第 2 节
作者:莫莫言      更新:2021-02-18 23:42      字数:9322
  consciously or unconsciously; sowed a seed from which a city has sprung。
  The     town    of   Portsmouth      stretches    along    the   south   bank    of   the
  Piscataqua;   about   two   miles   from   the   sea   as   the   crow   fliesthree   miles
  following      the   serpentine     course    of  the   river。   The     stream     broadens
  suddenly at this point; and at flood tide; lying without a ripple in a basin
  formed by the interlocked islands and the mainland; it looks more like an
  island lake than a river。 To the unaccustomed eye there is no visible outlet。
  Standing on one of the wharves at the foot of State Street or Court Street; a
  stranger would at first scarcely suspect the contiguity of the ocean。 A little
  observation; however; would show him that he was in a seaport。                     The rich
  red   rust   on   the   gables   and   roofs   of   ancient   buildings   looking   seaward
  would tell him that。        There is a fitful saline flavor in the air; and if while
  he gazed a dense white fog should come rolling in; like a line of phantom
  breakers; he would no longer have any doubts。                  It is of course the oldest
  part of the town that skirts the river; though few of the notable houses that
  remain      are   to  be    found    there。   Like    all  New     England      settlements;
  Portsmouth       was    built  of   wood;    and    has   been   subjected     to  extensive
  conflagrations。       You    rarely   come    across    a  brick    building    that   is  not
  shockingly modern。           The first house of the kind was erected by Richard
  Wibird towards the close of the seventeenth century。
  Though   many   of   the   old   landmarks   have   been   swept   away   by   the
  fateful hand of time and fire; the town impresses you as a very old town;
  especially as you saunter along the streets down by the river。 The worm…
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  eaten   wharves;   some   of   them   covered   by   a   sparse;   unhealthy   beard   of
  grass;   and   the   weather…stained;   unoccupied   warehouses   are   sufficient   to
  satisfy a moderate appetite for antiquity。             These deserted piers and these
  long rows of empty barracks; with their sarcastic cranes projecting   from
  the   eaves;   rather   puzzle   the   stranger。   Why   this   great   preparation   for   a
  commercial   activity   that   does   not   exist;   and   evidently   had   not   for   years
  existed? There are no ships lying at the pier…heads; there are no gangs of
  stevedores   staggering   under   the   heavy   cases   of   merchandise;   here   and
  there is a barge laden down to the bulwarks with coal; and here and there a
  square…rigged   schooner   from   Maine   smothered   with   fragrant   planks   and
  clapboards;      an   imported     citizen   is  fishing   at  the  end   of  the   wharf;    a
  ruminative      freckled     son   of  Drogheda;      in   perfect   sympathy      with    the
  indolent sunshine that seems to be sole proprietor of these crumbling piles
  and ridiculous   warehouses; from  which even the ghost   of prosperity  has
  flown。
  Once upon a time; however; Portsmouth carried on an extensive trade
  with the West Indies; threatening as a maritime port to eclipse both Boston
  and   New York。        At   the   windows   of   these   musty  counting…rooms   which
  overlook the river near Spring Market used to stand portly merchants; in
  knee breeches and silver shoe…buckles and plum…colored coats with ruffles
  at the wrist; waiting for their ships to come up the Narrows; the cries of
  stevedores and the chants of sailors at the windlass used to echo along the
  shore   where   all   is   silence   now。   For   reasons   not   worth   setting   forth;   the
  trade   with   the   Indies   abruptly   closed;   having   ruined   as   well   as   enriched
  many a Portsmouth adventurer。              This explains the empty warehouses and
  the unused wharves。          Portsmouth remains the interesting widow of a once
  very lively commerce。 I fancy that few fortunes are either made or lost in
  Portsmouth nowadays。 Formerly it turned out the best ships; as it did the
  ablest ship captains; in the world。           There were families in which the love
  for blue water was in immemorial trait。              The boys were always sailors; 〃a
  grey…headed shipmaster; in each generation; retiring from the quarter…deck
  to the homestead; while a boy of fourteen took the hereditary place before
  the mast; confronting the salt spray and the gale; which had blasted against
  his sire and   grandsire。〃 (1。 Hawthorne in his introduction   to The   Scarlet
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  Letter。)     With   thousands   of   miles   of   sea…line   and   a   score   or   two   of   the
  finest   harbors   on   the   globe;   we   have   adroitly   turned   over   our   carrying
  trade to foreign nations。
  In other days; as I have said; a high maritime spirit was characteristic
  of Portsmouth。         The town did a profitable business in the war of 1812;
  sending out a large fleet of the sauciest small craft on record。                  A pleasant
  story   is   told   of   one   of   these   little   privateersthe   Harlequin;   owned   and
  commanded by Captain Elihu Brown。                   The Harlequin one day gave chase
  to a large ship; which did not seem to have much fight aboard; and had got
  it into close quarters; when suddenly the shy stranger threw open her ports;
  and proved to be His Majesty's Ship…of…War Bulwark; seventy…four guns。
  Poor Captain Brown!
  Portsmouth has several large cotton factories and one or two corpulent
  breweries; it is a wealthy old town; with a liking for first mortgage bonds;
  but its warmest lover will not claim for it the distinction of being a great
  mercantile   centre。       The   majority   of   her   young   men   are   forced   to   seek
  other fields to reap; and almost every city in the Union; and many a city
  across the sea; can point to some eminent merchant; lawyer; or what not;
  as   〃a   Portsmouth   boy。〃      Portsmouth   even   furnished   the   late   king   of   the
  Sandwich   Islands;   Kekuanaoa;   with   a   prime   minister;   and   his   nankeen
  Majesty never had a better。 The affection which all these exiles cherish for
  their   birthplace   is   worthy   of   remark。      On   two   occasionsin   1852   and
  1873;     the   two    hundred     and    fiftieth  anniversary      of   the  settlement     of
  Strawberry Bankthe transplanted sons of Portsmouth were seized with an
  impulse   to   return   home。      Simultaneously   and   almost   without   concerted
  action; the lines of pilgrims took up their march from every quarter of the
  globe; and swept down with music and banners on the motherly old town。
  To come back to the wharves。 I do not know of any spot with such a
  fascinating air of dreams and idleness about it as the old wharf at the end
  of Court Street。 The very fact that it was once a noisy; busy place; crowded
  with   sailors   and   soldiersin   the   war   of   1812gives   an   emphasis   to   the
  quiet   that   broods   over     it   to…day。  The   lounger   who       sits   of   a  summer
  afternoon   on   a   rusty   anchor   fluke   in   the   shadow   of   one   of   the   silent
  warehouses;   and   look   on   the   lonely  river   as   it   goes   murmuring   past   the
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  town; cannot be too grateful to the India trade for having taken itself off
  elsewhere。
  What a slumberous; delightful; lazy place it is!              The sunshine seems
  to lie a foot deep on the planks of the dusty wharf; which yields up to the
  warmth a vague perfume of the cargoes of rum; molasses; and spice that
  used to be piled upon it。 The river is as blue as the inside of a harebell。
  The opposite shore; in the strangely shifting magic lights of sky and water;
  stretches along like the silvery coast of fairyland。             Directly opposite you
  is the navy yard; and its neat officers' quarters and workshops and arsenals;
  and its vast   shiphouses; in which the keel of many a   famous frigate has
  been   laid。 Those  monster buildings   on   the  water's   edge;  with their  roofs
  pierced   with   innumerable   little   windows;   which   blink   like   eyes   in   the
  sunlight; and the shiphouses。 On your right lies a cluster of small islands;
  there are a dozen or more in the harboron the most extensive of which
  you see the fading…away remains of some earthworks thrown up in 1812。
  Between      thisTrefethren's     Is