第 1 节
作者:风格1      更新:2021-02-20 15:32      字数:9322
  Travels with a Donkey in the Cevennes
  by Robert Louis Stevenson。
  My Dear Sidney Colvin;
  The journey which this little book is to describe was very
  agreeable and fortunate for me。  After an uncouth beginning; I had
  the best of luck to the end。  But we are all travellers in what
  John Bunyan calls the wilderness of this world … all; too;
  travellers with a donkey:  and the best that we find in our travels
  is an honest friend。  He is a fortunate voyager who finds many。  We
  travel; indeed; to find them。  They are the end and the reward of
  life。  They keep us worthy of ourselves; and when we are alone; we
  are only nearer to the absent。
  Every book is; in an intimate sense; a circular letter to the
  friends of him who writes it。  They alone take his meaning; they
  find private messages; assurances of love; and expressions of
  gratitude; dropped for them in every corner。  The public is but a
  generous patron who defrays the postage。  Yet through the letter is
  directed to all; we have an old and kindly custom of addressing it
  on the outside to one。  Of what shall a man be proud; if he is not
  proud of his friends?  And so; my dear Sidney Colvin; it is with
  pride that I sign myself affectionately yours;
  R。 L。 S。
  VELAY
  Many are the mighty things; and nought is more mighty than man。 。 。
  。 。 He masters by his devices the tenant of the fields。
  SOPHOCLES。
  Who hath loosed the bands of the wild ass?
  JOB。
  THE DONKEY; THE PACK; AND THE PACK…SADDLE
  IN a little place called Le Monastier; in a pleasant highland
  valley fifteen miles from Le Puy; I spent about a month of fine
  days。  Monastier is notable for the making of lace; for
  drunkenness; for freedom of language; and for unparalleled
  political dissension。  There are adherents of each of the four
  French parties … Legitimists; Orleanists; Imperialists; and
  Republicans … in this little mountain…town; and they all hate;
  loathe; decry; and calumniate each other。  Except for business
  purposes; or to give each other the lie in a tavern brawl; they
  have laid aside even the civility of speech。  'Tis a mere mountain
  Poland。  In the midst of this Babylon I found myself a rallying…
  point; every one was anxious to be kind and helpful to the
  stranger。  This was not merely from the natural hospitality of
  mountain people; nor even from the surprise with which I was
  regarded as a man living of his own free will in Le Monastier; when
  he might just as well have lived anywhere else in this big world;
  it arose a good deal from my projected excursion southward through
  the Cevennes。  A traveller of my sort was a thing hitherto unheard
  of in that district。  I was looked upon with contempt; like a man
  who should project a journey to the moon; but yet with a respectful
  interest; like one setting forth for the inclement Pole。  All were
  ready to help in my preparations; a crowd of sympathisers supported
  me at the critical moment of a bargain; not a step was taken but
  was heralded by glasses round and celebrated by a dinner or a
  breakfast。
  It was already hard upon October before I was ready to set forth;
  and at the high altitudes over which my road lay there was no
  Indian summer to be looked for。  I was determined; if not to camp
  out; at least to have the means of camping out in my possession;
  for there is nothing more harassing to an easy mind than the
  necessity of reaching shelter by dusk; and the hospitality of a
  village inn is not always to be reckoned sure by those who trudge
  on foot。  A tent; above all for a solitary traveller; is
  troublesome to pitch; and troublesome to strike again; and even on
  the march it forms a conspicuous feature in your baggage。  A
  sleeping…sack; on the other hand; is always ready … you have only
  to get into it; it serves a double purpose … a bed by night; a
  portmanteau by day; and it does not advertise your intention of
  camping out to every curious passer…by。  This is a huge point。  If
  a camp is not secret; it is but a troubled resting…place; you
  become a public character; the convivial rustic visits your bedside
  after an early supper; and you must sleep with one eye open; and be
  up before the day。  I decided on a sleeping…sack; and after
  repeated visits to Le Puy; and a deal of high living for myself and
  my advisers; a sleeping…sack was designed; constructed; and
  triumphantly brought home。
  This child of my invention was nearly six feet square; exclusive of
  two triangular flaps to serve as a pillow by night and as the top
  and bottom of the sack by day。  I call it 'the sack;' but it was
  never a sack by more than courtesy:  only a sort of long roll or
  sausage; green waterproof cart…cloth without and blue sheep's fur
  within。  It was commodious as a valise; warm and dry for a bed。
  There was luxurious turning room for one; and at a pinch the thing
  might serve for two。  I could bury myself in it up to the neck; for
  my head I trusted to a fur cap; with a hood to fold down over my
  ears and a band to pass under my nose like a respirator; and in
  case of heavy rain I proposed to make myself a little tent; or
  tentlet; with my waterproof coat; three stones; and a bent branch。
  It will readily be conceived that I could not carry this huge
  package on my own; merely human; shoulders。  It remained to choose
  a beast of burden。  Now; a horse is a fine lady among animals;
  flighty; timid; delicate in eating; of tender health; he is too
  valuable and too restive to be left alone; so that you are chained
  to your brute as to a fellow galley…slave; a dangerous road puts
  him out of his wits; in short; he's an uncertain and exacting ally;
  and adds thirty…fold to the troubles of the voyager。  What I
  required was something cheap and small and hardy; and of a stolid
  and peaceful temper; and all these requisites pointed to a donkey。
  There dwelt an old man in Monastier; of rather unsound intellect
  according to some; much followed by street…boys; and known to fame
  as Father Adam。  Father Adam had a cart; and to draw the cart a
  diminutive she…ass; not much bigger than a dog; the colour of a
  mouse; with a kindly eye and a determined under…jaw。  There was
  something neat and high…bred; a quakerish elegance; about the rogue
  that hit my fancy on the spot。  Our first interview was in
  Monastier market…place。  To prove her good temper; one child after
  another was set upon her back to ride; and one after another went
  head over heels into the air; until a want of confidence began to
  reign in youthful bosoms; and the experiment was discontinued from
  a dearth of subjects。  I was already backed by a deputation of my
  friends; but as if this were not enough; all the buyers and sellers
  came round and helped me in the bargain; and the ass and I and
  Father Adam were the centre of a hubbub for near half an hour。  At
  length she passed into my service for the consideration of sixty…
  five francs and a glass of brandy。  The sack had already cost
  eighty francs and two glasses of beer; so that Modestine; as I
  instantly baptized her; was upon all accounts the cheaper article。
  Indeed; that was as it should be; for she was only an appurtenance
  of my mattress; or self…acting bedstead on four castors。
  I had a last interview with Father Adam in a billiard…room at the
  witching hour of dawn; when I administered the brandy。  He
  professed himself greatly touched by the separation; and declared
  he had often bought white bread for the donkey when he had been
  content with black bread for himself; but this; according to the
  best authorities; must have been a flight of fancy。  He had a name
  in the village for brutally misusing the ass; yet it is certain
  that he shed a tear; and the tear made a clean mark down one cheek。
  By the advice of a fallacious local saddler; a leather pad was made
  for me with rings to fasten on my bundle; and I thoughtfully
  completed my kit and arranged my toilette。  By way of armoury and
  utensils; I took a revolver; a little spirit…lamp and pan; a
  lantern and some halfpenny candles; a jack…knife and a large
  leather flask。  The main cargo consisted of two entire changes of
  warm clothing … besides my travelling wear of country velveteen;
  pilot…coat; and knitted spencer … some books; and my railway…rug;
  which; being also in the form of a bag; made me a double castle for
  cold nights。  The permanent larder was represented by cakes of
  chocolate and tins of Bologna sausage。  All this; except what I
  carried about my person; was easily stowed into the sheepskin bag;
  and by good fortune I threw in my empty knapsack; rather for
  convenience of carriage than from any thought that I should want it
  on my journey。  For more immediate needs I took a leg of cold
  mutton; a bottle of Beaujolais; an empty bottle to carry milk; an
  eg