第 45 节
作者:朝令夕改      更新:2021-02-21 11:23      字数:9321
  of boiling water like greens。 If the potatoes are tolerably large; it will be necessary; as soon as they begin to boil; to throw in some cold water; and occasionally to repeat it; till the potatoes are boiled to the heart; (which will take from half an hour to an hour and a quarter; according to their size;) they will otherwise crack; and burst to pieces on the outside; whilst the inside will be nearly in a crude state; and consequently very unpalatable and unwholesome。During the boiling; throwing in a little salt occasionally is found a great improvement; and it is certain that the slower they are cooked the better。When boiled; pour off the water; and evaporate the moisture; by replacing the vessel in which the potatoes were boiled once more over the fire。 This makes them remarkably dry and mealy。They should be brought to the table with the skins on; and eat with a little salt; as bread。Nothing but experience can satisfy any one how superior the potatoe is; thus prepared; if the sort is good and meally。 Some prefer roasting potatoes; but the mode above detailed; extracted partly from the interesting paper of Samuel Hayes; Esquire; of Avondale; in Ireland; (Report on the Culture of Potatoes; P。 103。); and partly from the Lancashire reprinted Report (p。63。); and other communications to the Board; is at least equal; if not superior。Some have tried boiling potatoes in steam; thinking by that process that they must imbibe less water。But immersion in water causes the discharge of a certain substance; which the steam alone is incapable of doing; and by retaining which; the flavour of the root is injured; and they afterwards become dry by being put over the fire a second time without water。With a little butter; or milk; of fish; they make an excellent mess。
  These directions are so clear; that it is hardly possible to mistake them; and those who follow them exactly will find their potatoes surprisingly improved; and will be convinced that the manner of boiling them is a matter of much greater importance than has hitherto been imagined。
  Were this method of boiling potatoes generally known in countries where these vegetables are only beginning to make their way into common use; as in Bavaria; for instance;I have no doubt but it would contribute more than any thing else to their speedy introduction。
  The following account of an experiment; lately made in one of the parishes of this metropolis (London); was communicated to me by a friend; who has permitted me to publish it。It will serve to show;what I am most anxious to make appear; that the prejudices of the Poor in regard to their Food ARE NOT UNCONQUERABLE                            February 25th; 1796。
  The parish officers of Saint Olaves; Southwark; desirous of contributing their aid towards lessening the consumption of wheat; resolved on the following succedaneum for their customary suet puddings; which they give to their Poor for dinner one day in the week; which was ordered as follows:
  L。 s。 d。  200 lb。 potatoes boiled; and      skinned and mashed  。。。  。。。  0  8  0  2 gallons of milk  。。。  。。。  。。。  0  2  4  12 lb。 of suet; at 4 1/2     。。。  0  4  6  1 peck of flour    。。。  。。。  。。。  0  4  0  Baking   。。。  。。。  。。。  。。。  。。。  0  1  8                                   …                          Expense   1  0  6                                   … Their ordinary suet pudding had been made thus:
  2 bushels of flour  。。。  。。。  。。。  1 12  0  12 lb。 suet    。。。  。。。  。。。  。。。  0  4  6  Baking   。。。   。。。  。。。  。。。  。。。  0  1  8                                   …                          Expense    1 18  2 Cost of the ingredients for the potatoes suet pudding    。。。   。。。  1  0  6                                   …                        Difference   0 17  8                                   …
  This was the dinner provided for 200 persons; who gave a decided perference to the cheapest of these preparations; and with it to be continued。
  The following baked potatoe…puddings were prepared in the hotel where I lodge; and were tasted by a number of persons; who found them in general very palatable。
  Baked Potatoe…puddings。
  No。 I。
  12 ounces of potatoes; boiled; skinned; and mashed;        1 ounce of suet;        1 ounce (or 1/16 of a pint) of milk; and        1 ounce of Gloucester cheese。        Total 15 ounces;mixed with as much boiling water as was necessary to bring it to a due consistence; and then baked in an earthen pan。
  No。 II。
  12 ounces of mashed potatoes as before;   1 ounces of milk; and   1 ounce of suet; with a sufficient quantity of salt。Mixed up     with boiling water; and baked in a pan。
  No。 III。
  12 ounces of mashed potatoes;   1 ounce of suet;   1 ounce of red herrings pounded fine in a mortar。Mixedbaked;     etc。 as before。
  No。 IV。
  12 ounces of mashed potatoes;   1 ounce of suet; and   1 ounce of hung beef grated fine with a grater。Mixed and baked     as before。
  These puddings when baked weighed from 11 to 12 ounces each。 They were all liked by those who tasted them; but No I and No 3 seemed to meet with the most general approbation。
  Receipt for a very cheap Potatoe…dumplin。
  Take any quantity of potatoes; half boiled;skin or pare them; and grate them to a coarse powder with a grater;mix them up with a very small quantity of flour; 1/16; for instance; of the weight of the potatoes; or even less;add a seasoning of salt; pepper; and sweet herbs;mix up the whole with boiling water to a proper consistency; and form the mass into dumplins of the size of a large apple。 Roll the dumplins; when formed; in flour; to prevent the water from penetrating them; and put them into boiling water; and boil them till they rise to the surface of the water; and swim; when they will be found to be sufficiently done。
  These dumplins may be made very savoury by mixing with them a small quantity of grated hung beef; or of pounded red herring。
  Fried bread may likewise be mixed with them; and this without any other addition; except a seasoning of salt; forms an excellent dish。
  Upon the same principles upon which these dumplins are prepared large boiled bag…puddings may be made; and for feeding the Poor in a public establishment; where great numbers are to be fed; puddings; as these is less trouble in preparing them; are always to be preferred to dumplins。
  It would swell this Essay; (which has already exceeded the limits assigned to it;) to the size of a large volume; were I to give receipts for all the good dishes that may be prepared with potatoes。There is however one method of preparing potatoes much in use in many parts of Germany; which appears to me to deserve being particularly mentioned and recommended;it is as follows:
  A Receipt for preparing boiled Potatoes with a Sauce。
  The potatoes being properly boiled; and skinned; are cut into slices; and put into a dish; and a sauce; similar to that commonly used with a fricaseed chicken; is poured over them。
  This makes an excellent and a very wholesome dish; but more calculated; it is true; for the tables of the opulent than for the Poor。Good sauces might however be composed for this dish which would not be expensive。Common milk…porridge; made rather thicker than usual; with wheat flour; and well salted; would not be a bad sauce for it。
  Potatoe Salad。
  A dish in high repute in some parts of Germany; and which deserves to be particularly recommended; is a salad of potatoes。 The potatoes being properly boiled and skinned; are cut into thin slices; and the same sauce which is commonly used for salads of lettuce is poured over them; some mix anchovies with this sauce; which gives it a very agreeable relish; and with potatoes it is remarkably palatable。
  Boiled potatoes cut in slices and fried in butter; or in lard; and seasoned with salt and pepper; is likewise a very palatable and wholesome dish。
  Of Barley。
  I have more than once mentioned the extraordinary nutritive powers of this grain; and the use of it in feeding the Poor cannot be too strongly recommended。It is now beginning to be much used in this country; mixed with wheat flour; for making bread; but is not; I am persuaded; in bread; but in soups; that Barley can be employed to the greatest advantage。It is astonishing how much water a small quantity of Barley…meal will thicken; and change to the consistency of a jelly; and; if my suspicions with regard to the part which water acts in nutrition are founded; this will enable us to account; not only for the nutritive quality of Barley; but also for the same quality in a still higher degree which sago and salope are known to possess。 Sago and Salope thicken; and change to the consistency of a jelly; (and as I suppose; prepare for decomposition;) a greater quantity of water than Barley; and both sago and salope are known to be nutritious in a very extraordinary degree。
  Barley will thicken and change to a jelly much more water than any other grain with which we are acquainted; rice even not excepted;and I have found reason to conclude from the result of innumerable experiments; which in the course of several years have been made under my direction in the public kitchen of the House of Industry