第 45 节
作者:青词      更新:2021-08-14 15:19      字数:9321
  speculation that turned all Rome upside down in the years following 1870
  and   Italian   unity;   when   they   naively   imagined   their   new   capital   was   to
  become again after seventeen centuries the metropolis of the world。 Whole
  quarters of new houses were run up for a population that failed to appear;
  these houses now stand empty and are fast going to ruin。 So that little in
  the way of entertaining is to be expected from the bankrupts。 They are a
  genial   race;   these   Italian   nobles;   and   welcome   rich   strangers   and   marry
  them   with   much   enthusiasm   …   just   a   shade   too   much;   perhaps   …   the   girl
  counting for so little and her DOT for so much in the matrimonial scale。 It
  is only necessary to keep open house to have the pick of the younger ones
  as your guests。 They will come to entertainments at American houses and
  bring   all   their   relations;   and   dance;   and   dine;   and   flirt   with   great   good
  humor   and   persistency;   but   if   there   is   not   a   good   solid   fortune   in   the
  background; in the best of securities; the prettiest American smiles never
  tempt them beyond flirtation; the season over; they disappear up into their
  mountain villas to wait for a new importation from the States。
  In Rome; as well as in the other Italian cities; there are; of course; still
  to be found Americans in some numbers (where on the Continent will you
  not   find   them?);   living   quietly   for   study   or   economy。   But   they   are   not
  numerous or united enough to form a society; and are apt to be involved in
  bitter strife among themselves。
  Why; you ask; should Americans quarrel among themselves?
  Some years ago I was passing the summer months on the Rhine at a
  tiny German watering…place; principally frequented by English; who were
  all living together in great peace and harmony; until one fatal day; when an
  Earl appeared。 He was a poor Irish Earl; very simple and unoffending; but
  he brought war into that town; heart… burnings; envy; and backbiting。 The
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  English colony at once divided itself into two camps; those who knew the
  Earl   and   those   who   did   not。 And   peace   fled   from  our   little   society。 You
  will find in every foreign capital among the resident Americans; just such
  a state of affairs as convulsed that German spa。 The native 〃swells〃 have
  come   to   be   the   apple   of   discord   that   divides   our   good   people   among
  themselves。   Those   who   have   been   successful   in   knowing   the   foreigners
  avoid   their   compatriots   and   live   with   their   new   friends;   while   the   other
  group   who;   from  laziness;   disinclination;   or   principle   (?)   have   remained
  true   to   their American   circle;   cannot   resist   calling   the   others   snobs;   and
  laughing (a bit enviously; perhaps) at their upward struggles。
  It   is   the   same   in   Florence。   The   little   there   was   left   of   an American
  society went to pieces on that rock。 Our parents forty years ago seem to
  me   to   have   been   much       more   self…respecting   and   sensible。   They   knew
  perfectly well that there was nothing in common between themselves and
  the   Italian   nobility;   and   that   those   good   people   were   not   going   to   put
  themselves out to make the acquaintance of a lot of strangers; mostly of
  another religion; unless it was to be materially to their advantage。 So they
  left them quietly alone。 I do not pretend to judge any one's motives; but
  confess I cannot help regarding with suspicion a foreigner who leaves his
  own      circle   to   mingle     with    strangers。     It  resembles      too    closely    the
  amiabilities of the wolf for the lamb; or the sudden politeness of a school…
  boy to a little girl who has received a box of candies。
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  CHAPTER 37 … The Newport of the
  Past
  FEW of the 〃carriage ladies and gentlemen〃 who disport themselves
  in Newport during the summer months; yachting and dancing through the
  short   season;  then   flitting   away  to   fresh   fields   and   pastures   new;   realize
  that their daintily shod feet have been treading historic ground; or care to
  cast a thought back to the past。 Oddly enough; to the majority of people
  the past is a volume rarely opened。 Not that it bores them to read it; but
  because they; like children; want some one to turn over its yellow leaves
  and point out the pictures to them。 Few of the human motes that dance in
  the rays of the afternoon sun as they slant across the little Park; think of
  the fable which asserts that a sea…worn band of adventurous men; centuries
  before    the   Cabots    or  the  Genoese      discoverer    thought    of  crossing    the
  Atlantic;   had   pushed   bravely   out   over   untried   seas   and   landed   on   this
  rocky coast。 Yet one apparent evidence of their stay tempts our thoughts
  back to the times when it is said to have been built as a bower for a king's
  daughter。 Longfellow;  in   the swinging verse   of his   〃Skeleton in Armor;〃
  breathing   of   the   sea   and   the   Norseman's   fatal   love;   has   thrown   such   a
  glamour   of   poetry   around   the   tower;   that   one   would   fain   believe   all   he
  relates。 The hardy Norsemen; if they ever came here; succumbed in their
  struggle   with   the   native   tribes;   or;   discouraged   by   death   and   hardships;
  sailed away; leaving the clouds of oblivion to close again darkly  around
  this continent; and the fog of discussion to circle around the 〃Old Mill。〃
  The   little   settlement   of   another   race;   speaking   another   tongue;   that
  centuries later sprang up in the shadow of the tower; quickly grew into a
  busy  and   prosperous   city;   which;   like   New York;   its   rival;   was   captured
  and held by the English。 To walk now through some of its quaint; narrow
  streets    is  to  step  back    into  Revolutionary       days。   Hardly    a  house    has
  changed      since    the  time    when    the   red   coats   of   the  British    officers
  brightened   the   prim   perspectives;   and   turned   loyal   young   heads   as   they
  passed。
  At the corner of Spring and Pelham Streets; still stands the residence
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  of General Prescott; who was carried away prisoner by his opponents; they
  having      rowed    down     in   whale…boats      from    Providence       for  the   attack。
  Rochambeau; our French ally; lodged lower down in Mary Street。 In the
  tower of Trinity; one can read the epitaph of the unfortunate Chevalier de
  Ternay; commander of the sea forces; whose body lies near by。 Many years
  later his relative; the Duc de Noailles; when Minister to this country; had
  this simple tablet repaired and made a visit to the spot。
  A   long   period   of   prosperity   followed   the   Revolution;   during   which
  Newport       grew    and   flourished。     Our   pious    and   God…fearing       〃forbears;〃
  having   secured   personal   and   religious   liberty;   proceeded   to   inaugurate   a
  most     successful     and   remunerative       trade   in  rum    and   slaves。    It  was   a
  triangular      transaction     and    yielded     a   three…fold     profit。    The    simple
  population of that day; numbering less than ten thousand souls; possessed
  twenty distilleries; finding it a physical impossibility to drink ALL the rum;
  they   conceived   the   happy   thought   of   sending   the   surplus   across   to   the
  coast   of Africa;   where   it   appears   to   have   been   much   appreciated   by   the
  native chiefs; who eagerly exchanged the pick of their loyal subjects for
  that liquid。 These poor brutes were taken to the West Indies and exchanged
  for sugar; laden with which; the vessels returned to Newport。
  Having      introduced     the   dusky   chieftains     to  the   charms    of   delirium
  tremens   and   their   subjects   to   life…long   slavery;  one   can   almost see   these
  pious   deacons   proceeding   to   church   to   offer   up   thanks   for   the   return   of
  their   successful   vessels。 Alas!   even   〃the   best   laid   schemes   of   mice   and
  men〃 come to an end。 The War of 1812; the opening of the Erie Canal and
  sundry railways struck a blow at Newport commerce; from which it never
  recovered。   The   city   sank   into   oblivion;   and   for   over   thirty   years   not   a