the　managers　that　I　was　both　morally　and　mentally　incapable　of　this；
  that　they　might　have　explained　and　demonstrated　the　properties　and
  functions　of　their　most　recondite　machinery；　and　upon　examination
  afterwards　found　me　guiltless　of　having　anything　but　a　few　verses　of
  Heine　or　Tennyson　or　Longfellow　in　my　head。　　So　I　had　to　suffer　in
  several　places　from　their　unjust　anxieties；　and　from　my　own　weariness　of
  their　ingenious　engines；　or　else　endure　the　pangs　of　a　bad　conscience
  from　ignoring　them。　　As　long　as　I　was　in　Canada　I　was　happy；　for　there
  was　no　industry　in　Canada　that　I　saw；　except　that　of　the　peasant　girls；
  in　their　Evangeline　hats　and　kirtles；　tossing　the　hay　in　the　way…side
  fields；　but　when　I　reached　Portland　my　troubles　began。　　I　went　with　that
  young　minister　of　whom　I　have　spoken　to　a　large　foundry；　where　they　were
  casting　some　sort　of　ironmongery；　and　inspected　the　process　from　a
  distance　beyond　any　chance　spurt　of　the　molten　metal；　and　came　away　sadly
  uncertain　of　putting　the　rather　fine　spectacle　to　any　practical　use。
  A　manufactory　where　they　did　something　with　coal…oil　（which　I　now　heard
  for　the　first　time　called　kerosene）　refused　itself　to　me；　and　I　said　to
  myself　that　probably　all　the　other　industries　of　Portland　were　as
  reserved；　and　I　would　not　seek　to　explore　them；　but　when　I　got　to　Salem；
  my　conscience　stirred　again。　　If　I　knew　that　there　were　shoe…shops　in
  Salem；　ought　not　I　to　go　and　inspect　their　processes？　　This　was　a
  question　which　would　not　answer　itself　to　my　satisfaction；　and　I　had　no
  peace　till　I　learned　that　I　could　see　shoemaking　much　better　at　Lynn；　and
  that　Lynn　was　such　a　little　way　from　Boston　that　I　could　readily　run　up
  there；　if　I　did　not　wish　to　examine　the　shoe　machinery　at　once。
  I　promised　myself　that　I　would　run　up　from　Boston；　but　in　order　to　do
  this　I　must　first　go　to　Boston。
  VII。
  I　am　supposing　still　that　I　saw　Salem　before　I　saw　Boston；　but　however
  the　fact　may　be；　I　am　sure　that　I　decided　it　would　be　better　to　see
  shoemaking　in　Lynn；　where　I　really　did　see　it；　thirty　years　later。　　For
  the　purposes　of　the　present　visit；　I　contented　myself　with　looking　at　a
  machine　in　Haverhill；　which　chewed　a　shoe　sole　full　of　pegs；　and　dropped
  it　out　of　its　iron　jaws　with　an　indifference　as　great　as　my　own；　and
  probably　as　little　sense　of　how　it　had　done　its　work。　　I　may　be　unjust　to
  that　machine；　Heaven　knows　I　would　not　wrong　it；　and　I　must　confess　that
  my　head　had　no　room　in　it　for　the　conception　of　any　machinery　but　the
  mythological；　which　also　I　despised；　in　my　revulsion　from　the　eighteenth…
  century　poets　to　those　of　my　own　day。
  I　cannot　quite　make　out　after　the　lapse　of　so　many　years　just　how　or　when
  I　got　to　Haverhill；　or　whether　it　was　before　or　after　I　had　been　in
  Salem。　　There　is　an　apparitional　quality　in　my　presences；　at　this　point
  or　that；　in　the　dim　past；　but　I　hope　that；　for　the　credit　of　their　order；
  ghosts　are　not　commonly　taken　with　such　trivial　things　as　I　was。　　For
  instance；　in　Haverhill　I　was　much　interested　by　the　sight　of　a　young　man；
  coming　gayly　down　the　steps　of　the　hotel　where　I　lodged；　in　peg…top
  trousers　so　much　more　peg　top　than　my　own　that　I　seemed　to　be　wearing
  mere　spring…bottoms　in　comparison；　and　in　a　day　when　every　one　who
  respected　himself　had　a　necktie　as　narrow　as　he　could　get；　this　youth　had
  one　no　wider　than　a　shoestring；　and　red　at　that；　while　mine　measured
  almost　an　inch；　and　was　black。　　To　be　sure；　he　was　one　of　a　band　of　negro
  minstrels；　who　were　to　give　a　concert　that　night；　and　he　had　a　light　to
  excel　in　fashion。
  I　will　suppose；　for　convenience'　sake；　that　I　visited　Haverhill；　too；
  before　I　reached　Boston：　somehow　that　shoe…pegging　machine　must　come　in；
  and　it　may　as　well　come　in　here。　　When　I　actually　found　myself　in　Boston；
  there　were　perhaps　industries　which　it　would　have　been　well　for　me　to
  celebrate；　but　I　either　made　believe　there　were　none；　or　else　I　honestly
  forgot　all　about　them。　　In　either　case　I　released　myself　altogether　to
  the　literary　and　historical　associations　of　the　place。　　I　need　not　say
  that　I　gave　myself　first　to　the　first；　and　it　rather　surprised　me　to　find
  that　the　literary　associations　of　Boston　referred　so　largely　to
  Cambridge。　　I　did　not　know　much　about　Cambridge；　except　that　it　was　the
  seat　of　the　university　where　Lowell　was；　and　Longfellow　had　been；
  professor；　and　somehow　I　had　not　realized　it　as　the　home　of　these　poets。
  That　was　rather　stupid　of　me；　but　it　is　best　to　own　the　truth；　and
  afterward　I　came　to　know　the　place　so　well　that　I　may　safely　confess　my
  earlier　ignorance。
  I　had　stopped　in　Boston　at　the　Tremont　House；　which　was　still　one　of　the
  first　hostelries　of　the　country；　and　I　must　have　inquired　my　way　to
  Cambridge　there；　but　I　was　sceptical　of　the　direction　the　Cambridge
  horse…car　took　when　I　found　it；　and　I　hinted　to　the　driver　my　anxieties
  as　to　why　he　should　be　starting　east　when　I　had　been　told　that　Cambridge
  was　west　of　Boston。　　He　reassured　me　in　the　laconic　and　sarcastic　manner
  of　his　kind；　and　we　really　reached　Cambridge　by　the　route　he　had　taken。
  The　beautiful　elms　that　shaded　great　part　of　the　way　massed　themselves　in
  the　〃groves　of　academe〃　at　the　Square；　and　showed　pleasant　glimpses　of
  〃Old　Harvard's　scholar　factories　red；〃　then　far　fewer　than　now。　　It　must
  have　been　in　vacation；　for　I　met　no　one　as　I　wandered　through　the　college
  yard；　trying　to　make　up　my　mind　as　to　how　I　should　learn　where　Lowell
  lived；　for　it　was　he　whom　I　had　come　to　find。　　He　had　not　only　taken　the
  poems　I　sent　him；　but　he　had　printed　two　of　them　in　a　single　number　of
  the　Atlantic；　and　had　even　written　me　a　little　note　about　them；　which　I
  wore　next　my　heart　in　my　breast　pocket　till　I　almost　wore　it　out；　and　so
  I　thought　I　might　fitly　report　myself　to　him。　　But　I　have　always　been
  helpless　in　finding　my　way；　and　I　was　still　depressed　by　my　failure　to
  convince　the　horse…car　driver　that　he　had　taken　the　wrong　road。　　I　let
  several　people　go　by　without　questioning　them；　and　those　I　did　ask
  abashed　me　farther　by　not　knowing　what　I　wanted　to　know。　　When　I　had
  remitted　my　search　for　the　moment；　an　ancient　man；　with　an　open　mouth　and
  an　inquiring　eye；　whom　I　never　afterwards　made　out　in　Cambridge；
  addressed　me　with　a　hospitable　offer　to　show　me　the　Washington　Elm。
  I　thought　this　would　give　me　time　to　embolden　myself　for　the　meeting　with
  the　editor　of　the　Atlantic　if　I　should　ever　find　him；　and　I　went　with
  that　kind　old　man；　who　when　he　had　shown　me　the　tree；　and　the　spot　where
  Washington　stood　when　he　took　command　of　the　Continental　forces；　said
  that　he　had　a　branch　of　it；　and　that　if　I　would　come　to　his　house　with
  him　he　would　give　me　a　piece。　　In　the　end；　I　meant　merely　to　flatter　him
  into　telling　me　where　I　could　find　Lowell；　but　I　dissembled　my　purpose
  and　pretended　a　passion　for　a　piece　of　the　historic　elm；　and　the　old　man
  led　me　not　only　to　his　house　but　his　wood…house；　where　he　sawed　me　off　a
  block　so　generous　that　I　could　not　get　it　into　my　pocket。　　I　feigned　the
  gratitude　which　I　could　see　that　he　expected；　and　then　I　took　courage　to
  put　my　question　to　him。　　Perhaps　that　patriarch　lived　only　in　the　past；
  and　cared　for　history　and　not　literature。　　He　confessed　that　he　could　not
  tell　me　where　to　find　Lowell；　but　he　did　not　forsake　me；　he　set　forth
  with　me　upon　the　street　again；　and　let　no　man　pass　without　asking　him。
  In　the　end　we　met　one　who　was　able　to　say　where　Mr。　Lowell　was；　and　I
  found　him　at　last　in　a　little　study　at　the　rear　of　a　pleasant；
  old…fashioned　house　near　the　Delta。
  Lowell　was　not　then　at　the　height　of　his　fame；　he　had　just　reached　this
  thirty　years　after；　when　he　died；　but　I　doubt　if　he　was　ever　after　a
  greater　power　in　his　own　country；　or　more　completely　embodied　the
  literary　aspiration　which　would　not　and　could　not　part　itself　from　the
  love　of　freedom　and　the　hope　of　justice。　　For　the　sake　of　these　he　had
  been　willing　to　suffer　the　reproach　which　followed　their　friends　in　the
  earlier　days　of　the　anti…slavery　struggle：　He　had　outlived　the　reproach
  long　before；　but　the　fear　of　his　strength　remained　with　those　who　had
  felt　it；　and　he　had　not　made　himself　more　generally　loved　by　the　'Fable
  for　Critics'　than　by　the　'Biglow　Papers'；　probably。　　But　in　the　'Vision
  of　Sir　Launfal'　and　the　'Legend　of　Brittany'　he　had　won　a　liking　if　not　a
  listening　far　wider　than　his　humor　and　his　wit　had　got　him；　and　in　his
  lectures　on　the　English　poets；　given　not　many　years　before　he　came　to　the
  charge　of　the　Atlantic；　he　had　proved　himself　easily　the　wisest　and
  finest　critic　in　our　language。　　He　was　already；　more　than　any　American
  poet；
  〃Dowered　with　the　hate　of　hate；　the　scorn　of　scorn；
  The　love　of　love；〃
  and　he　held　a　place　in　the　public　sense　which　no　other　author　among　us
  has　held。　　I　had　myself　never　been　a　great　reader　of　his　poetry；　when　I
  met　him；　though　when　I　was　a　boy　of　ten　years　I　had　heard　my　father
  repeat　passages　from　the　Biglow　Papers　against　war　and　slavery　and　the
  war　for　slavery　upon　Mexico；　and　later　I　had　read　those　criticisms　of
  English　poetry；　and　I　knew　Sir　Launfal　must　be　Lowell　in　some　sort；　but
  my　love　for　him　as　a　p