第 3 节
作者:竹水冷      更新:2022-07-12 16:20      字数:9318
  be certain to see things noteworthy; which the mere naturalist
  would never find; simply because he could never guess that they
  were there to be found。  I do not speak merely of the rare birds
  which may be shot; the curious facts as to the habits of fish which
  may be observed; great as these pleasures are。  I speak of the
  scenery; the weather; the geological formation of the country; its
  vegetation; and the living habits of its denizens。  A sportsman;
  out in all weathers; and often dependent for success on his
  knowledge of 〃what the sky is going to do;〃 has opportunities for
  becoming a meteorologist which no one beside but a sailor
  possesses; and one has often longed for a scientific gamekeeper or
  huntsman; who; by discovering a law for the mysterious and
  seemingly capricious phenomena of 〃scent;〃 might perhaps throw
  light on a hundred dark passages of hygrometry。  The fisherman;
  too; … what an inexhaustible treasury of wonder lies at his feet;
  in the subaqueous world of the commonest mountain burn!  All the
  laws which mould a world are there busy; if he but knew it;
  fattening his trout for him; and making them rise to the fly; by
  strange electric influences; at one hour rather than at another。
  Many a good geognostic lesson; too; both as to the nature of a
  country's rocks; and as to the laws by which strata are deposited;
  may an observing man learn as he wades up the bed of a trout…
  stream; not to mention the strange forms and habits of the tribes
  of water…insects。  Moreover; no good fisherman but knows; to his
  sorrow; that there are plenty of minutes; ay; hours; in each day's
  fishing in which he would be right glad of any employment better
  than trying to
  〃Call spirits from the vasty deep;〃
  who will not
  〃Come when you do call for them。〃
  What to do; then?  You are sitting; perhaps; in your coracle; upon
  some mountain tarn; waiting for a wind; and waiting in vain。
  〃Keine luft an keine seite;
  Todes…stille f乺chterlich;〃
  as G攖he has it …
  〃Und der schiffer sieht bek乵mert
  Glatte fl刢he rings umher。〃
  You paddle to the shore on the side whence the wind ought to come;
  if it had any spirit in it; tie the coracle to a stone; light your
  cigar; lie down on your back upon the grass; grumble; and finally
  fall asleep。  In the meanwhile; probably; the breeze has come on;
  and there has been half…an…hour's lively fishing curl; and you wake
  just in time to see the last ripple of it sneaking off at the other
  side of the lake; leaving all as dead…calm as before。
  Now how much better; instead of falling asleep; to have walked
  quietly round the lake side; and asked of your own brains and of
  Nature the question; 〃How did this lake come here?  What does it
  mean?〃
  It is a hole in the earth。  True; but how was the hole made?  There
  must have been huge forces at work to form such a chasm。  Probably
  the mountain was actually opened from within by an earthquake; and
  when the strata fell together again; the portion at either end of
  the chasm; being perhaps crushed together with greater force;
  remained higher than the centre; and so the water lodged between
  them。  Perhaps it was formed thus。  You will at least agree that
  its formation must have been a grand sight enough; and one during
  which a spectator would have had some difficulty in keeping his
  footing。
  And when you learn that this convulsion probably took plus at the
  bottom of an ocean hundreds of thousands of years ago; you have at
  least a few thoughts over which to ruminate; which will make you at
  once too busy to grumble; and ashamed to grumble。
  Yet; after all; I hardly think the lake was formed in this way; and
  suspect that it may have been dry for ages after it emerged from
  the primeval waves; and Snowdonia was a palm…fringed island in a
  tropic sea。  Let us look the place over more fully。
  You see the lake is nearly circular; on the side where we stand the
  pebbly beach is not six feet above the water; and slopes away
  steeply into the valley behind us; while before us it shelves
  gradually into the lake; forty yards out; as you know; there is not
  ten feet water; and then a steep bank; the edge whereof we and the
  big trout know well; sinks suddenly to unknown depths。  On the
  opposite side; that flat…topped wall of rock towers up shoreless
  into the sky; seven hundred feet perpendicular; the deepest water
  of all we know is at its very foot。  Right and left; two shoulders
  of down slope into the lake。  Now turn round and look down the
  gorge。  Remark that this pebble bank on which we stand reaches some
  fifty yards downward:  you see the loose stones peeping out
  everywhere。  We may fairly suppose that we stand on a dam of loose
  stones; a hundred feet deep。
  But why loose stones? … and if so; what matter? and what wonder?
  There are rocks cropping out everywhere down the hill…side。
  Because if you will take up one of these stones and crack it
  across; you will see that it is not of the same stuff as those said
  rocks。  Step into the next field and see。  That rock is the common
  Snowdon slate; which we see everywhere。  The two shoulders of down;
  right and left; are slate; too; you can see that at a glance。  But
  the stones of the pebble bank are a close…grained; yellow…spotted
  rock。  They are Syenite; and (you may believe me or not; as you
  will) they were once upon a time in the condition of a hasty
  pudding heated to some 800 degrees of Fahrenheit; and in that
  condition shoved their way up somewhere or other through these
  slates。  But where? whence on earth did these Syenite pebbles come?
  Let us walk round to the cliff on the opposite side and see。  It is
  worth while; for even if my guess be wrong; there is good spinning
  with a brass minnow round the angles of the rocks。
  Now see。  Between the cliff…foot and the sloping down is a crack;
  ending in a gully; the nearer side is of slate; and the further
  side; the cliff itself; is … why; the whole cliff is composed of
  the very same stone as the pebble ridge。
  Now; my good friend; how did these pebbles get three hundred yards
  across the lake?  Hundreds of tons; some of them three feet long:
  who carried them across?  The old Cymry were not likely to amuse
  themselves by making such a breakwater up here in No…man's…land;
  two thousand feet above the sea:  but somebody or something must
  have carried them; for stones do not fly; nor swim either。
  Shot out of a volcano?  As you seem determined to have a prodigy;
  it may as well be a sufficiently huge one。
  Well … these stones lie altogether; and a volcano would have hardly
  made so compact a shot; not being in the habit of using Eley's wire
  cartridges。  Our next hope of a solution lies in John Jones; who
  carried up the coracle。  Hail him; and ask him what is on the top
  of that cliff 。 。 。 So; 〃Plainshe and pogshe; and another Llyn。〃
  Very good。  Now; does it not strike you that this whole cliff has a
  remarkably smooth and plastered look; like a hare's run up an
  earthbank?  And do you not see that it is polished thus only over
  the lake? that as soon as the cliff abuts on the downs right and
  left; it forms pinnacles; caves; broken angular boulders?  Syenite
  usually does so in our damp climate; from the 〃weathering〃 effect
  of frost and rain:  why has it not done so over the lake?  On that
  part something (giants perhaps) has been scrambling up or down on a
  very large scale; and so rubbed off every corner which was inclined
  to come away; till the solid core of the rock was bared。  And may
  not those mysterious giants have had a hand in carrying the stones
  across the lake? 。 。 。 Really; I am not altogether jesting。  Think
  a while what agent could possibly have produced either one or both
  of these effects?
  There is but one; and that; if you have been an Alpine traveller …
  much more if you have been a Chamois hunter … you have seen many a
  time (whether you knew it or not) at the very same work。
  Ice?  Yes; ice; Hrymir the frost…giant; and no one else。  And if
  you will look at the facts; you will see how ice may have done it。
  Our friend John Jones's report of plains and bogs and a lake above
  makes it quite possible that in the 〃Ice age〃 (Glacial Epoch; as
  the big…word…mongers call it) there was above that cliff a great
  neve; or snowfield; such as you have seen often in the Alps at the
  head of each glacier。  Over the face of this cliff a glacier has
  crawled down from that neve; polishing the face of the rock in its
  descent:  but the snow; having no large and deep outlet; has not
  slid down in a sufficient stream to reach the vale below; and form
  a glacier of the first order; and has therefore stopped short on
  the other side of the lake; as a glacier of the second order; which
  ends in an ice…cliff hanging hi