第 2 节
作者:      更新:2022-06-15 11:21      字数:9315
  absurd cry of the Yellow Peril; fails to realise that Asia may also awaken to
  the cruel sense of   the White Disaster。            You may  laugh   at us   for having
  〃too much tea;〃 but may we not suspect that you of the West have 〃no tea〃
  in your constitution?
  Let us stop the continents from hurling epigrams at each                    other; and
  be sadder if not wiser by the mutual gain of half a hemisphere。                    We have
  developed along different lines; but             there is no reason why one   should
  not    supplement      the  other。   You    have   gained     expansion     at  the  cost   of
  restlessness; we have created a harmony which is weak against aggression。
  Will you believe it?the East is better off in some respects than the West!
  Strangely enough humanity has so far met in the tea…cup。 It is the only
  Asiatic   ceremonial   which   commands universal   esteem。               The   white   man
  has   scoffed   at   our   religion   and   our   morals;   but   has   accepted   the   brown
  beverage      without    hesitation。     The    afternoon     tea  is  now    an   important
  function in Western society。          In the delicate clatter of trays and          saucers;
  in the soft rustle of feminine hospitality; in the common catechism about
  cream and sugar; we know that the Worship of Tea is established beyond
  question。      The   philosophic   resignation of   the  guest   to   the   fate   awaiting
  him   in   the   dubious   decoction   proclaims   that   in   this   single   instance   the
  Oriental spirit reigns supreme。
  The earliest record of tea in European writing is said to be found in the
  statement of an Arabian traveller; that after the year 879 the main sources
  of revenue in Canton were the duties on salt and tea。                Marco Polo records
  the deposition of   a Chinese  minister of finance in 1285 for  his   arbitrary
  augmentation        of   the   tea…taxes。     It   was    at  the   period    of   the   great
  discoveries      that  the   European     people    began     to  know    more    about    the
  extreme      Orient。    At    the  end    of  the   sixteenth    century    the  Hollanders
  brought   the   news   that   a   pleasant   drink   was   made   in   the   East   from   the
  leaves   of   a   bush。   The   travellers   Giovanni   Batista   Ramusio   (1559);   L。
  Almeida (1576); Maffeno (1588); Tareira (1610); also mentioned tea。                        In
  the last…named year   ships of the   Dutch East India   Company brought   the
  first   tea   into   Europe。   It   was   known     in   France   in   1636;   and   reached
  Russia in 1638。        England      welcomed it in 1650 and spoke of it as 〃That
  excellent     and   by   all  physicians     approved      China    drink;   called   by   the
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  Chineans Tcha; and by other nations Tay; alias Tee。〃
  Like   all   good   things   of   the   world;   the   propaganda   of   Tea   met   with
  opposition。      Heretics like Henry Saville (1678) denounced drinking it as
  a   filthy  custom。     Jonas     Hanway   (Essay   on       Tea;   1756)    said  that   men
  seemed to lose their stature and comeliness; women their beauty through
  the    use of tea。     Its cost at the start (about fifteen or sixteen shillings a
  pound)      forbade    popular     consumption;      and    made    it  〃regalia    for  high
  treatments and entertainments; presents being made thereof to princes and
  grandees。〃       Yet    in  spite  of   such   drawbacks      tea…drinking     spread    with
  marvellous rapidity。        The coffee…houses of London in the early half of the
  eighteenth   century   became;         in   fact;  tea…houses;   the   resort  of   wits  like
  Addison   and   Steele;   who   beguiled        themselves   over   their   〃dish   of   tea。〃
  The beverage soon became a necessity of lifea taxable matter。                      We are
  reminded   in   this   connection   what   an   important   part   it   plays   in   modern
  history。    Colonial   America   resigned   herself   to   oppression   until   human
  endurance       gave   way   before    the   heavy   duties    laid  on   Tea。    American
  independence dates from the throwing of tea…chests into Boston harbour。
  There is a subtle charm in the taste of tea which makes it irresistible
  and capable of idealisation。          Western humourists were not slow to mingle
  the fragrance of their thought with             its aroma。     It has not the arrogance
  of wine; the self… consciousness of coffee; nor the simpering innocence of
  cocoa。      Already   in   1711;   says   the   Spectator:     〃I   would   therefore   in   a
  particular manner recommend these my speculations to all well…regulated
  families that set apart an hour every morning for tea; bread and butter; and
  would   earnestly   advise   them   for       their   good   to   order   this   paper   to   be
  punctually      served    up   and    to   be   looked    upon    as  a  part   of  the   tea…
  equipage。〃       Samuel      Johnson draws his own portrait as 〃a hardened and
  shameless tea   drinker; who   for   twenty years   diluted   his meals   with only
  the   infusion   of   the   fascinating   plant;   who   with   tea   amused   the   evening;
  with tea solaced the midnight; and with tea welcomed                  the morning。〃
  Charles Lamb; a professed devotee; sounded the true note of Teaism
  when   he   wrote   that   the   greatest   pleasure   he   knew   was   to   do   a   good
  action by stealth; and to have it found out by accident。                For Teaism is the
  art of concealing beauty that you may discover it; of suggesting what you
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  dare not reveal。       It is the noble secret of laughing at yourself; calmly yet
  thoroughly;      and   is  thus   humour     itself;the   smile   of   philosophy。      All
  genuine      humourists      may    in   this   sense    be   called   tea…philosophers;
  Thackeray;   for   instance;   and   of   course;   Shakespeare。        The   poets   of   the
  Decadence   (when   was         not   the  world   in   decadence?);      in   their  protests
  against   materialism;   have;   to   a   certain   extent;   also   opened   the   way   to
  Teaism。       Perhaps      nowadays      it  is  our   demure     contemplation       of   the
  Imperfect that the West and the East can meet in mutual consolation。
  The   Taoists   relate   that   at   the   great   beginning   of   the   No…Beginning;
  Spirit and Matter met in mortal combat。               At last the Yellow Emperor; the
  Sun   of   Heaven;   triumphed   over   Shuhyung;   the   demon   of   darkness   and
  earth。     The   Titan;   in   his   death   agony;   struck   his   head   against   the   solar
  vault and shivered the blue dome of jade into fragments。                    The stars lost
  their nests; the moon wandered aimlessly among the wild chasms of the
  night。    In despair the Yellow Emperor sought far and wide for the repairer
  of the Heavens。        He had not to search in vain。           Out of the      Eastern sea
  rose    a   queen;    the   divine    Niuka;     horn…crowned       and     dragon…tailed;
  resplendent in her armor of fire。            She welded the five…coloured rainbow
  in   her   magic   cauldron   and   rebuilt   the   Chinese   sky。    But   it   is   told   that
  Niuka     forgot   to  fill  two   tiny   crevices     in  the  blue   firmament。      Thus
  began the dualism of lovetwo souls rolling through space and never at
  rest   until   they   join   together   to   complete   the   universe。   Everyone   has   to
  build anew his sky of hope and peace。
  The heaven of modern humanity is indeed shattered in the Cyclopean
  struggle for   wealth   and power。         The   world is groping in the   shadow  of
  egotism and vulgarity。          Knowledge is bought through a bad conscience;
  benevolence practiced for the sake of utility。             The East and the West; like
  two dragons tossed in a sea of ferment; in vain strive to regain the jewel of
  life。   We need a Niuka again to repair the grand devastation; we await the
  great Avatar。      Meanwhile; let us have a sip of tea。 The afternoon glow is
  brightening      the  bamboos;   the     fountains   are    bubbling   with     delight;   the
  soughing of the pines is heard in our kettle。            Let us dream of evanescence;
  and linger in the beautiful foolishness of things。
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  II。 The Schools of Tea。