第 109 节
作者:随便看看      更新:2021-02-25 00:47      字数:9321
  dank and wet with spray and mist; are distilling drops in showers
  from their boughs。
  But where is the bridge; the celebrated bridge of the Evil Man?
  From the bottom of the first flight of steps leading down into the
  hollow you see a modern…looking bridge; bestriding a deep chasm or
  cleft to the south…east; near the top of the dingle of the Monks'
  River; over it lies the road to Pont Erwyd。  That; however; is not
  the Devil's Bridge; but about twenty feet below that bridge; and
  completely overhung by it; don't you see a shadowy; spectral
  object; something like a bow; which likewise bestrides the chasm?
  You do!  Well; that shadowy; spectral object is the celebrated
  Devil's Bridge; or; as the timorous peasants of the locality call
  it; the Pont y Gwr Drwg。  It is now merely preserved as an object
  of curiosity; the bridge above being alone used for transit; and is
  quite inaccessible except to birds and the climbing wicked boys of
  the neighbourhood; who sometimes at the risk of their lives
  contrive to get upon it from the frightfully steep northern bank;
  and snatch a fearful joy; as; whilst lying on their bellies; they
  poke their heads over its sides worn by age; without parapet to
  prevent them from falling into the horrid gulf below。  But from the
  steps in the hollow the view of the Devil's Bridge; and likewise of
  the cleft; is very slight and unsatisfactory。  To view it properly;
  and the wonders connected with it; you must pass over the bridge
  above it; and descend a precipitous dingle on the eastern side till
  you come to a small platform in a crag。  Below you now is a
  frightful cavity; at the bottom of which the waters of the Monks'
  River; which comes tumbling from a glen to the east; whirl; boil;
  and hiss in a horrid pot or cauldron; called in the language of the
  country Twll yn y graig; or the hole in the rock; in a manner truly
  tremendous。  On your right is a slit; probably caused by volcanic
  force; through which the waters after whirling in the cauldron
  eventually escape。  The slit is wonderfully narrow; considering its
  altitude which is very great … considerably upwards of a hundred
  feet。  Nearly above you; crossing the slit; which is partially
  wrapt in darkness; is the far…famed bridge; the Bridge of the Evil
  Man; a work which; though crumbling and darkly grey; does much
  honour to the hand which built it; whether it was the hand of Satan
  or of a monkish architect; for the arch is chaste and beautiful;
  far superior in every respect; except in safety and utility; to the
  one above it; which from this place you have not the mortification
  of seeing。  Gaze on these objects; namely; the horrid seething pot
  or cauldron; the gloomy volcanic slit; and the spectral; shadowy
  Devil's Bridge for about three minutes; allowing a minute to each;
  then scramble up the bank and repair to your inn; and have no more
  sight…seeing that day; for you have seen enough。  And if pleasant
  recollections do not haunt you through life of the noble falls and
  the beautiful wooded dingles to the west of the bridge of the Evil
  One; and awful and mysterious ones of the monks' boiling cauldron;
  the long; savage; shadowy cleft; and the grey; crumbling; spectral
  bridge; I say boldly that you must be a very unpoetical person
  indeed。
  CHAPTER LXXXV
  Dinner at the Hospice … Evening Gossip … A Day of Rain … A Scanty
  Flock … The Bridge of the Minister … Legs in Danger。
  I DINED in a parlour of the inn commanding an excellent view of the
  hollow and the Rheidol fall。  Shortly after I had dined; a fierce
  storm of rain and wind came on。  It lasted for an hour; and then
  everything again became calm。  Just before evening was closing in I
  took a stroll to a village which stands a little way to the west of
  the inn。  It consists only of a few ruinous edifices; and is
  chiefly inhabited by miners and their families。  I saw no men; but
  plenty of women and children。  Seeing a knot of women and girls
  chatting I went up and addressed them。  Some of the girls were very
  good…looking; none of the party had any English; all of them were
  very civil。  I first talked to them about religion; and found that;
  without a single exception; they were Calvinistic…Methodists。  I
  next talked to them about the Plant de Bat。  They laughed heartily
  at the first mention of their name; but seemed to know very little
  about their history。  After some twenty minutes' discourse I bade
  them good…night and returned to my inn。
  The night was very cold; the people of the house; however; made up
  for me a roaring fire of turf; and I felt very comfortable。  About
  ten o'clock I went to bed; intending next morning to go and see
  Plynlimmon; which I had left behind me on entering Cardiganshire。
  When the morning came; however; I saw at once that I had entered
  upon a day by no means adapted for excursions of any considerable
  length; for it rained terribly; but this gave me very little
  concern; my time was my own; and I said to myself:  〃If I can't go
  to…day I can perhaps go to…morrow。〃  After breakfast I passed some
  hours in a manner by no means disagreeable; sometimes meditating
  before my turf fire; with my eyes fixed upon it; and sometimes
  sitting by the window; with my eyes fixed upon the cascade of the
  Rheidol; which was every moment becoming more magnificent。  At
  length about twelve o'clock; fearing that if I stayed within I
  should lose my appetite for dinner; which has always been one of
  the greatest of my enjoyments; I determined to go and see the
  Minister's Bridge which my friend the old mining captain had spoken
  to me about。  I knew that I should get a wetting by doing so; for
  the weather still continued very bad; but I don't care much for a
  wetting provided I have a good roof; a good fire; and good fare to
  betake myself to afterwards。
  So I set out。  As I passed over the bridge of the Mynach River I
  looked down over the eastern balustrade。  The Bridge of the Evil
  One; which is just below it; was quite invisible。  I could see;
  however; the pot or crochan distinctly enough; and a horrible sight
  it presented。  The waters were whirling round in a manner to
  describe which any word but frenzied would be utterly powerless。
  Half…an…hour's walking brought me to the little village through
  which I had passed the day before。  Going up to a house I knocked
  at the door; and a middle…aged man opening it; I asked him the way
  to the Bridge of the Minister。  He pointed to the little chapel to
  the west; and said that the way lay past it; adding that he would
  go with me himself; as he wanted to go to the hills on the other
  side to see his sheep。
  We got presently into discourse。  He at first talked broken
  English; but soon began to speak his native language。  I asked him
  if the chapel belonged to the Methodists。
  〃It is not a chapel;〃 said he; 〃it is a church。〃
  〃Do many come to it?〃 said I。
  〃Not many; sir; for the Methodists are very powerful here。  Not
  more than forty or fifty come。〃
  〃Do you belong to the Church?〃 said I。
  〃I do; sir … thank God!〃
  〃You may well be thankful;〃 said I; 〃for it is a great privilege to
  belong to the Church of England。〃
  〃It is so; sir;〃 said the man; 'though few; alas! think so。〃
  I found him a highly…intelligent person。  On my talking to him
  about the name of the place; he said that some called it Spytty
  Cynfyn; and others Spytty Cynwyl; and that both Cynwyl and Cynfyn
  were the names of people; to one or other of which the place was
  dedicated; and that; like the place farther on called Spytty
  Ystwyth; it was in the old time a hospital or inn for the
  convenience of the pilgrims going to the great monastery of Ystrad
  Flur or Strata Florida。
  Passing through a field or two we came to the side of a very deep
  ravine; down which there was a zigzag path leading to the bridge。
  The path was very steep; and; owing to the rain; exceedingly
  slippery。  For some way it led through a grove of dwarf oaks; by
  grasping the branches of which I was enabled to support myself
  tolerably well; nearly at the bottom; however; where the path was
  most precipitous; the trees ceased altogether。  Fearing to trust my
  legs; I determined to slide down; and put my resolution in
  practice; arriving at a little shelf close by the bridge without
  any accident。  The man; accustomed to the path; went down in the
  usual manner。  The bridge consisted of a couple of planks and a
  pole flung over a chasm about ten feet wide; on the farther side of
  which was a precipice with a path at least quite as steep as the
  one down which I had come; and without any trees or shrubs by which
  those who used it might support themselves。  The torrent rolled
  about nine feet below the bridge; its channel was tortuous; on the
  south…east side of the bridge was a cauldron; like that on which I
  had looked down from the bridge over the river of the monks。  The
  man passed over the bridge and I followed him; on the other side we
  stopped and turned round。  The river was rushing and surging; the
  pot was boiling and roaring; and everything looked wild and savage;
  but the locality; for