第 38 节
作者:双曲线      更新:2021-04-30 17:21      字数:9322
  he fled down the length of it; his queue streaming; his eyes popping; his
  talons   curved   toward   an   ideal   of   safety;   gibbering   strange   monkey   talk;
  pursued a scant arm's length behind by that infuriated cow。                  Did any one
  help   him?     Not   any。   Every   man   of   that   crew   was   hanging   weak   from
  laughter     to  the   horn    of  his   saddle    or  the   top   of  the   fence。    The
  preternatural solemnity had broken to little bits。            Men came running from
  the bunk…house; only to go into spasms outside; to roll over and over on
  the ground; clutching handfuls of herbage in the agony of their delight。
  At the end of the corral was a narrow chute。               Into this Sang escaped
  as   into   a   burrow。   The   cow   came   too。     Sang;   in   desperation;   seized   a
  pole; but the cow dashed such a feeble weapon aside。                  Sang caught sight
  of   a   little   opening;   too   small   for   cows;   back   into   the   main   corral。 He
  squeezed   through。        The   cow   crashed   through   after   him;   smashing   the
  boards。     At the crucial moment Sang tripped and fell on his face。                   The
  cow missed him by so close a margin that for a moment we thought she
  had hit。    But she had not; and before she could turn; Sang had topped the
  fence   and   was   halfway  to   the   kitchen。    Tom  Waters   always   maintained
  that he spread his Chinese sleeves and flew。              Shortly after a tremendous
  smoke      arose   from     the    kitchen    chimney。      Sang     had   gone    back    to
  cooking。
  Now   that   Mongolian   was   really   in   great   danger;   but   no   one   of   the
  outfit thought for a moment of any but the humorous aspect of the affair。
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  Analogously; in a certain small cow…town I happened to be transient when
  the postmaster  shot   a  Mexican。         Nothing   was done  about it。          The  man
  went right on being postmaster; but he had to set up the drinks because he
  had hit the Mexican in the stomach。             That was considered a poor place to
  hit a man。
  The   entire   town   of   Willcox   knocked   off   work   for     nearly   a   day   to
  while   away   the   tedium   of   an   enforced     wait   there   on   my   part。   They
  wanted   me   to   go   fishing。   One   man   offered  a   team;   the   other   a   saddle…
  horse。     All    expended   much   eloquence   in   directing   me   accurately;   so
  that I should be sure to find exactly the spot where               I could hang my feet
  over     a  bank    beneath    which     there    were     〃a  plumb     plenty    of  fish。〃
  Somehow or other           they raked out miscellaneous tackle。            But they were
  a    little  too   eager。   I   excused    myself    and   hunted     up  a   map。     Sure
  enough      the   lake   was   there;   but   it  had   been     dry    since   a  previous
  geological   period。      The  fish   were undoubtedly  there  too;  but   they  were
  fossil   fish。   I   borrowed   a   pickaxe   and   shovel   and   announced   myself
  as ready to start。
  Outside     the  principal    saloon    in  one   town    hung   a  gong。     When      a
  stranger was observed to enter the saloon; that gong was sounded。                      Then
  it behooved him to treat those who came in answer to the summons。
  But   when   it   comes   to   a   case   of   real   hospitality   or   helpfulness;   your
  cowboy       is  there  every    time。    You    are   welcome      to  food   and    shelter
  without price; whether he is at home or not。              Only it is etiquette to leave
  your   name   and   thanks   pinned   somewhere   about   the   place。          Otherwise
  your intrusion may be considered in the light of a theft; and you may be
  pursued accordingly。
  Contrary   to   general   opinion;   the   cowboy   is   not   a   dangerous   man   to
  those not looking for trouble。         There are occasional exceptions; of course;
  but they belong to the universal genus of bully; and can be found among
  any class。      Attend to your own business; be cool and good…natured; and
  your skin is safe。       Then when it is really 〃up to you;〃 be a man; you will
  never lack for friends。
  The Sierras; especially towards the south where the meadows are wide
  and numerous; are full of cattle in small bands。               They come up from the
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  desert    about   the   first  of  June;  and   are   driven   back    again   to  the  arid
  countries as soon as the autumn storms begin。               In the very high land they
  are few; and to be left to their own devices; but now we entered a new sort
  of country。
  Below     Farewell     Gap    and   the  volcanic    regions    one's   surroundings
  change entirely。       The meadows become high flat valleys; often miles in
  extent; the mountainswhile registering big on the aneroid are so little
  elevated above the plateaus that a few thousand feet is all of their apparent
  height;    the   passes   are  low;   the  slopes    easy;  the   trails  good;   the  rock
  outcrops few; the hills grown with forests to their very tops。              Altogether it
  is a country easy to ride through; rich in grazing; cool and green; with its
  eight   thousand   feet   of   elevation。    Consequently   during   the   hot   months
  thousands of desert cattle are pastured here; and with them come many of
  the desert men。
  Our first intimation of these things was in the volcanic region where
  swim the golden trout。         From the advantage of a hill we looked far down
  to a hair…grass meadow through which twisted tortuously a brook; and by
  the   side   of   the   brook;   belittled   by   distance;   was   a   miniature   man。 We
  could see distinctly his every movement; as he approached cautiously the
  stream's edge; dropped his short line at the end of a stick over the bank;
  and   then   yanked   bodily   the   fish   from   beneath。     Behind   him   stood   his
  pony。     We could make out in the clear air the coil of his raw… hide 〃rope;〃
  the glitter of his silver bit; the metal points on his saddle skirts; the polish
  of   his   six…   shooter;   the   gleam   of   his   fish;   all   the   details   of   his   costume。
  Yet he was fully a mile distant。           After a time he picked up his string of
  fish;  mounted;  and   jogged   loosely  away  at   the   cow…pony's   little   Spanish
  trot toward the south。        Over a week later; having caught golden trout and
  climbed Mount Whitney; we followed him and so came to the great central
  camp at Monache Meadows。
  Imagine an island…dotted lake of grass four or five miles long by two
  or three wide to which slope regular shores of stony soil planted with trees。
  Imagine on the very edge of that lake an especially fine grove perhaps a
  quarter of a mile in length; beneath whose trees a dozen different outfits of
  cowboys are camped for the summer。               You must place a herd of ponies in
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  the   foreground;   a   pine   mountain   at   the   back;   an   unbroken   ridge   across
  ahead;   cattle   dotted   here   and   there;   thousands   of   ravens   wheeling   and
  croaking   and   flapping   everywhere;   a   marvelous   clear   sun   and   blue   sky。
  The     camps    were    mostly    open;   though    a  few    possessed     tents。   They
  differed     from    the  ordinary     in  that   they   had   racks    for  saddles    and
  equipments。       Especially well laid out were the cooking arrangements。                 A
  dozen      accommodating          springs     supplied     fresh    water     with      the
  conveniently regular spacing of faucets。
  Towards evening the men jingled in。             This summer camp was almost
  in the nature of a vacation to them after the hard work of the desert。                  All
  they had to do was to ride about the pleasant hills examining that the cattle
  did not stray nor get into trouble。          It was fun for them; and they were in
  high spirits。
  Our   immediate   neighbors   were   an   old   man   of   seventy…two   and   his
  grandson of twenty…five。          At least the old man said he was seventy…two。
  I should have guessed fifty。          He was as straight as an arrow; wiry; lean;
  clear…eyed; and had; without food; ridden twelve hours after some strayed
  cattle。    On arriving he threw off his saddle; turned his horse loose; and set
  about the construction