第 35 节
作者:生在秋天      更新:2023-05-17 13:24      字数:9322
  the gutters of side… streets。        The German student; conscious of the rapid
  approach of oblivion; uses all his remaining energy to get round the corner;
  where he may collapse without anxiety。               In certain districts he may ring
  bells。    The rent of flats in these localities is lower than in other quarters
  of the town; while the difficulty is further met by each family preparing
  for   itself   a   secret   code   of   bell…ringing   by   means   of   which   it   is   known
  whether the summons is genuine or not。 When visiting such a household
  late   at   night   it   is   well   to   be   acquainted   with   this   code;   or   you   may;   if
  persistent; get a bucket of water thrown over you。
  Also the German student is allowed to put out lights at night; but there
  is   a  prejudice    against    his  putting   out   too   many。    The     larky   German
  student generally keeps count; contenting himself with half a dozen lights
  per   night。   Likewise;   he   may   shout   and   sing   as   he   walks   home;   up   till
  half…past two;   and   at certain   restaurants it is permitted   to him  to   put his
  arm     round     the   Fraulein's     waist。     To     prevent     any    suggestion     of
  unseemliness;       the  waitresses     at  restaurants    frequented    by   students    are
  always carefully selected from among a staid and elderly classy of women;
  by reason of which the German student can enjoy the delights of flirtation
  without fear and without reproach to anyone。
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  They are a law…abiding people; the Germans。
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  CHAPTER X
  Baden from the visitor's point of viewBeauty of the early morning; as
  viewed      from   the   preceding    afternoonDistance;       as  measured     by   the
  compassDitto;       as  measured     by   the  legGeorge     in  account    with   his
  conscienceA       lazy   machineBicycling;       according     to  the  poster:    its
  restfulnessThe poster cyclist:        its costume; its methodThe griffin as a
  household      petA    dog   with   proper    self…  respectThe     horse   that  was
  abused。
  From   Baden;   about   which   it   need   only   be   said   that   it   is   a   pleasure
  resort   singularly   like   other   pleasure   resorts   of   the   same   description;   we
  started bicycling   in earnest。       We planned   a ten   days' tour;  which;  while
  completing the Black Forest; should include a spin down the Donau…Thal;
  which for the twenty miles from Tuttlingen to Sigmaringen is; perhaps; the
  finest valley in Germany; the Danube stream here winding its narrow way
  past   old…   world   unspoilt   villages;   past   ancient   monasteries;   nestling   in
  green pastures; where still the bare…footed and bare…headed friar; his rope
  girdle tight about his loins; shepherds; with crook in hand; his sheep upon
  the hill sides; through rocky woods; between sheer walls of cliff; whose
  every towering crag stands crowned with ruined fortress; church; or castle;
  together with a blick at the Vosges mountains; where half the population is
  bitterly pained if you speak to them in French; the other half being insulted
  when      you    address    them     in   German;     and    the   whole     indignantly
  contemptuous at the first sound of English; a state of things that renders
  conversation with the stranger somewhat nervous work。
  We did not succeed in carrying out our programme in its entirety; for
  the reason that human performance lags ever behind human intention。                     It
  is easy to say and believe at three o'clock in the afternoon that:             〃We will
  rise at five; breakfast lightly at half… past; and start away at six。〃
  〃Then we shall be well on our way before the heat of the day sets in;〃
  remarks one。
  〃This time of the year; the early morning is really the best part of the
  day。    Don't you think so?〃 adds another。
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  〃Oh; undoubtedly。〃
  〃So cool and fresh。〃
  〃And the half…lights are so exquisite。〃
  The first morning one maintains one's vows。               The party assembles at
  half…past five。     It is very silent; individually; somewhat snappy; inclined
  to   grumble   with   its   food;   also   with   most   other   things;   the   atmosphere
  charged   with   compressed   irritability  seeking   its   vent。   In   the   evening   the
  Tempter's voice is heard:
  〃I   think  if   we   got   off   by   half…past   six;   sharp;   that   would  be   time
  enough?〃
  The    voice    of  Virtue    protests;   faintly:    〃It   will  be   breaking     our
  resolution。〃
  The Tempter replies:         〃Resolutions were made for man; not man for
  resolutions。〃      The   devil   can   paraphrase   Scripture   for   his   own   purpose。
  〃Besides; it is disturbing the whole hotel; think of the poor servants。〃
  The voice of Virtue continues; but even feebler:              〃But everybody gets
  up early in these parts。〃
  〃They     would    not   if  they  were    not   obliged   to;  poor    things!   Say
  breakfast at half…past six; punctual; that will be disturbing nobody。〃
  Thus Sin masquerades under the guise of Good; and one sleeps till six;
  explaining to one's conscience; who; however; doesn't believe it; that one
  does   this   because   of   unselfish   consideration   for   others。    I   have   known
  such consideration extend until seven of the clock。
  Likewise; distance measured with a pair of compasses is not precisely
  the same as when measured by the leg。
  〃Ten miles an hour for seven hours; seventy miles。                A nice easy day's
  work。〃
  〃There are some stiff hills to climb?〃
  〃The other side to come down。             Say; eight miles an hour; and call it
  sixty miles。     Gott in Himmel! if we can't average eight miles an hour; we
  had better go in   bath…chairs。〃        It does seem  somewhat impossible to   do
  less; on paper。
  But    at  four  o'clock    in  the  afternoon    the  voice    of  Duty   rings   less
  trumpet…toned:
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  〃Well; I suppose we ought to be getting on。〃
  〃Oh; there's no hurry! don't fuss。        Lovely view from here; isn't it?〃
  〃Very。    Don't forget we are twenty…five miles from St。 Blasien。〃
  〃How far?〃
  〃Twenty…five miles; a little over if anything。〃
  〃Do you mean to say we have only come thirty…five miles?〃
  〃That's all。〃
  〃Nonsense。       I don't believe that map of yours。〃
  〃It is impossible; you know。         We have been riding steadily ever since
  the first thing this morning。〃
  〃No; we haven't。       We didn't get away till eight; to begin with。〃
  〃Quarter to eight。〃
  〃Well; quarter to eight; and every half…dozen miles we have stopped。〃
  〃We have only stopped to look at the view。               It's no good coming to
  see a country; and then not seeing it。〃
  〃And we have had to pull up some stiff hills。〃
  〃Besides; it has been an exceptionally hot day to…day。〃
  〃Well; don't forget St。 Blasien is twenty…five miles off; that's all。〃
  〃Any more hills?〃
  〃Yes; two; up and down。〃
  〃I thought you said it was downhill into St。 Blasien?〃
  〃So   it   is   for   the   last   ten   miles。 We   are   twenty…five   miles   from   St。
  Blasien here。〃
  〃Isn't there anywhere between here and St。 Blasien?               What's that little
  place there on the lake?〃
  〃It   isn't  St。  Blasien;   or   anywhere     near   it。   There's    a   danger    in
  beginning that sort of thing。〃
  〃There's     a   danger    in  overworking       oneself。     One     should    study
  moderation in all things。        Pretty little place; that Titisee; according to the
  map; looks as if there would be good air there。〃
  〃All   right;  I'm   agreeable。    It   was   you   fellows    who   suggested     our
  making for St。 Blasien。〃
  〃Oh; I'm not so keen on St。 Blasien! poky little place; down in a valley。
  This Titisee; I should say; was ever so much nicer。〃
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  〃Quite near; isn't it?〃
  〃Five miles。〃
  General chorus:       〃We'll stop at Titisee。〃
  George made discovery of thi