第 21 节
作者:开了      更新:2021-02-19 01:06      字数:9322
  takes his place in the little pavilion where for so many years
  Eugenie used to sit in state; and which has sheltered so many
  crowned heads under its simple roof。  Faure's arrival is the signal
  for the racing to begin; from that moment the interest goes on
  increasing until the great 〃event。〃  Then in an instant the vast
  throng of human beings breaks up and flows homeward across the
  Bois; filling the big Place around the Arc de Triomphe; rolling
  down the Champs Elysees; in twenty parallel lines of carriages。
  The sidewalks are filled with a laughing; singing; uproarious crowd
  that quickly invades every restaurant; CAFE; or chop…house until
  their little tables overflow on to the grass and side…walks; and
  even into the middle of the streets。  Later in the evening the
  open…air concerts and theatres are packed; and every little square
  organizes its impromptu ball; the musicians mounted on tables; and
  the crowd dancing gayly on the wooden pavement until daybreak。
  The next day; Paris becomes from a fashionable point of view;
  〃impossible。〃  If you walk through the richer quarters; you will
  see only long lines of closed windows。  The approaches to the
  railway stations are blocked with cabs piled with trunks and
  bicycles。  The 〃great world〃 is fleeing to the seashore or its
  CHATEAUX; and Paris will know it no more until January; for the
  French are a country…loving race; and since there has been no
  court; the aristocracy pass longer and longer periods on their own
  estates each year; partly from choice and largely to show their
  disdain for the republic and its entertainments。
  The shady drives in the park; which only a day or two ago were so
  brilliant with smart traps and spring toilets; are become a cool
  wilderness; where will meet; perhaps; a few maiden ladies
  exercising fat dogs; uninterrupted except by the watering…cart or
  by a few stray tourists in cabs。  Now comes a delightful time for
  the real amateur of Paris and the country around; which is full of
  charming corners where one can dine at quiet little restaurants;
  overhanging the water or buried among trees。  You are sure of
  getting the best of attention from the waiters; and the dishes you
  order receive all the cook's attention。  Of an evening the Bois is
  alive with a myriad of bicycles; their lights twinkling among the
  trees like many…colored fire…flies。  To any one who knows how to
  live there; Paris is at its best in the last half of June and July。
  Nevertheless; in a couple of days there will not be an American in
  Paris; London being the objective point; for we love to be 〃in at
  the death;〃 and a coronation; a musical festival; or a big race is
  sure to attract all our floating population。
  The Americans who have the hardest time in Paris are those who try
  to 〃run with the deer and hunt with the hounds;〃 as the French
  proverb has it; who would fain serve God and Mammon。  As anything
  especially amusing is sure to take place on Sunday in this wicked
  capital; our friends go through agonies of indecision; their
  consciences pulling one way; their desire to amuse themselves the
  other。  Some find a middle course; it seems; for yesterday this
  conversation was overheard on the steps of the American Church:
  FIRST AMERICAN LADY: 〃Are you going to stop for the sermon?〃
  SECOND AMERICAN LADY: 〃I am so sorry I can't; but the races begin
  at one!〃
  CHAPTER 20 … 〃The Treadmill。〃
  A HALF…HUMOROUS; half…pathetic epistle has been sent to me by a
  woman; who explains in it her particular perplexity。  Such letters
  are the windfalls of our profession!  For what is more attractive
  than to have a woman take you for her lay confessor; to whom she
  comes for advice in trouble? opening her innocent heart for your
  inspection!
  My correspondent complains that her days are not sufficiently long;
  nor is her strength great enough; for the thousand and one duties
  and obligations imposed upon her。  〃If;〃 she says; 〃a woman has
  friends and a small place in the world … and who has not in these
  days? … she must golf or 'bike' or skate a bit; of a morning; then
  she is apt to lunch out; or have a friend or two in; to that meal。
  After luncheon there is sure to be a 'class' of some kind that she
  has foolishly joined; or a charity meeting; matinee; or reception;
  but above all; there are her 'duty' calls。  She must be home at
  five to make tea; that she has promised her men friends; and they
  will not leave until it is time for her to dress for dinner; 'out'
  or at home; with often the opera; a supper; or a ball to follow。
  It is quite impossible;〃 she adds; 〃under these circumstances to
  apply one's self to anything serious; to read a book or even open a
  periodical。  The most one can accomplish is a glance at a paper。〃
  Indeed; it would require an exceptional constitution to carry out
  the above programme; not to mention the attention that a woman must
  (however reluctantly) give to her house and her family。  Where are
  the quiet hours to be found for self…culture; the perusal of a
  favorite author; or; perhaps; a little timid 〃writing〃 on her own
  account?  Nor does this treadmill round fill a few months only of
  her life。  With slight variations of scene and costume; it
  continues through the year。
  A painter; I know; was fortunate enough to receive; a year or two
  ago; the commission to paint a well…known beauty。  He was delighted
  with the idea and convinced that he could make her portrait the
  best work of his life; one that would be the stepping…stone to fame
  and fortune。  This was in the spring。  He was naturally burning to
  begin at once; but found to his dismay that the lady was just about
  starting for Europe。  So he waited; and at her suggestion installed
  himself a couple of months later at the seaside city where she had
  a cottage。  No one could be more charming than she was; inviting
  him to dine and drive daily; but when he broached the subject of
  〃sitting;〃 was 〃too busy just that day。〃  Later in the autumn she
  would be quite at his disposal。  In the autumn; however; she was
  visiting; never ten days in the same place。  Early winter found her
  〃getting her house in order;〃 a mysterious rite apparently attended
  with vast worry and fatigue。  With cooling enthusiasm; the painter
  called and coaxed and waited。  November brought the opera and the
  full swing of a New York season。  So far she has given him half a
  dozen sittings; squeezed in between a luncheon; which made her
  〃unavoidably late;〃 for which she is charmingly 〃sorry;〃 and a
  reception that she was forced to attend; although 〃it breaks my
  heart to leave just as you are beginning to work so well; but I
  really must; or the tiresome old cat who is giving the tea will be
  saying all sorts of unpleasant things about me。〃  So she flits off;
  leaving the poor; disillusioned painter before his canvas; knowing
  now that his dream is over; that in a month or two his pretty
  sitter will be off again to New Orleans for the carnival; or
  abroad; and that his weary round of waiting will recommence。  He
  will be fortunate if some day it does not float back to him; in the
  mysterious way disagreeable things do come to one; that she has
  been heard to say; 〃I fear dear Mr。 Palette is not very clever; for
  I have been sitting to him for over a year; and he has really done
  nothing yet。〃
  He has been simply the victim of a state of affairs that neither of
  them were strong enough to break through。  It never entered into
  Beauty's head that she could lead a life different from her
  friends。  She was honestly anxious to have a successful portrait of
  herself; but the sacrifice of any of her habits was more than she
  could make。
  Who among my readers (and I am tempted to believe they are all more
  sensible than the above young woman) has not; during a summer
  passed with agreeable friends; made a thousand pleasant little
  plans with them for the ensuing winter; … the books they were to
  read at the same time; the 〃exhibitions〃 they were to see; the
  visits to our wonderful collections in the Metropolitan Museum or
  private galleries; cosy little dinners; etc。?  And who has not
  found; as the winter slips away; that few of these charming plans
  have been carried out?  He and his friends have unconsciously
  fallen back into their ruts of former years; and the pleasant
  things projected have been brushed aside by that strongest of
  tyrants; habit。
  I once asked a very great lady; whose gracious manner was never
  disturbed; who floated through the endless complications of her
  life with smiling serenity; how she achieved this Olympian calm。
  She was good enough to explain。  〃I make a list of what I want to
  do each day。  Then; as I find my day passing; or I get behind; or
  tired; I throw over every other engagement。  I could have done them
  all with hu