by　travel　or　instruction；　by　philosophy　or　vanity；　nor　is　public
  happiness　to　be　estimated　by　the　assemblies　of　the　gay；　or　the
  banquets　of　the　rich。　　The　great　mass　of　nations　is　neither　rich
  nor　gay：　　they　whose　aggregate　constitutes　the　people；　are　found　in
  the　streets；　and　the　villages；　in　the　shops　and　farms；　and　from
  them　collectively　considered；　must　the　measure　of　general
  prosperity　be　taken。　　As　they　approach　to　delicacy　a　nation　is
  refined；　as　their　conveniences　are　multiplied；　a　nation；　at　least　a
  commercial　nation；　must　be　denominated　wealthy。
  ELGIN
  Finding　nothing　to　detain　us　at　Bamff；　we　set　out　in　the　morning；
  and　having　breakfasted　at　Cullen；　about　noon　came　to　Elgin；　where
  in　the　inn；　that　we　supposed　the　best；　a　dinner　was　set　before　us；
  which　we　could　not　eat。　　This　was　the　first　time；　and　except　one；
  the　last；　that　I　found　any　reason　to　complain　of　a　Scotish　table；
  and　such　disappointments；　I　suppose；　must　be　expected　in　every
  country；　where　there　is　no　great　frequency　of　travellers。
  The　ruins　of　the　cathedral　of　Elgin　afforded　us　another　proof　of
  the　waste　of　reformation。　　There　is　enough　yet　remaining　to　shew；
  that　it　was　once　magnificent。　　Its　whole　plot　is　easily　traced。　　On
  the　north　side　of　the　choir；　the　chapter…house；　which　is　roofed
  with　an　arch　of　stone；　remains　entire；　and　on　the　south　side；
  another　mass　of　building；　which　we　could　not　enter；　is　preserved　by
  the　care　of　the　family　of　Gordon；　but　the　body　of　the　church　is　a
  mass　of　fragments。
  A　paper　was　here　put　into　our　hands；　which　deduced　from　sufficient
  authorities　the　history　of　this　venerable　ruin。　　The　church　of
  Elgin　had；　in　the　intestine　tumults　of　the　barbarous　ages；　been
  laid　waste　by　the　irruption　of　a　highland　chief；　whom　the　bishop
  had　offended；　but　it　was　gradually　restored　to　the　state；　of　which
  the　traces　may　be　now　discerned；　and　was　at　last　not　destroyed　by
  the　tumultuous　violence　of　Knox；　but　more　shamefully　suffered　to
  dilapidate　by　deliberate　robbery　and　frigid　indifference。　　There　is
  still　extant；　in　the　books　of　the　council；　an　order；　of　which　I
  cannot　remember　the　date；　but　which　was　doubtless　issued　after　the
  Reformation；　directing　that　the　lead；　which　covers　the　two
  cathedrals　of　Elgin　and　Aberdeen；　shall　be　taken　away；　and
  converted　into　money　for　the　support　of　the　army。　　A　Scotch　army
  was　in　those　times　very　cheaply　kept；　yet　the　lead　of　two　churches
  must　have　born　so　small　a　proportion　to　any　military　expence；　that
  it　is　hard　not　to　believe　the　reason　alleged　to　be　merely　popular；
  and　the　money　intended　for　some　private　purse。　　The　order　however
  was　obeyed；　the　two　churches　were　stripped；　and　the　lead　was
  shipped　to　be　sold　in　Holland。　　I　hope　every　reader　will　rejoice
  that　this　cargo　of　sacrilege　was　lost　at　sea。
  Let　us　not　however　make　too　much　haste　to　despise　our　neighbours。
  Our　own　cathedrals　are　mouldering　by　unregarded　dilapidation。　　It
  seems　to　be　part　of　the　despicable　philosophy　of　the　time　to
  despise　monuments　of　sacred　magnificence；　and　we　are　in　danger　of
  doing　that　deliberately；　which　the　Scots　did　not　do　but　in　the
  unsettled　state　of　an　imperfect　constitution。
  Those　who　had　once　uncovered　the　cathedrals　never　wished　to　cover
  them　again；　and　being　thus　made　useless；　they　were；　first
  neglected；　and　perhaps；　as　the　stone　was　wanted；　afterwards
  demolished。
  Elgin　seems　a　place　of　little　trade；　and　thinly　inhabited。　　The
  episcopal　cities　of　Scotland；　I　believe；　generally　fell　with　their
  churches；　though　some　of　them　have　since　recovered　by　a　situation
  convenient　for　commerce。　　Thus　Glasgow；　though　it　has　no　longer　an
  archbishop；　has　risen　beyond　its　original　state　by　the　opulence　of
  its　traders；　and　Aberdeen；　though　its　ancient　stock　had　decayed；
  flourishes　by　a　new　shoot　in　another　place。
  In　the　chief　street　of　Elgin；　the　houses　jut　over　the　lowest　story；
  like　the　old　buildings　of　timber　in　London；　but　with　greater
  prominence；　so　that　there　is　sometimes　a　walk　for　a　considerable
  length　under　a　cloister；　or　portico；　which　is　now　indeed　frequently
  broken；　because　the　new　houses　have　another　form；　but　seems　to　have
  been　uniformly　continued　in　the　old　city。
  FORES。　　CALDER。　　FORT　GEORGE
  We　went　forwards　the　same　day　to　Fores；　the　town　to　which　Macbeth
  was　travelling；　when　he　met　the　weird　sisters　in　his　way。　　This　to
  an　Englishman　is　classic　ground。　　Our　imaginations　were　heated；　and
  our　thoughts　recalled　to　their　old　amusements。
  We　had　now　a　prelude　to　the　Highlands。　　We　began　to　leave　fertility
  and　culture　behind　us；　and　saw　for　a　great　length　of　road　nothing
  but　heath；　yet　at　Fochabars；　a　seat　belonging　to　the　duke　of
  Gordon；　there　is　an　orchard；　which　in　Scotland　I　had　never　seen
  before；　with　some　timber　trees；　and　a　plantation　of　oaks。
  At　Fores　we　found　good　accommodation；　but　nothing　worthy　of
  particular　remark；　and　next　morning　entered　upon　the　road；　on　which
  Macbeth　heard　the　fatal　prediction；　but　we　travelled　on　not
  interrupted　by　promises　of　kingdoms；　and　came　to　Nairn；　a　royal
  burgh；　which；　if　once　it　flourished；　is　now　in　a　state　of　miserable
  decay；　but　I　know　not　whether　its　chief　annual　magistrate　has　not
  still　the　title　of　Lord　Provost。
  At　Nairn　we　may　fix　the　verge　of　the　Highlands；　for　here　I　first
  saw　peat　fires；　and　first　heard　the　Erse　language。　　We　had　no
  motive　to　stay　longer　than　to　breakfast；　and　went　forward　to　the
  house　of　Mr。　Macaulay；　the　minister　who　published　an　account　of　St。
  Kilda；　and　by　his　direction　visited　Calder　Castle；　from　which
  Macbeth　drew　his　second　title。　　It　has　been　formerly　a　place　of
  strength。　　The　draw…bridge　is　still　to　be　seen；　but　the　moat　is　now
  dry。　　The　tower　is　very　ancient：　　Its　walls　are　of　great　thickness；
  arched　on　the　top　with　stone；　and　surrounded　with　battlements。　　The
  rest　of　the　house　is　later；　though　far　from　modern。
  We　were　favoured　by　a　gentleman；　who　lives　in　the　castle；　with　a
  letter　to　one　of　the　officers　at　Fort　George；　which　being　the　most
  regular　fortification　in　the　island；　well　deserves　the　notice　of　a
  traveller；　who　has　never　travelled　before。　　We　went　thither　next
  day；　found　a　very　kind　reception；　were　led　round　the　works　by　a
  gentleman；　who　explained　the　use　of　every　part；　and　entertained　by
  Sir　Eyre　Coote；　the　governour；　with　such　elegance　of　conversation
  as　left　us　no　attention　to　the　delicacies　of　his　table。
  Of　Fort　George　I　shall　not　attempt　to　give　any　account。　　I　cannot
  delineate　it　scientifically；　and　a　loose　and　popular　description　is
  of　use　only　when　the　imagination　is　to　be　amused。　　There　was　every
  where　an　appearance　of　the　utmost　neatness　and　regularity。　　But　my
  suffrage　is　of　little　value；　because　this　and　Fort　Augustus　are　the
  only　garrisons　that　I　ever　saw。
  We　did　not　regret　the　time　spent　at　the　fort；　though　in　consequence
  of　our　delay　we　came　somewhat　late　to　Inverness；　the　town　which　may
  properly　be　called　the　capital　of　the　Highlands。　　Hither　the
  inhabitants　of　the　inland　parts　come　to　be　supplied　with　what　they
  cannot　make　for　themselves：　　Hither　the　young　nymphs　of　the
  mountains　and　valleys　are　sent　for　education；　and　as　far　as　my
  observation　has　reached；　are　not　sent　in　vain。
  INVERNESS
  Inverness　was　the　last　place　which　had　a　regular　communication　by
  high　roads　with　the　southern　counties。　　All　the　ways　beyond　it
  have；　I　believe；　been　made　by　the　soldiers　in　this　century。　　At
  Inverness　therefore　Cromwell；　when　he　subdued　Scotland；　stationed　a
  garrison；　as　at　the　boundary　of　the　Highlands。　　The　soldiers　seem
  to　have　incorporated　afterwards　with　the　inhabitants；　and　to　have
  peopled　the　place　with　an　English　race；　for　the　language　of　this
  town　has　been　long　considered　as　peculiarly　elegant。
  Here　is　a　castle；　called　the　castle　of　Macbeth；　the　walls　of　which
  are　yet　standing。　　It　was　no　very　capacious　edifice；　but　stands
  upon　a　rock　so　high　and　steep；　that　I　think　it　was　once　not
  accessible；　but　by　the　help　of　ladders；　or　a　bridge。　　Over　against
  it；　on　another　hill；　was　a　fort　built　by　Cromwell；　now　totally
  demolished；　for　no　faction　of　Scotland　loved　the　name　of　Cromwell；
  or　had　any　desire　to　continue　his　memory。
  Yet　what　the　Romans　did　to　other　nations；　was　in　a　great　degree
  done　by　Cromwell　to　the　Scots；　he　civilized　them　by　conquest；　and
  introduced　by　useful　violence　the　arts　of　peace。　　I　was　told　at
  Aberdeen　that　the　people　learned　from　Cromwell's　soldiers　to　make
  shoes　and　to　plant　kail。
  How　they　lived　without　kail；　it　is　not　easy　to　guess：　　They
  cultivate　hardly　any　other　plant　for　common　tables；　and　when　they
  had　not　kail　they　probably　had　nothing。　　The　numbers　that　go
  barefoot　are　still　sufficient　to　shew　that　shoes　may　be　spared：
  They　are　not　yet　considered　as　necessaries　of　life；　for　tall　boys；
  not　otherwise　meanly　dressed；　run　without　them　in　the　streets；　and
  in　the　islands　the　sons　of　gentlemen　pass　several　of　their　first
  years　with　naked　feet。
  I　know　not　whether　it　be　not　peculiar　to　the　Scots　to　have　attained
  the　liberal；　without　the　manual　arts；　to　have　excelled　in
  ornamental　knowledge；　and　to　have　wanted　not　only　the　elegancies；
  but　the　conveniences　of　common　life。　　Literature　soon　after　its
  revival