第 17 节
作者:津夏      更新:2021-02-24 22:21      字数:9322
  These two mountains; which belong to the great system of which Marcy is the giant centre; and are in the neighborhood of five thousand feet high; on the southern outposts of the great mountains; form the gate…posts of the pass into the south country。  This opening between them is called Hunter's Pass。  It is the most elevated and one of the wildest of the mountain passes。  Its summit is thirty…five hundred feet high。  In former years it is presumed the hunters occasionally followed the game through; but latterly it is rare to find a guide who has been that way; and the tin…can and paper…collar tourists have not yet made it a runway。  This seclusion is due not to any inherent difficulty of travel; but to the fact that it lies a little out of the way。
  We went through it last summer; making our way into the jaws from the foot of the great slides on Dix; keeping along the ragged spurs of the mountain through the virgin forest。  The pass is narrow; walled in on each side by precipices of granite; and blocked up with bowlders and fallen trees; and beset with pitfalls in the roads ingeniously covered with fair…seeming moss。  When the climber occasionally loses sight of a leg in one of these treacherous holes; and feels a cold sensation in his foot; he learns that he has dipped into the sources of the Boquet; which emerges lower down into falls and rapids; and; recruited by creeping tributaries; goes brawling through the forest basin; and at last comes out an amiable and boat… bearing stream in the valley of Elizabeth Town。  From the summit another rivulet trickles away to the south; and finds its way through a frightful tamarack swamp; and through woods scarred by ruthless lumbering; to Mud Pond; a quiet body of water; with a ghastly fringe of dead trees; upon which people of grand intentions and weak vocabulary are trying to fix the name of Elk Lake。  The descent of the pass on that side is precipitous and exciting。  The way is in the stream itself; and a considerable portion of the distance we swung ourselves down the faces of considerable falls; and tumbled down cascades。  The descent; however; was made easy by the fact that it rained; and every footstep was yielding and slippery。  Why sane people; often church…members respectably connected; will subject themselves to this sort of treatment;be wet to the skin; bruised by the rocks; and flung about among the bushes and dead wood until the most necessary part of their apparel hangs in shreds;is one of the delightful mysteries of these woods。  I suspect that every man is at heart a roving animal; and likes; at intervals; to revert to the condition of the bear and the catamount。
  There is no trail through Hunter's Pass; which; as I have intimated; is the least frequented portion of this wilderness。  Yet we were surprised to find a well…beaten path a considerable portion of the way and wherever a path is possible。  It was not a mere deer's runway: these are found everywhere in the mountains。  It is trodden by other and larger animals; and is; no doubt; the highway of beasts。 It bears marks of having been so for a long period; and probably a period long ago。  Large animals are not common in these woods now; and you seldom meet anything fiercer than the timid deer and the gentle bear。  But in days gone by; Hunter's Pass was the highway of the whole caravan of animals who were continually going backward; and forwards; in the aimless; roaming way that beasts have; between Mud Pond and the Boquet Basin。  I think I can see now the procession of them between the heights of Dix and Nipple Top; the elk and the moose shambling along; cropping the twigs; the heavy bear lounging by with his exploring nose; the frightened deer trembling at every twig that snapped beneath his little hoofs; intent on the lily…pads of the pond; the raccoon and the hedgehog; sidling along; and the velvet… footed panther; insouciant and conscienceless; scenting the path with a curious glow in his eye; or crouching in an overhanging tree ready to drop into the procession at the right moment。  Night and day; year after year; I see them going by; watched by the red fox and the comfortably clad sable; and grinned at by the black cat;the innocent; the vicious; the timid and the savage; the shy and the bold; the chattering slanderer and the screaming prowler; the industrious and the peaceful; the tree…top critic and the crawling biter;just as it is elsewhere。  It makes me blush for my species when I think of it。  This charming society is nearly extinct now: of the larger animals there only remain the bear; who minds his own business more thoroughly than any person I know; and the deer; who would like to be friendly with men; but whose winning face and gentle ways are no protection from the savageness of man; and who is treated with the same unpitying destruction as the snarling catamount。  I have read in history that the amiable natives of Hispaniola fared no better at the hands of the brutal Spaniards than the fierce and warlike Caribs。  As society is at present constituted in Christian countries; I would rather for my own security be a cougar than a fawn。
  There is not much of romantic interest in the Adirondacks。  Out of the books of daring travelers; nothing。  I do not know that the Keene Valley has any history。  The mountains always stood here; and the Au Sable; flowing now in shallows and now in rippling reaches over the sands and pebbles; has for ages filled the air with continuous and soothing sounds。  Before the Vermonters broke into it some three… quarters of a century ago; and made meadows of its bottoms and sugar… camps of its fringing woods; I suppose the red Indian lived here in his usual discomfort; and was as restless as his successors; the summer boarders。  But the streams were full of trout then; and the moose and the elk left their broad tracks on the sands of the river。 But of the Indian there is no trace。  There is a mound in the valley; much like a Tel in the country of Bashan beyond the Jordan; that may have been built by some pre…historic race; and may contain treasure and the seated figure of a preserved chieftain on his slow way to Paradise。  What the gentle and accomplished race of the Mound… Builders should want in this savage region where the frost kills the early potatoes and stunts the scanty oats; I do not know。  I have seen no trace of them; except this Tel; and one other slight relic; which came to light last summer; and is not enough to found the history of a race upon。
  Some workingmen; getting stone from the hillside on one of the little plateaus; for a house…cellar; discovered; partly embedded; a piece of pottery unique in this region。  With the unerring instinct of workmen in regard to antiquities; they thrust a crowbar through it; and broke the bowl into several pieces。  The joint fragments; however; give us the form of the dish。  It is a bowl about nine inches high and eight inches across; made of red clay; baked but not glazed。  The bottom is round; the top flares into four comers; and the rim is rudely but rather artistically ornamented with criss…cross scratches made when the clay was soft。  The vessel is made of clay not found about here; and it is one that the Indians formerly living here could not form。 Was it brought here by roving Indians who may have made an expedition to the Ohio; was it passed from tribe to tribe; or did it belong to a race that occupied the country before the Indian; and who have left traces of their civilized skill in pottery scattered all over the continent ?
  If I could establish the fact that this jar was made by a prehistoric race; we should then have four generations in this lovely valley:…the amiable Pre…Historic people (whose gentle descendants were probably killed by the Spaniards in the West Indies); the Red Indians; the Keene Flaters (from Vermont); and the Summer Boarders; to say nothing of the various races of animals who have been unable to live here since the advent of the Summer Boarders; the valley being not productive enough to sustain both。  This last incursion has been more destructive to the noble serenity of the forest than all the preceding。
  But we are wandering from Hunter's Pass。  The western walls of it are formed by the precipices of Nipple Top; not so striking nor so bare as the great slides of Dix which glisten in the sun like silver; but rough and repelling; and consequently alluring。  I have a great desire to scale them。  I have always had an unreasonable wish to explore the rough summit of this crabbed hill; which is too broken and jagged for pleasure and not high enough for glory。  This desire was stimulated by a legend related by our guide that night in the Mud Pond cabin。  The guide had never been through the pass before; although he was familiar with the region; and had ascended Nipple Top in the winter in pursuit of the sable。  The story he told doesn't amount to much; none of the guides' stories do; faithfully reported; and I should not have believed it if I had not had a good deal of leisure on my hands at the time; and been of a willing mind; and I may say in rather of a starved condition as to any romance in this region。
  The guide said thenand he mentioned it casually; in reply to our inquiries about ascending