the　bitterness；　do　you　see；　will　destroy　the　worm　（11）　in　the
  liver；　which　learned　men　say　is　the　cause　of　the　disorder。〃
  We　left　the　brook　on　our　left　hand　and　passed　by　some　ruined　walls
  which　my　guide　informed　me　had　once　belonged　to　houses　but　were　now
  used　as　sheepfolds。　　After　walking　several　miles；　according　to　my
  computation；　we　began　to　ascend　a　considerable　elevation　covered
  with　brown　heath　and　ling。　　As　we　went　on　the　dogs　frequently　put
  up　a　bird　of　a　black　colour；　which　flew　away　with　a　sharp　whirr。
  〃What　bird　is　that？〃　said　I。
  〃Ceiliog　y　grug；　the　cock　of　the　heath；〃　replied　my　guide。　　〃It　is
  said　to　be　very　good　eating；　but　I　have　never　tasted　it。　　The
  ceiliog　y　grug　is　not　food　for　the　like　of　me。　　It　goes　to　feed　the
  rich　Saxons　in　Caer　Ludd。〃
  We　reached　the　top　of　the　elevation。
  〃Yonder；〃　said　my　guide；　pointing　to　a　white　bare　place　a　great　way
  off　to　the　west；　〃is　Bala　road。〃
  〃Then　I　will　not　trouble　you　to　go　any　further；〃　said　I；　〃I　can
  find　my　way　thither。〃
  〃No；　you　could　not；〃　said　my　guide；　〃if　you　were　to　make　straight
  for　that　place　you　would　perhaps　fall　down　a　steep；　or　sink　into　a
  peat　hole　up　to　your　middle；　or　lose　your　way　and　never　find　the
  road；　for　you　would　soon　lose　sight　of　that　place。　　Follow　me；　and
  I　will　lead　you　into　a　part　of　the　road　more　to　the　left；　and　then
  you　can　find　your　way　easily　enough　to　that　bare　place；　and　from
  thence　to　Bala。〃　　Thereupon　he　moved　in　a　southerly　direction　down
  the　steep　and　I　followed　him。　　In　about　twenty　minutes　we　came　to
  the　road。
  〃Now；〃　said　my　guide；　〃you　are　on　the　road；　bear　to　the　right　and
  you　cannot　miss　the　way　to　Bala。〃
  〃How　far　is　it　to　Bala？〃　said　I。
  〃About　twelve　miles；〃　he　replied。
  I　gave　him　a　trifle；　asking　at　the　same　time　if　it　was　sufficient。
  〃Too　much　by　one…half；〃　he　replied；　〃many；　many　thanks。〃　　He　then
  shook　me　by　the　hand；　and　accompanied　by　his　dogs　departed；　not
  back　over　the　moor；　but　in　a　southerly　direction　down　the　road。
  Wending　my　course　to　the　north；　I　came　to　the　white　bare　spot　which
  I　had　seen　from　the　moor；　and　which　was　in　fact　the　top　of　a
  considerable　elevation　over　which　the　road　passed。　　Here　I　turned
  and　looked　at　the　hills　I　had　come　across。　　There　they　stood；
  darkly　blue；　a　rain　cloud；　like　ink；　hanging　over　their　summits。
  Oh；　the　wild　hills　of　Wales；　the　land　of　old　renown　and　of　wonder；
  the　land　of　Arthur　and　Merlin！
  The　road　now　lay　nearly　due　west。　　Rain　came　on；　but　it　was　at　my
  back；　so　I　expanded　my　umbrella；　flung　it　over　my　shoulder　and
  laughed。　　Oh；　how　a　man　laughs　who　has　a　good　umbrella　when　he　has
  the　rain　at　his　back；　aye　and　over　his　head　too；　and　at　all　times
  when　it　rains　except　when　the　rain　is　in　his　face；　when　the
  umbrella　is　not　of　much　service。　　Oh；　what　a　good　friend　to　a　man
  is　an　umbrella　in　rain　time；　and　likewise　at　many　other　times。
  What　need　he　fear　if　a　wild　bull　or　a　ferocious　dog　attacks　him；
  provided　he　has　a　good　umbrella？　　He　unfurls　the　umbrella　in　the
  face　of　the　bull　or　dog；　and　the　brute　turns　round　quite　scared；
  and　runs　away。　　Or　if　a　footpad　asks　him　for　his　money；　what　need
  he　care　provided　he　has　an　umbrella？　　He　threatens　to　dodge　the
  ferrule　into　the　ruffian's　eye；　and　the　fellow　starts　back　and
  says；　〃Lord；　sir！　　I　meant　no　harm。　　I　never　saw　you　before　in　all
  my　life。　　I　merely　meant　a　little　fun。〃　　Moreover；　who　doubts　that
  you　are　a　respectable　character　provided　you　have　an　umbrella？　　You
  go　into　a　public…house　and　call　for　a　pot　of　beer；　and　the　publican
  puts　it　down　before　you　with　one　hand　without　holding　out　the　other
  for　the　money；　for　he　sees　that　you　have　an　umbrella　and
  consequently　property。　　And　what　respectable　man；　when　you　overtake
  him　on　the　way　and　speak　to　him；　will　refuse　to　hold　conversation
  with　you；　provided　you　have　an　umbrella？　　No　one。　　The　respectable
  man　sees　you　have　an　umbrella；　and　concludes　that　you　do　not　intend
  to　rob　him；　and　with　justice；　for　robbers　never　carry　umbrellas。
  Oh；　a　tent；　a　shield；　a　lance；　and　a　voucher　for　character　is　an
  umbrella。　　Amongst　the　very　best　friends　of　man　must　be　reckoned　an
  umbrella。　（12）
  The　way　lay　over　dreary；　moory　hills；　at　last　it　began　to　descend；
  and　I　saw　a　valley　below　me　with　a　narrow　river　running　through　it；
  to　which　wooded　hills　sloped　down；　far　to　the　west　were　blue
  mountains。　　The　scene　was　beautiful　but　melancholy；　the　rain　had
  passed　away；　but　a　gloomy　almost　November　sky　was　above；　and　the
  mists　of　night　were　coming　down　apace。
  I　crossed　a　bridge　at　the　bottom　of　the　valley　and　presently　saw　a
  road　branching　to　the　right。　　I　paused；　but　after　a　little　time
  went　straight　forward。　　Gloomy　woods　were　on　each　side　of　me　and
  night　had　come　down。　　Fear　came　upon　me　that　I　was　not　on　the　right
  road；　but　I　saw　no　house　at　which　I　could　inquire；　nor　did　I　see　a
  single　individual　for　miles　of　whom　I　could　ask。　　At　last　I　heard
  the　sound　of　hatchets　in　a　dingle　on　my　right；　and　catching　a
  glimpse　of　a　gate　at　the　head　of　a　path；　which　led　down　into　it；　I
  got　over　it。　　After　descending　some　time　I　hallooed。　　The　noise　of
  the　hatchets　ceased。　　I　hallooed　again；　and　a　voice　cried　in　Welsh；
  〃What　do　you　want？〃　　〃To　know　the　way　to　Bala；〃　I　replied。　　There
  was　no　answer；　but　presently　I　heard　steps；　and　the　figure　of　a　man
  drew　nigh；　half　undistinguishable　in　the　darkness；　and　saluted　me。
  I　returned　his　salutation；　and　told　him　I　wanted　to　know　the　way　to
  Bala。　　He　told　me；　and　I　found　I　had　been　going　right。　　I　thanked
  him　and　regained　the　road。　　I　sped　onward；　and　in　about　half…an…
  hour　saw　some　houses；　then　a　bridge；　then　a　lake　on　my　left；　which
  I　recognised　as　the　lake　of　Bala。　　I　skirted　the　end　of　it；　and
  came　to　a　street　cheerfully　lighted　up；　and　in　a　minute　more　was　in
  the　White　Lion　Inn。
  CHAPTER　LXXII
  Cheerful　Fire　…　Immense　Man　…　Doctor　Jones　…　Recognition　…　A　Fast
  Young　Man　…　Excellent　Remarks　…　Disappointment。
  I　WAS　conducted　into　the　coffee…room　of　the　White　Lion　by　a　little
  freckled　maid　whom　I　saw　at　the　bar；　and　whom　I　told　that　I　was
  come　to　pass　the　night　at　the　inn。　　The　room　presented　an　agreeable
  contrast　to　the　gloomy；　desolate　places　through　which　I　had　lately
  come。　　A　good　fire　blazed　in　the　grate；　and　there　were　four　lights
  on　the　table。　　Lolling　in　a　chair　by　one　side　of　the　fire　was　an
  individual　at　the　sight　of　whom　I　almost　started。　　He　was　an
  immense　man；　weighing　I　should　say　at　least　eighteen　stone；　with
  brown　hair；　thinnish　whiskers；　half…ruddy；　half…tallowy　complexion；
  and　dressed　in　a　brown　sporting　coat；　drab　breeches；　and　yellow…
  topped　boots　…　in　every　respect　the　exact　image　of　the
  Wolverhampton　gent　or　hog…merchant　who　had　appeared　to　me　in　my
  dream　at　Llangollen；　whilst　asleep　before　the　fire。　　Yes；　the　very
  counterpart　of　that　same　gent　looked　this　enormous　fellow；　save　and
  except　that　he　did　not　appear　to　be　more　than　seven　or　eight　and
  twenty；　whereas　the　hog…merchant　looked　at　least　fifty。　　Laying　my
  satchel　down　I　took　a　seat　and　ordered　the　maid　to　get　some　dinner
  for　me；　and　then　asked　what　had　become　of　the　waiter；　Tom　Jenkins。
  〃He　is　not　here　at　present；　sir；〃　said　the　freckled　maid；　〃he　is　at
  his　own　house。〃
  〃And　why　is　he　not　here？〃　said　I。
  〃Because　he　is　not　wanted；　sir；　he　only　comes　in　summer　when　the
  house　is　full　of　people。〃
  And　having　said　this　the　little　freckled　damsel　left　the　room。
  〃Reither　a　cool　night；　sir！〃　said　the　enormous　man　after　we　had
  been　alone　together　a　few　minutes。
  I　again　almost　started；　for　he　spoke　with　the　same　kind　of　half…
  piping；　half…wheezing　voice；　with　which　methought　the　Wolverhampton
  gent　had　spoken　to　me　in　my　dream。
  〃Yes；〃　said　I；　〃it　is　rather　cold　out　abroad；　but　I　don't　care　as　I
  am　not　going　any　farther　to…night。〃
  〃That's　not　my　case；〃　said　the　stout　man；　〃I　have　got　to　go　ten
  miles；　as　far　as　Cerrig　Drudion；　from　which　place　I　came　this
  afternoon　in　a　wehicle。〃
  〃Do　you　reside　at　Cerrig　Drudion？〃　said　I。
  〃No；〃　said　the　stout　man；　whose　dialect　I　shall　not　attempt　further
  to　imitate；　〃but　I　have　been　staying　there　some　time；　for　happening
  to　go　there　a　month　or　two　ago　I　was　tempted　to　take　up　my　quarters
  at　the　inn。　　A　very　nice　inn　it　is；　and　the　landlady　a　very
  agreeable　woman；　and　her　daughters　very　agreeable　young　ladies。〃
  〃Is　this　the　first　time　you　have　been　at　Bala？〃
  〃Yes；　the　first　time。　　I　had　heard　a　good　deal　about　it；　and　wished
  to　see　it。　　So　to…day；　having　the　offer　of　a　vehicle　at　a　cheap
  rate；　I　came　over　with　two　or　three　other　gents；　amongst　whom　is
  Doctor　Jones。〃
  〃Dear　me〃　said　I；　〃is　Doctor　Jones　in　Bala？〃
  〃Yes；〃　said　the　stout　man。　　〃Do　you　know　him？〃
  〃Oh　yes；〃　said　I；　〃and　have　a　great　respect　for　him；　his　like　for
  politeness　and　general　learning　is　scarcely　to　be　found　in
  Britain。〃
  〃Only　think；〃　said　the　stout　man。　　〃Well；　I　never　heard　that　of　him
  before。〃
  Wishing　to　see　my　sleeping　room　before　I　got　my　dinner；　I　now　rose
  and　was　making　for　the　door；　when　it　opened；　and　in　came　Doctor
  Jones。　　He　had　a　muffler　round　his　neck；　and　walked　ra