第 6 节
作者:莫莫言      更新:2021-02-18 23:42      字数:9322
  these   buildings   were   new   and   undoubtedly   commonplace   enough   at   the
  date    of   Washington's      visit;  time   and    association    have    given    them    a
  quaintness      and    a  significance     which     now    make     their  architecture     a
  question of secondary importance。
  One   might   spend   a   fortnight   in   Portsmouth   exploring   the   nooks   and
  corners over which history has thrown a charm; and by no means exhaust
  the list。 I cannot do more than attempt to describeand that very brieflya
  few   of   the   typical   old   houses。   On   this   same   Pleasant   Street   there   are
  several which we must leave unnoted; with their spacious halls and carven
  staircases;   their   antiquated   furniture   and   old   silver   tankards   and   choice
  Copleys。 Numerous examples of this artist's best manner are to be found
  here。 To live in Portsmouth without possessing a family portrait done by
  Copley   is   like   living   in   Boston   without   having   an   ancestor   in   the   old
  Granary Burying…Ground。 You can exist; but you cannot be said to flourish。
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  To make this statement smooth; I will remark that every one in Portsmouth
  has a Copleyor would have if a fair division were made。
  In the better sections of the town the houses are kept in such excellent
  repair; and have so smart an appearance with their bright green blinds and
  freshly     painted    woodwork;that       you    are   likely   to  pass   many     an   old
  landmark without suspecting it。 Whenever you see a house with a gambrel
  roof; you may be almost positive that the house is at least a hundred years
  old; for the gambrel roof went out of fashion after the Revolution。
  On   the   corner   of   Daniel   and   Chapel   streets   stands   the   oldest   brick
  building in Portsmouththe Warner House。 It was built in 1718 by Captain
  Archibald   Macpheadris;   a   Scotchman;   as   his   name   indicates;   a   wealthy
  merchant; and a member of the King's Council。 He was the chief projector
  of    one    of  the   earliest   iron…works      established     in   America。     Captain
  Macpheadris   married   Sarah   Wentworth;   one   of   the   sixteen   children   of
  Governor   John   Wentworth;   and   died   in   1729;   leaving   a   daughter;   Mary;
  whose portrait; with that of her mother; painted by the ubiquitous Copley;
  still hangs in the parlor of this house; which is not known by the name of
  Captain Macpheadris; but by that of his son…in…law; Hon。 Jonathan Warner;
  a member of the King's Council until the revolt of the colonies。 〃We well
  recollect Mr。 Warner;〃 says Mr。 Brewster; writing in 1858; 〃as one of the
  last of the cocked hats。 As in a vision of early childhood he is still before
  us; in all the dignity of the aristocratic crown officers。 That broad…backed;
  long…skirted      brown    coat;   those   small…clothes     and   silk  stockings;    those
  silver buckles; and that canewe see them still; although the life that filled
  and moved them ceased half a century ago。〃
  The    Warner     House;    a  three…story    building     with   gambrel     roof  and
  luthern windows; is as fine and substantial an exponent of the architecture
  of the period   as   you   are  likely  to   meet   with   anywhere  in   New  England。
  The eighteen…inch walls are of brick brought from Holland; as were also
  many   of   the   materials   used   in   the   buildingthe   hearth…stones;   tiles;   etc。
  Hewn…stone underpinnings were seldom adopted in those days; the brick…
  work rests directly upon the solid walls of the cellar。 The interior is rich in
  paneling      and   wood     carvings     about    the  mantel…shelves;       the   deep…set
  windows; and along the cornices。 The halls are wide and long; after a by…
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  gone   fashion;   with   handsome   staircases;   set   at   an   easy   angle;   and   not
  standing nearly upright; like those ladders by which one reaches the upper
  chambers   of   a   modern   house。   The   principal   rooms   are   paneled   to   the
  ceiling; and have large open chimney…places; adorned with the quaintest of
  Dutch files。   In one   of the   parlors of   the Warner   House there is a   choice
  store   of   family   relicschina;   silver…plate;   costumes;   old   clocks;   and   the
  like。 There   are  some   interesting   paintings;   toonot   by  Copley  this   time。
  On   a    broad   space    each   side    of   the  hall   windows;     at   the  head   of  the
  staircase; are pictures of two Indians; life size。 They are probably portraits
  of   some   of   the   numerous   chiefs   with   whom   Captain   Macphaedris   had
  dealings;   for   the   captain   was   engaged   in   the   fur   as   well   as   in   the   iron
  business。 Some enormous elk antlers; presented to Macpheadris by his red
  friends; are hanging in the lower hall。
  By mere chance; thirty or forty years ago; some long…hidden paintings
  on the walls of this lower hall were brought to light。 In repairing the front
  entry it became necessary to remove the paper; of which four or five layers
  had accumulated。 A one place; where several coats had peeled off cleanly;
  a   horse's   hoof   was   observed   by  a   little girl   of   the   family。 The   workman
  then began removing the paper carefully; first the legs; then the body of a
  horse     with    a  rider    were    revealed;     and   the   astonished      paper…hanger
  presently stood before a life…size representation of Governor Phipps on his
  charger。     The    workman      called   other    persons    to  his   assistance;    and   the
  remaining portions of the wall were speedily stripped; laying bare four or
  five hundred square feet covered with sketches in color; landscapes; views
  of    unknown      cities;  Biblical    scenes;    and    modern     figure…pieces;     among
  which was a lady at a spinning…wheel。 Until then no person in the land of
  the living had had any knowledge of those hidden pictures。 An old dame
  of eighty; who had visited at the house intimately ever since her childhood;
  all   but   refused    to   believe    her   spectacles    (though     Supply     Ham     made
  them(1。)) when brought face to face with the frescoes。 (1。 In the early part
  of this century; Supply Ham was the leading optician and watchmaker of
  Portsmouth。)
  The place is rich in bricabrac; but there is nothing more curious that
  these incongruous printings; clearly the work of a practiced hand。 Even the
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  outside of the old edifice is not without its interest for an antiquarian。 The
  lightening…rod which protects the Warner House to…day was put up under
  Benjamin   Franklin's   own   supervision   in   1762such   at   all   events   is   the
  credited   traditionand       is   supposed   to   be   the   first   rod   put   up   in  New
  Hampshire。         A   lightening…rod       〃personally      conducted〃        by   Benjamin
  Franklin   ought   to   be   an   attractive   object   to   even   the   least   susceptible
  electricity。 The Warner House has another imperative claim on the good…
  will of the visitorit is not positively known that George Washington ever
  slept there。
  The same assertion cannot be made on connection with the old yellow
  barracks   situated   in   the   southwest   corner   of   Court   and Atkinson   streets。
  Famous   old houses seem  to   have   an   intuitive  perception of   the value  of
  corner lots。 If it is a possible thing; they always set themselves down on
  the  most desirable spots。  It is   beyond   a  doubt   that Washington slept   not
  only one night; but several nights; under this roof; for this was a celebrated
  tavern     previous      and   subsequent       to   the   War    of   Independence;        and
  Washington   made   it   his   headquarters   during   his   visit   to   Portsmouth   in
  1797。 When I was a boy I knew an old ladynot one of the preposterous
  old ladies in the newspapers; who have all their faculties unimpaired; but a
  real old lady; whose ninety…nine years were beginning to tell on herwho
  had   known   Washington   very   well。   She   was   a   girl   in   her   teens   when   he
  came   to   Portsmouth。   The   President   was   the   staple   of   her   conversation
  during the last ten years of her life; which she passed in the Stavers House;
  bedridden; and I think those ten years were in a manner rendered short and
  pleasant to the old gentlewoman by the memory of a compliment to her
  complexion w