第 123 节
作者:随便看看      更新:2021-02-25 00:47      字数:9321
  seemed about five…and…thirty; and was rather good…looking。  She
  walked somewhat slowly; which was probably more owing to a large
  bundle which she bore in her hand than to her path being up…hill。
  〃Good evening;〃 said I; stopping。
  〃Good evening; your honour;〃 said she; stopping and brightly
  panting。
  〃Do you come from far?〃 said I。
  〃Not very far; your honour; but quite far enough for a poor feeble
  woman。〃
  〃Are you Welsh?〃 said I。
  〃Och no! your honour; I am Mary Bane from Dunmanway in the kingdom
  of Ireland。〃
  〃And what are you doing here?〃 said I。
  〃Och sure!  I am travelling the country with soft goods。〃
  〃Are you going far?〃 said I。
  〃Merely to the village a little farther up; your honour。〃
  〃I am going farther;〃 said I; 〃I am thinking of passing the night
  at the 'Pump Saint。'〃
  〃Well; then; I would just advise your honour to do no such thing;
  but to turn back with me to the village above; where there is an
  illigant inn where your honour will be well accommodated。〃
  〃Oh; I saw that as I came past;〃 said I; 〃I don't think there is
  much accommodation there。〃
  〃Oh; your honour is clane mistaken; there is always an illigant
  fire and an illigant bed too。〃
  〃Is there only one bed?〃 said I。
  〃Oh; yes; there are two beds; one for the accommodation of the
  people of the house and the other for that of the visitors。〃
  〃And do the visitors sleep together then?〃 said I。
  〃Oh yes! unless they wish to be unsociable。  Those who are not
  disposed to be sociable sleeps in the chimney…corners。〃
  〃Ah;〃 said I; 〃I see it is a very agreeable inn; however; I shall
  go on to the 'Pump Saint。'〃
  〃I am sorry for it; your honour; for your honour's sake; your
  honour won't be half so illigantly served at the 'Pump Saint' as
  there above。〃
  〃Of what religion are you?〃 said I。
  〃Oh; I'm a Catholic; just like your honour; for if I am not clane
  mistaken your honour is an Irishman。〃
  〃Who is your spiritual director?〃 said I。
  〃Why; then; it is just Father Toban; your honour; whom of course
  your honour knows。〃
  〃Oh yes!〃 said I; 〃when you next see him present my respects to
  him。〃
  〃What name shall I mention; your honour?〃
  〃Shorsha Borroo;〃 said I。
  〃Oh; then I was right in taking your honour for an Irishman。  None
  but a raal Paddy bears that name。  A credit to your honour is your
  name; for it is a famous name; (17) and a credit to your name is
  your honour; for it is a neat man without a bend you are。  God
  bless your honour and good night! and may you find dacent quarters
  in the 'Pump Saint。'〃
  Leaving Mary Bane I proceeded on my way。  The evening was rather
  fine but twilight was coming rapidly on。  I reached the bottom of
  the valley and soon overtook a young man dressed something like a
  groom。  We entered into conversation。  He spoke Welsh and a little
  English。  His Welsh I had great difficulty in understanding; as it
  was widely different from that which I had been accustomed to。  He
  asked me where I was going to; I replied to the 〃Pump Saint;〃 and
  then enquired if he was in service。
  〃I am;〃 said he。
  〃With whom do you live?〃 said I。
  〃With Mr Johnes of Dol Cothi;〃 he answered。
  Struck by the word Cothi; I asked if Dol Cothi was ever called Glyn
  Cothi。
  〃Oh yes;〃 said he; 〃frequently。〃
  〃How odd;〃 thought I to myself; 〃that I should have stumbled all of
  a sudden upon the country of my old friend Lewis Glyn Cothi; the
  greatest poet after Ab Gwilym of all Wales!〃
  〃Is Cothi a river?〃 said I to my companion。
  〃It is;〃 said he。
  Presently we came to a bridge over a small river。
  〃Is this river the Cothi?〃 said I。
  〃No;〃 said he; 〃this is the Twrch; the bridge is called Pont y
  Twrch。〃
  〃The bridge of Twrch or the hog;〃 said I to myself; 〃there is a
  bridge of the same name in the Scottish Highlands; not far from the
  pass of the Trossachs。  I wonder whether it has its name from the
  same cause as this; namely; from passing over a river called the
  Twrch or Torck; which word in Gaelic signifies boar or hog even as
  it does in Welsh。〃  It had now become nearly dark。  After
  proceeding some way farther I asked the groom if we were far from
  the inn of the 〃Pump Saint。〃
  〃Close by;〃 said he; and presently pointing to a large building on
  the right…hand side he said:  〃This is the inn of the 'Pump Saint;'
  sir。  Nos Da'chi!〃
  CHAPTER XCVI
  〃Pump Saint〃 … Pleasant Residence … The Watery Coom … Philological
  Fact … Evening Service … Meditation。
  I ENTERED the inn of the 〃Pump Saint。〃  It was a comfortable old…
  fashioned place; with a very large kitchen and a rather small
  parlour。  The people were kind and attentive; and soon set before
  me in the parlour a homely but savoury supper; and a foaming
  tankard of ale。  After supper I went into the kitchen; and sitting
  down with the good folks in an immense chimney…corner; listened to
  them talking in their Carmarthenshire dialect till it was time to
  go to rest; when I was conducted to a large chamber where I found
  an excellent and clean bed awaiting me; in which I enjoyed a
  refreshing sleep; occasionally visited by dreams in which some of
  the scenes of the preceding day again appeared before me; but in an
  indistinct and misty manner。
  Awaking in the very depth of the night I thought I heard the
  murmuring of a river; I listened and soon found that I had not been
  deceived。  〃I wonder whether that river is the Cothi;〃 said I; 〃the
  stream of the immortal Lewis。  I will suppose that it is〃 … and
  rendered quite happy by the idea; I soon fell asleep again。
  I arose about eight and went out to look about me。  The village
  consists of little more than half…a…dozen houses。  The name 〃Pump
  Saint〃 signifies 〃Five Saints。〃  Why the place is called so I know
  not。  Perhaps the name originally belonged to some chapel which
  stood either where the village now stands or in the neighbourhood。
  The inn is a good specimen of an ancient Welsh hostelry。  Its gable
  is to the road and its front to a little space on one side of the
  way。  At a little distance up the road is a blacksmith's shop。  The
  country around is interesting:  on the north…west is a fine wooded
  hill … to the south a valley through which flows the Cothi; a fair
  river; the one whose murmur had come so pleasingly upon my ear in
  the depth of night。
  After breakfast I departed for Llandovery。  Presently I came to a
  lodge on the left…hand beside an ornamental gate at the bottom of
  an avenue leading seemingly to a gentleman's seat。  On inquiring of
  a woman; who sat at the door of the lodge; to whom the grounds
  belonged; she said to Mr Johnes; and that if I pleased I was
  welcome to see them。  I went in and advanced along the avenue;
  which consisted of very noble oaks; on the right was a vale in
  which a beautiful brook was running north and south。  Beyond the
  vale to the east were fine wooded hills。  I thought I had never
  seen a more pleasing locality; though I saw it to great
  disadvantage; the day being dull; and the season the latter fall。
  Presently; on the avenue making a slight turn; I saw the house; a
  plain but comfortable gentleman's seat with wings。  It looked to
  the south down the dale。  〃With what satisfaction I could live in
  that house;〃 said I to myself; 〃if backed by a couple of thousands
  a…year。  With what gravity could I sign a warrant in its library;
  and with what dreamy comfort translate an ode of Lewis Glyn Cothi;
  my tankard of rich ale beside me。  I wonder whether the proprietor
  is fond of the old bard and keeps good ale。  Were I an Irishman
  instead of a Norfolk man I would go in and ask him。〃
  Returning to the road I proceeded on my journey。  I passed over
  Pont y Rhanedd or the bridge of the Rhanedd; a small river flowing
  through a dale; then by Clas Hywel; a lofty mountain which appeared
  to have three heads。  After walking for some miles I came to where
  the road divided into two。  By a sign…post I saw that both led to
  Llandovery; one by Porth y Rhyd and the other by Llanwrda。  The
  distance by the first was six miles and a half; by the latter eight
  and a half。  Feeling quite the reverse of tired I chose the longest
  road; namely the one by Llanwrda; along which I sped at a great
  rate。
  In a little time I found myself in the heart of a romantic winding
  dell; overhung with trees of various kinds; which a tall man whom I
  met told me was called Cwm Dwr Llanwrda; or the Watery Coom of
  Llanwrda; and well might it be called the Watery Coom; for there
  were several bridges in it; two within a few hundred yards of each
  other。  The same man told me that the war was going on very badly;
  that our soldiers were suffering much; and that the snow was two
  feet deep at Sebastopol。
  Passing through Llanwrda; a pretty village with a singular…looking
  church; close to which stood an enormous yew; I entered a valley
  which I learned was the valley of the Towey。  I directed my course
  to the north; having the river on my right; which runs towards the
  south in a spacious bed; which; however; except in times of flood;
  it scarcely half fills。  Beautiful hills were on other side; partly
  cultivated;