had　it　not　been　for　the　exceeding　sweetness　of　his　smile　and　eyes。
  The　Volcano　Bay　Ainos　are　far　more　hairy　than　the　mountain　Ainos；
  but　even　among　them　it　is　quite　common　to　see　men　not　more　so　than
  vigorous　Europeans；　and　I　think　that　the　hairiness　of　the　race　as　a
  distinctive　feature　has　been　much　exaggerated；　partly　by　the
  smooth…skinned　Japanese。
  The　ferry　scow　was　nearly　upset　by　our　four　horses　beginning　to
  fight。　　At　first　one　bit　the　shoulders　of　another；　then　the　one
  attacked　uttered　short；　sharp　squeals；　and　returned　the　attack　by
  striking　with　his　fore　feet；　and　then　there　was　a　general　melee　of
  striking　and　biting；　till　some　ugly　wounds　were　inflicted。　　I　have
  watched　fights　of　this　kind　on　a　large　scale　every　day　in　the
  corral。　　The　miseries　of　the　Yezo　horses　are　the　great　drawback　of
  Yezo　travelling。　　They　are　brutally　used；　and　are　covered　with
  awful　wounds　from　being　driven　at　a　fast　〃scramble〃　with　the　rude；
  ungirthed　pack…saddle　and　its　heavy　load　rolling　about　on　their
  backs；　and　they　are　beaten　unmercifully　over　their　eyes　and　ears
  with　heavy　sticks。　　Ito　has　been　barbarous　to　these　gentle；　little…
  prized　animals　ever　since　we　came　to　Yezo；　he　has　vexed　me　more　by
  this　than　by　anything　else；　especially　as　he　never　dared　even　to
  carry　a　switch　on　the　main　island；　either　from　fear　of　the　horses
  or　their　owners。　　To…day　he　was　beating　the　baggage　horse
  unmercifully；　when　I　rode　back　and　interfered　with　some　very　strong
  language；　saying；　〃You　are　a　bully；　and；　like　all　bullies；　a
  coward。〃　　Imagine　my　aggravation　when；　at　our　first　halt；　he
  brought　out　his　note…book；　as　usual；　and　quietly　asked　me　the
  meaning　of　the　words　〃bully〃　and　〃coward。〃　　It　was　perfectly
  impossible　to　explain　them；　so　I　said　a　bully　was　the　worst　name　I
  could　call　him；　and　that　a　coward　was　the　meanest　thing　a　man　could
  be。　　Then　the　provoking　boy　said；　〃Is　bully　a　worse　name　than
  devil？〃　　〃Yes；　far　worse；〃　I　said；　on　which　he　seemed　rather
  crestfallen；　and　he　has　not　beaten　his　horse　since；　in　my　sight　at
  least
  The　breaking…in　process　is　simply　breaking　the　spirit　by　an　hour　or
  two　of　such　atrocious　cruelty　as　I　saw　at　Shiraoi；　at　the　end　of
  which　the　horse；　covered　with　foam　and　blood；　and　bleeding　from
  mouth　and　nose；　falls　down　exhausted。　　Being　so　ill　used　they　have
  all　kinds　of　tricks；　such　as　lying　down　in　fords；　throwing
  themselves　down　head　foremost　and　rolling　over　pack　and　rider；
  bucking；　and　resisting　attempts　to　make　them　go　otherwise　than　in
  single　file。　　Instead　of　bits　they　have　bars　of　wood　on　each　side
  of　the　mouth；　secured　by　a　rope　round　the　nose　and　chin。　　When
  horses　which　have　been　broken　with　bits　gallop　they　put　up　their
  heads　till　the　nose　is　level　with　the　ears；　and　it　is　useless　to
  try　either　to　guide　or　check　them。　　They　are　always　wanting　to　join
  the　great　herds　on　the　hillside　or　sea…shore；　from　which　they　are
  only　driven　down　as　they　are　needed。　　In　every　Yezo　village　the
  first　sound　that　one　hears　at　break　of　day　is　the　gallop　of　forty
  or　fifty　horses；　pursued　by　an　Aino；　who　has　hunted　them　from　the
  hills。　　A　horse　is　worth　from　twenty…eight　shillings　upwards。　　They
  are　very　sure…footed　when　their　feet　are　not　sore；　and　cross　a
  stream　or　chasm　on　a　single　rickety　plank；　or　walk　on　a　narrow
  ledge　above　a　river　or　gulch　without　fear。　　They　are　barefooted；
  their　hoofs　are　very　hard；　and　I　am　glad　to　be　rid　of　the　perpetual
  tying　and　untying　and　replacing　of　the　straw　shoes　of　the　well…
  cared…for　horses　of　the　main　island。　　A　man　rides　with　them；　and
  for　a　man　and　three　horses　the　charge　is　only　sixpence　for　each　2。5
  miles。　　I　am　now　making　Ito　ride　in　front　of　me；　to　make　sure　that
  he　does　not　beat　or　otherwise　misuse　his　beast。
  After　crossing　the　Nopkobets；　from　which　the　fighting　horses　have
  led　me　to　make　so　long　a　digression；　we　went　right　up　into　the　〃bad
  mountains；〃　and　crossed　the　three　tremendous　passes　of　Lebungetoge。
  Except　by　saying　that　this　disused　bridle…track　is　impassable；
  people　have　scarcely　exaggerated　its　difficulties。　　One　horse　broke
  down　on　the　first　pass；　and　we　were　long　delayed　by　sending　the
  Aino　back　for　another。　　Possibly　these　extraordinary　passes　do　not
  exceed　1500　feet　in　height；　but　the　track　ascends　them　through　a
  dense　forest　with　most　extraordinary　abruptness；　to　descend　as
  abruptly；　to　rise　again　sometimes　by　a　series　of　nearly　washed…away
  zigzags；　at　others　by　a　straight；　ladder…like　ascent　deeply
  channelled；　the　bottom　of　the　trough　being　filled　with　rough
  stones；　large　and　small；　or　with　ledges　of　rock　with　an　entangled
  mass　of　branches　and　trailers　overhead；　which　render　it　necessary
  to　stoop　over　the　horse's　head　while　he　is　either　fumbling；
  stumbling；　or　tumbling　among　the　stones　in　a　gash　a　foot　wide；　or
  else　is　awkwardly　leaping　up　broken　rock　steps　nearly　the　height　of
  his　chest；　the　whole　performance　consisting　of　a　series　of
  scrambling　jerks　at　the　rate　of　a　mile　an　hour。
  In　one　of　the　worst　places　the　Aino's　horse；　which　was　just　in
  front　of　mine；　in　trying　to　scramble　up　a　nearly　breast…high　and
  much…worn　ledge；　fell　backwards；　nearly　overturning　my　horse；　the
  stretcher　poles；　which　formed　part　of　his　pack；　striking　me　so　hard
  above　my　ankle　that　for　some　minutes　afterwards　I　thought　the　bone
  was　broken。　　The　ankle　was　severely　cut　and　bruised；　and　bled　a
  good　deal；　and　I　was　knocked　out　of　the　saddle。　　Ito's　horse　fell
  three　times；　and　eventually　the　four　were　roped　together。　　Such　are
  some　of　the　divertissements　of　Yezo　travel。
  Ah；　but　it　was　glorious！　　The　views　are　most　magnificent。　　This　is
  really　Paradise。　　Everything　is　herehuge　headlands　magnificently
  timbered；　small；　deep　bays　into　which　the　great　green　waves　roll
  majestically；　great；　grey　cliffs；　too　perpendicular　for　even　the
  most　adventurous　trailer　to　find　root…hold；　bold　bluffs　and
  outlying　stacks　cedar…crested；　glimpses　of　bright；　blue　ocean
  dimpling　in　the　sunshine　or　tossing　up　wreaths　of　foam　among　ferns
  and　trailers；　and　inland　ranges　of　mountains　forest…covered；　with
  tremendous　gorges　between；　forest　filled；　where　wolf；　bear；　and
  deer　make　their　nearly　inaccessible　lairs；　and　outlying
  battlements；　and　ridges　of　grey　rock　with　hardly　six　feet　of　level
  on　their　sinuous　tops；　and　cedars　in　masses　giving　deep　shadow；　and
  sprays　of　scarlet　maple　or　festoons　of　a　crimson　vine　lighting　the
  gloom。　　The　inland　view　suggested　infinity。　　There　seemed　no　limit
  to　the　forest…covered　mountains　and　the　unlighted　ravines。　　The
  wealth　of　vegetation　was　equal　in　luxuriance　and　entanglement　to
  that　of　the　tropics；　primeval　vegetation；　on　which　the　lumberer's
  axe　has　never　rung。　　Trees　of　immense　height　and　girth；　specially
  the　beautiful　Salisburia　adiantifolia；　with　its　small　fan…shaped
  leaves；　all　matted　together　by　riotous　lianas；　rise　out　of　an
  impenetrable　undergrowth　of　the　dwarf；　dark…leaved　bamboo；　which；
  dwarf　as　it　is；　attains　a　height　of　seven　feet；　and　all　is　dark；
  solemn；　soundless；　the　haunt　of　wild　beasts；　and　of　butterflies　and
  dragonflies　of　the　most　brilliant　colours。　　There　was　light　without
  heat；　leaves　and　streams　sparkled；　and　there　was　nothing　of　the
  half…smothered　sensation　which　is　often　produced　by　the　choking
  greenery　of　the　main　island；　for　frequently；　far　below；　the　Pacific
  flashed　in　all　its　sunlit　beauty；　and　occasionally　we　came　down
  unexpectedly　on　a　little　cove　with　abrupt　cedar…crested　headlands
  and　stacks；　and　a　heavy　surf　rolling　in　with　the　deep　thunder　music
  which　alone　breaks　the　stillness　of　this　silent　land。
  There　was　one　tremendous　declivity　where　I　got　off　to　walk；　but
  found　it　too　steep　to　descend　on　foot　with　comfort。　　You　can
  imagine　how　steep　it　was；　when　I　tell　you　that　the　deep　groove
  being　too　narrow　for　me　to　get　to　the　side　of　my　horse；　I　dropped
  down　upon　him　from　behind；　between　his　tail　and　the　saddle；　and　so
  scrambled　on！
  The　sun　had　set　and　the　dew　was　falling　heavily　when　the　track
  dipped　over　the　brow　of　a　headland；　becoming　a　waterway　so　steep
  and　rough　that　I　could　not　get　down　it　on　foot　without　the
  assistance　of　my　hands；　and　terminating　on　a　lonely　little　bay　of
  great　beauty；　walled　in　by　impracticable…looking　headlands；　which
  was　the　entrance　to　an　equally　impracticable…looking；　densely…
  wooded　valley　running　up　among　densely…wooded　mountains。　　There　was
  a　margin　of　grey　sand　above　the　sea；　and　on　this　the　skeleton　of　an
  enormous　whale　was　bleaching。　　Two　or　three　large　〃dug…outs；〃　with
  planks　laced　with　stout　fibre　on　their　gunwales；　and　some　bleached
  drift…wood　lay　on　the　beach；　the　foreground　of　a　solitary；
  rambling；　dilapidated　grey　house；　bleached　like　all　else；　where
  three　Japanese　men　with　an　old　Aino　servant　live　to　look　after
  〃Government　interests；〃　whatever　these　may　be；　and　keep　rooms　and
  horses　for　Government　officialsa　great　boon　to　travellers　who；
  like　me；　are　belated　here。　　Only　one　person　has　passed　Lebunge　this
  year；　except　two　officials　and　a　policeman。
  There　was　still　a　red　glow　on　the　water；　and　one　horn　of　a　young
  moon　appeared　above　the　wooded　headland；　but　the　loneliness　and
  isolation　are　overpowering；　and　it　is　enough　to　produce　madness　to
  be　shut　in　for　ever　with　the　thund