placed
  each of them at the table between two men of known fidelity。  The
  compact of conspiracy was then shewn; and every man confronted with
  his own name。  Macdonald acted with great moderation。  He upbraided
  Hugh; both with disloyalty and ingratitude; but told the rest; that
  he considered them as men deluded and misinformed。  Hugh was sworn
  to fidelity; and dismissed with his companions; but he was not
  generous enough to be reclaimed by lenity; and finding no longer
  any countenance among the gentlemen; endeavoured to execute the
  same design by meaner hands。  In this practice he was detected;
  taken to Macdonald's castle; and imprisoned in the dungeon。  When
  he was hungry; they let down a plentiful meal of salted meat; and
  when; after his repast; he called for drink; conveyed to him a
  covered cup; which; when he lifted the lid; he found empty。  From
  that time they visited him no more; but left him to perish in
  solitude and darkness。
  We were then told of a cavern by the sea…side; remarkable for the
  powerful reverberation of sounds。  After dinner we took a boat; to
  explore this curious cavity。  The boatmen; who seemed to be of a
  rank above that of common drudges; inquired who the strangers were;
  and being told we came one from Scotland; and the other from
  England; asked if the Englishman could recount a long genealogy。
  What answer was given them; the conversation being in Erse; I was
  not much inclined to examine。
  They expected no good event of the voyage; for one of them declared
  that he heard the cry of an English ghost。  This omen I was not
  told till after our return; and therefore cannot claim the dignity
  of despising it。
  The sea was smooth。  We never left the shore; and came without any
  disaster to the cavern; which we found rugged and misshapen; about
  one hundred and eighty feet long; thirty wide in the broadest part;
  and in the loftiest; as we guessed; about thirty high。  It was now
  dry; but at high water the sea rises in it near six feet。  Here I
  saw what I had never seen before; limpets and mussels in their
  natural state。  But; as a new testimony to the veracity of common
  fame; here was no echo to be heard。
  We then walked through a natural arch in the rock; which might have
  pleased us by its novelty; had the stones; which incumbered our
  feet; given us leisure to consider it。  We were shown the gummy
  seed of the kelp; that fastens itself to a stone; from which it
  grows into a strong stalk。
  In our return; we found a little boy upon the point of rock;
  catching with his angle; a supper for the family。  We rowed up to
  him; and borrowed his rod; with which Mr。 Boswell caught a cuddy。
  The cuddy is a fish of which I know not the philosophical name。  It
  is not much bigger than a gudgeon; but is of great use in these
  Islands; as it affords the lower people both food; and oil for
  their lamps。  Cuddies are so abundant; at sometimes of the year;
  that they are caught like whitebait in the Thames; only by dipping
  a basket and drawing it back。
  If it were always practicable to fish; these Islands could never be
  in much danger from famine; but unhappily in the winter; when other
  provision fails; the seas are commonly too rough for nets; or
  boats。
  TALISKER IN SKY
  From Ulinish; our next stage was to Talisker; the house of colonel
  Macleod; an officer in the Dutch service; who; in this time of
  universal peace; has for several years been permitted to be absent
  from his regiment。  Having been bred to physick; he is consequently
  a scholar; and his lady; by accompanying him in his different
  places of residence; is become skilful in several languages。
  Talisker is the place beyond all that I have seen; from which the
  gay and the jovial seem utterly excluded; and where the hermit
  might expect to grow old in meditation; without possibility of
  disturbance or interruption。  It is situated very near the sea; but
  upon a coast where no vessel lands but when it is driven by a
  tempest on the rocks。  Towards the land are lofty hills streaming
  with water…falls。  The garden is sheltered by firs or pines; which
  grow there so prosperously; that some; which the present inhabitant
  planted; are very high and thick。
  At this place we very happily met Mr。 Donald Maclean; a young
  gentleman; the eldest son of the Laird of Col; heir to a very great
  extent of land; and so desirous of improving his inheritance; that
  he spent a considerable time among the farmers of Hertfordshire;
  and Hampshire; to learn their practice。  He worked with his own
  hands at the principal operations of agriculture; that he might not
  deceive himself by a false opinion of skill; which; if he should
  find it deficient at home; he had no means of completing。  If the
  world has agreed to praise the travels and manual labours of the
  Czar of Muscovy; let Col have his share of the like applause; in
  the proportion of his dominions to the empire of Russia。
  This young gentleman was sporting in the mountains of Sky; and when
  he was weary with following his game; repaired for lodging to
  Talisker。  At night he missed one of his dogs; and when he went to
  seek him in the morning; found two eagles feeding on his carcass。
  Col; for he must be named by his possessions; hearing that our
  intention was to visit Jona; offered to conduct us to his chief;
  Sir Allan Maclean; who lived in the isle of Inch Kenneth; and would
  readily find us a convenient passage。  From this time was formed an
  acquaintance; which being begun by kindness; was accidentally
  continued by constraint; we derived much pleasure from it; and I
  hope have given him no reason to repent it。
  The weather was now almost one continued storm; and we were to
  snatch some happy intermission to be conveyed to Mull; the third
  Island of the Hebrides; lying about a degree south of Sky; w