第 21 节
作者:闪啊闪      更新:2023-08-28 11:47      字数:9322
  I wonder if other people would make the same allowances for me!   Like the ladies of Creil; having recited my rosary of toleration; I  look for my indulgence on the spot。
  PRECY AND THE MARIONNETTES
  WE made Precy about sundown。  The plain is rich with tufts of  poplar。  In a wide; luminous curve; the Oise lay under the  hillside。  A faint mist began to rise and confound the different  distances together。  There was not a sound audible but that of the  sheep…bells in some meadows by the river; and the creaking of a  cart down the long road that descends the hill。  The villas in  their gardens; the shops along the street; all seemed to have been  deserted the day before; and I felt inclined to walk discreetly as  one feels in a silent forest。  All of a sudden; we came round a  corner; and there; in a little green round the church; was a bevy  of girls in Parisian costumes playing croquet。  Their laughter; and  the hollow sound of ball and mallet; made a cheery stir in the  neighbourhood; and the look of these slim figures; all corseted and  ribboned; produced an answerable disturbance in our hearts。  We  were within sniff of Paris; it seemed。  And here were females of  our own species playing croquet; just as if Precy had been a place  in real life; instead of a stage in the fairyland of travel。  For;  to be frank; the peasant woman is scarcely to be counted as a woman  at all; and after having passed by such a succession of people in  petticoats digging and hoeing and making dinner; this company of  coquettes under arms made quite a surprising feature in the  landscape; and convinced us at once of being fallible males。
  The inn at Precy is the worst inn in France。  Not even in Scotland  have I found worse fare。  It was kept by a brother and sister;  neither of whom was out of their teens。  The sister; so to speak;  prepared a meal for us; and the brother; who had been tippling;  came in and brought with him a tipsy butcher; to entertain us as we  ate。  We found pieces of loo…warm pork among the salad; and pieces  of unknown yielding substance in the RAGOUT。  The butcher  entertained us with pictures of Parisian life; with which he  professed himself well acquainted; the brother sitting the while on  the edge of the billiard…table; toppling precariously; and sucking  the stump of a cigar。  In the midst of these diversions; bang went  a drum past the house; and a hoarse voice began issuing a  proclamation。  It was a man with marionnettes announcing a  performance for that evening。
  He had set up his caravan and lighted his candles on another part  of the girls' croquet…green; under one of those open sheds which  are so common in France to shelter markets; and he and his wife; by  the time we strolled up there; were trying to keep order with the  audience。
  It was the most absurd contention。  The show…people had set out a  certain number of benches; and all who sat upon them were to pay a  couple of SOUS for the accommodation。  They were always quite full  … a bumper house … as long as nothing was going forward; but let  the show…woman appear with an eye to a collection; and at the first  rattle of her tambourine the audience slipped off the seats; and  stood round on the outside with their hands in their pockets。  It  certainly would have tried an angel's temper。  The showman roared  from the proscenium; he had been all over France; and nowhere;  nowhere; 'not even on the borders of Germany;' had he met with such  misconduct。  Such thieves and rogues and rascals; as he called  them!  And every now and again; the wife issued on another round;  and added her shrill quota to the tirade。  I remarked here; as  elsewhere; how far more copious is the female mind in the material  of insult。  The audience laughed in high good…humour over the man's  declamations; but they bridled and cried aloud under the woman's  pungent sallies。  She picked out the sore points。  She had the  honour of the village at her mercy。  Voices answered her angrily  out of the crowd; and received a smarting retort for their trouble。   A couple of old ladies beside me; who had duly paid for their  seats; waxed very red and indignant; and discoursed to each other  audibly about the impudence of these mountebanks; but as soon as  the show…woman caught a whisper of this; she was down upon them  with a swoop:  if mesdames could persuade their neighbours to act  with common honesty; the mountebanks; she assured them; would be  polite enough:  mesdames had probably had their bowl of soup; and  perhaps a glass of wine that evening; the mountebanks also had a  taste for soup; and did not choose to have their little earnings  stolen from them before their eyes。  Once; things came as far as a  brief personal encounter between the show…man and some lads; in  which the former went down as readily as one of his own  marionnettes to a peal of jeering laughter。
  I was a good deal astonished at this scene; because I am pretty  well acquainted with the ways of French strollers; more or less  artistic; and have always found them singularly pleasing。  Any  stroller must be dear to the right…thinking heart; if it were only  as a living protest against offices and the mercantile spirit; and  as something to remind us that life is not by necessity the kind of  thing we generally make it。  Even a German band; if you see it  leaving town in the early morning for a campaign in country places;  among trees and meadows; has a romantic flavour for the  imagination。  There is nobody; under thirty; so dead but his heart  will stir a little at sight of a gypsies' camp。  'We are not  cotton…spinners all'; or; at least; not all through。  There is some  life in humanity yet:  and youth will now and again find a brave  word to say in dispraise of riches; and throw up a situation to go  strolling with a knapsack。
  An Englishman has always special facilities for intercourse with  French gymnasts; for England is the natural home of gymnasts。  This  or that fellow; in his tights and spangles; is sure to know a word  or two of English; to have drunk English AFF…'N…AFF; and perhaps  performed in an English music…hall。  He is a countryman of mine by  profession。  He leaps; like the Belgian boating men; to the notion  that I must be an athlete myself。
  But the gymnast is not my favourite; he has little or no tincture  of the artist in his composition; his soul is small and pedestrian;  for the most part; since his profession makes no call upon it; and  does not accustom him to high ideas。  But if a man is only so much  of an actor that he can stumble through a farce; he is made free of  a new order of thoughts。  He has something else to think about  beside the money…box。  He has a pride of his own; and; what is of  far more importance; he has an aim before him that he can never  quite attain。  He has gone upon a pilgrimage that will last him his  life long; because there is no end to it short of perfection。  He  will better upon himself a little day by day; or even if he has  given up the attempt; he will always remember that once upon a time  he had conceived this high ideal; that once upon a time he had  fallen in love with a star。  ''Tis better to have loved and lost。'   Although the moon should have nothing to say to Endymion; although  he should settle down with Audrey and feed pigs; do you not think  he would move with a better grace; and cherish higher thoughts to  the end?  The louts he meets at church never had a fancy above  Audrey's snood; but there is a reminiscence in Endymion's heart  that; like a spice; keeps it fresh and haughty。
  To be even one of the outskirters of art; leaves a fine stamp on a  man's countenance。  I remember once dining with a party in the inn  at Chateau Landon。  Most of them were unmistakable bagmen; others  well…to…do peasantry; but there was one young fellow in a blouse;  whose face stood out from among the rest surprisingly。  It looked  more finished; more of the spirit looked out through it; it had a  living; expressive air; and you could see that his eyes took things  in。  My companion and I wondered greatly who and what he could be。   It was fair…time in Chateau Landon; and when we went along to the  booths; we had our question answered; for there was our friend  busily fiddling for the peasants to caper to。  He was a wandering  violinist。
  A troop of strollers once came to the inn where I was staying; in  the department of Seine et Marne。  There was a father and mother;  two daughters; brazen; blowsy hussies; who sang and acted; without  an idea of how to set about either; and a dark young man; like a  tutor; a recalcitrant house…painter; who sang and acted not amiss。   The mother was the genius of the party; so far as genius can be  spoken of with regard to such a pack of incompetent humbugs; and  her husband could not find words to express his admiration for her  comic countryman。  'You should see my old woman;' said he; and  nodded his beery countenance。  One night they performed in the  stable…yard; with flaring lamps … a wretched exhibition; coldly  looked upon by a village audience。  Next night; as soon as the  lamps were lighted; there came a plump of rain; and they had to  sweep away their baggage as fast as possible; and make off to th